Signal Hill offers panoramic views of Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and Robben Island. Photo / Alexia Santamaria
Signal Hill offers panoramic views of Table Mountain, Lion’s Head and Robben Island. Photo / Alexia Santamaria
A penguin documentary led to a spontaneous trip – but nothing prepared Alexia Santamaria for Cape Town’s wild coastlines, cable car views and vintage sidecar rides with a dog named Brody
On a bored Tuesday night, bereft after having binged through all my favourite Netflix shows, I came across a quirky-looking series called Penguin Town. Looking for some light relief from crime dramas, I mindlessly clicked on it and discovered a hilarious – and at times, quite frankly, stressful – documentary on the lives of the penguins who have made Boulders Beach their home. It never occurred to me that six months later, I might actually be at that very location, kayaking the clear waters of Cape Town and seeing these unlikely TV stars (well, some of their friends, at least) for real.
I’m not actually sure what I expected from a visit to Cape Town, but when you grow up in Tāmaki Makaurau, you kind of think you know all about harbour cities – indulging in seafood by the water, never being far from a stunning shoreline, the sight of bobbing sailboats a daily backdrop. But Cape Town takes this experience to a whole other level – the sea views are more expansive, the white sands seemingly straight out of a travel brochure, and a coastline that regularly renders you speechless. Unlike Jo’burg’s artsy, cool, edgy vibe, Cape Town is an unashamed beauty queen, mesmerising everyone she shines her light on.
We started our Viva Expeditions trip on a blue-sky day, kayaking with the penguins – well, not with them, but respectfully close to them. The team at Kayak Adventures were so patient and gentle, guiding us through the turquoise waters of False Bay and giving us so much information not only on these little black and white cuties, but the whole marine environment, its challenges and what’s being done to protect it. Watching these distinctly marked African penguins preening themselves on the rocks and bobbing together in “rafts” at sea was such a treat. And yes, they looked exactly like they did in Penguin Town. Even better, parts of the incredibly popular My Octopus Teacher were filmed nearby.
From penguins to panoramic peaks, this Cape Town trip packs adventure into every day. Photo / Alexia Santamaria
After paddling parallel to the coastline, we eventually turned towards the shore and couldn’t resist stripping down to our togs for a quick dip. The water was so clear and the weather so perfect, it was hard to imagine how this day could get any more magical. On the paddle back to where we started, we spotted seals sunning themselves on the rocks; it seemed like everyone was living their best life in Cape Town that day.
African penguins at Boulders Beach. Photo / Alexia Santamaria.
Day two
Day two began with a walk led by travel writer, hiking guide and seemingly inexhaustible fountain of knowledge, Matthew Sterne, from Natural Wanders. Meeting at a kramat on Signal Hill, we found ourselves looking out over the iconic Lion’s Head, Table Mountain, City Bowl and Robben Island within minutes at our first stop. It felt slightly surreal to be gazing upon the infamous Robben Island, a name I had heard so much about during – and after – Mandela’s long imprisonment there.
Cape Town’s coastline, mountains and markets make for a trip to remember. Photo / Alex Santamaria
As we walked, we heard fascinating tales of the city’s history, admired wild proteas and descended into some much-appreciated shady forest before emerging at Camps Bay beach, where white sands, turquoise seas and the refreshment table of our dreams awaited. Heaving with samoosas, local cheese, fruit, bubbles and sparkling Rooibos tea, it was everything an overheated, tired bunch of walkers could want. Even the snacks had a story: the woman who makes the samoosas became something of a media sensation after putting her children through school from sales of these delicious morsels, all while battling cancer. After fuelling up, we returned to the lighthouse on e-scooters. With the weather still on our side, it was exhilarating to whoosh our way down the promenade with Cape Town on one side and the wild blue ocean on the other, passing locals eating their ice creams, enjoying the green spaces and strolling around the waterfront.
The snacks on the Camps Bay hike included samoosas. Photo / Alexia Santamaria
Day three
Our final day brought more fun in the sun, but with slightly less exertion, as we glided easily and effortlessly by cable car to the top of Cape Town’s crown jewel – Table Mountain. This towering monolith is a constant presence in the city, standing sentinel over the streets below. By day, it commands the skyline; by night, bathed in golden light (yes, they illuminate one whole side), it takes on an almost mystical quality. But nothing could have prepared us for the scale of the views from the top – dramatic grey outcrops in the foreground giving way to turquoise coastline below. At moments, the beaches could have been Australia; at others, there was a flash of the Côte d’Azur. It would have felt criminal not to grab a table at one of the bars to enjoy an Aperol Spritz with one of the best views in the world – what’s a girl to do? (there’s a great 20-minute loop away from the hospitality outlets, or other walks and hikes ranging from 45 minutes to three hours if you’re feeling energetic).
Just when it felt we’d reached the peak of our trip, we embarked on what would end up being an equally mind-blowing activity with Cape Sidecar Adventures. It’s hard to find words to do this experience justice, as it’s such a unique way to see the coastline that winds its way along the Cape Peninsula. One moment we were cruising the streets of Cape Town, the next on the open road with towering cliffs on one side and sparkling sea on the other. Spellbinding doesn’t even begin to cover it. But it wasn’t just the views – using this particular mode of transport is like stepping into a vintage postcard, wind in your hair and the roar of a classic motorbike in your ears. Seated snugly in these restored World War II-era sidecars, we rumbled through some of Cape Town’s most striking landscapes – our jaws almost permanently on the ground. The icing on the cake was undoubtedly Brody, the dog, another Cape Town animal living his best life as he rides next to the owner on daily sidecar trips.
Cape Town’s sidecar tours use vintage World War II-era motorcycles Photo / Alexia Santamaria
It’s not hard to see why Cape Town has been referred to as the most beautiful city in the world more than once. With its Mediterranean-esque vibe, vibrant culinary scene, fascinating Cape Dutch architecture, stunning waterfront, eclectic neighbourhoods, boutique shops, world-class museums and the winelands right on its doorstep, Cape Town isn’t just a city – it’s a whole package. Whether you’re drawn by the jaw-dropping scenery and outdoor activities or a more city-side adventure, Cape Town will find a permanent place in your soul.
