Thinking big on the field of dreams

The Imperial Lift at Breckenridge.

The jet-set fly to Colorado's flash resorts for good reason - they possess all that skiing has to offer, plus the apres ski trimmings.

But Colorado has 22 more ski resorts - and Americans don't like to do it tough, so they're pretty well-trimmed too.

On-field, it was impossible to fault the resorts I visited, while the off-field accommodation, eateries and apres ski were priced to suit the pockets of a New Zealand family using the Pacific peso.

Competition is a reality in the United States, and services that don't make the benchmark won't survive.

Each of these resorts had much in common, and a long list of things to recommend them.

They are all very large by New Zealand standards. Each has 20 to 25 lifts, nearly all gondolas or detachable four or six-seaters. The trails are long with 1000m vertical drops giving runs up to 8km.

The scenery is fabulous - the Rocky Mountains covered with fir trees, spruce or Colorado's famous aspens.

Trails are clearly marked, from the gentle greens to the double black diamonds for extremist nutters. Winter Park's Outhouse is so named because, according to a guide, "It's so scary, by the time you get to the bottom you need a change of underwear." I didn't try.

Americans are into moguls, and most black runs are dominated by "bumps" - often VW Beetle-sized.

Snowboarders have terrain parks - big ones. Americans love things to be bigger than Texas and the jump mounds are built into mini-mountains. Each field tries to outdo the other with its assortment of rails and jumps for snowboarders to break bones on. (When you buy your lift tickets, signs warn that Colorado law protects skifield operators from negligence suits.)

At Breckenridge, boarders and skiers are required to pass a quick test to enter the terrain parks. However, there are mini terrain parks for beginners and the less adventurous to try out. It's typical of the detail the operators go to ensure everybody has a good and safe time.

Oh, and did I mention the snow? Colorado gets an average of around 9m of snow a year.

I visited in early April and it snowed several days of the nine I was there.

Although it was apparently the best snow in 20 years, snow cover is rarely a problem in Colorado after October. The fields I visited only close in mid-April to allow elk and moose migration to proceed unperturbed.

And when it snows, you rarely need to stop skiing - it's lovely, light fluffy stuff that doesn't soak you and it's seldom accompanied by wind or white-out - but it's a good idea to bring good goggles.

The trails are as groomed as a dowager and, if you get the legendary powder, making your own tracks through the trees is as good as it gets.

There was an almost total absence of lift queues during my visit just after the United States' spring school holidays. These fields each cater for 15,000 visitors, but because of the superb lift facilities, little time is wasted queuing.

April was also a good time weather-wise. My previous US skiing experience had been December to February and it can be face-numbingly cold. My first two days this visit were as warm as anything I have experienced on New Zealand fields, with a showy few down to togs.

But you must remember these fields are higher than 2500m at their base, and at the top lifts are as high as Mt Cook at 3600m.

Nausea, mountain sickness, or even occasionally pulmonary oedema (fluid in the lungs), can occur. I had the recommended couple of days acclimatising in mile-high (1600m) Denver, and suffered no altitude effects.

Even in April, it can get mighty cold, so wear many layers. You have to give these mountains respect, my Winter Park host Darcy Morse advised.

I loved the attention to detail - sniffle stations (tissue dispensers) beside lift lines, and benches made from old snowboards for snowboarders to buckle up at the top of lifts.

A surprise pleasure was the hosting system run by volunteers, mostly oldies, who show newcomers around. In my case the Eskimo Club's John Nelson found my Australian journalist companion and me looking a little lost, and hooked up with us.

John, a youthful 60-something year-old, who was no slouch as a skier, whizzed over as much of Winter Park as he could in two hours.

He also educated us on everything from the damage global warming was doing to the spruce and fir forests due to bugs and beetles surviving the less-cold winters, to domestic politics.

These fields are making big efforts to market themselves as family affairs, and they offer heaps of alternative activities - cross-country skiing, snowcat tours, snow-shoeing (hiking in boots like tennis rackets) and tubing.

I tried the US$20 ($30.50) thrill ride at Breckenridge. The Olympic-sized toboggan track was as fun and scary as a Disneyland rollercoaster.

On-mountain eateries are mostly self-serve tray affairs dominated by the ubiquitous hamburger and chips. But being America, you can also go upmarket, for a price.

Each resort has a range of one- to five-star restaurants. There are lots of reasonably priced pizza, Mexican, bar and grill and burger style eateries. Americans restaurants still super-size customers and often a main (deceivingly called an entree) is enough for two.

Eating highlight for me was Keystone's Ski Tip Lodge where a set menu costs US$69 plus wine plus a 6.4 per cent state tax plus tip. This was one of the few meals where servings were reasonably-sized - only this time there were four courses.

Another pleasure of these resorts is that the accommodation is often close to, or on, the field. At both Winter Park and Keystone, I stayed in condominium-style apartments metres from the base lifts.

The two-roomed units were well-equipped for four and included a gas fireplace. Contrary to the myth that Americans don't eat in, most guests stocked up on groceries to take advantage of the excellent kitchens in each condo.

Best of all, each complex had a couple of big outdoor spa pools set in the snow. What a great way to let your tired bones recuperate.

Some of the younger generation might find both Winter Park and Keystone a bit on the quiet side for night life, but like most ski-field villages, there are always a few rowdy, lively haunts. Breckenridge is larger and had more on offer, although its oldie-worldie centre is a bit twee.

Checklist

Getting there
Go Holidays specialises in ski tour packages to Colorado. Seven-night packages start from $3329 a person and include return airfares Auckland-Denver flying United Airlines. Airline surcharges, insurance levies and taxes, New Zealand departure fees, return airport transfers, seven-nights' accommodation and six-day lift passes are included in the package.

Contact Go Holidays on 0800 846-754 or goski@gogo.co.nz.

Skiing
Information on Colorado skifields is available on the links below.

*Simon Louisson travelled to Colorado courtesy of United Airlines and Go Holidays and was hosted by Ski Colorado