Huon Valley was named one of the best places to go in Oceania for 2024 by Conde Nast Traveler. Photo / 123rf
A four-day Tasmanian road trip gives travellers a good taste of what’s on offer outside of Hobart, at Tassie’s newest hotspot, Huon Valley, writes Ivy Carruth.
Only 45 minutes south of the scuttle and scurry of Hobart, you’ll find everything from underground caves with stalagmites the size of elephants, to cantilevered catwalks that peer into the sun-dappled forest (way) below. For water lovers, there’s a lot of that, too; fresh and clean and maybe containing even a platypus or two.
We’re on the Huon highway, twisting and turning on country roads as we drink in the views from the car. We’ve hired a vehicle in Hobart, a van with lots of room; it might even allow for a catnap or two. The view outside our window bears a ridiculous charisma — the charm is off the charts. Perhaps that’s why it was named by the behemoth US travel publication, Conde Nast Traveller, as one of the best places to go in Oceania for 2024. That’s no small feat.
The first Europeans, the French, arrived in the Huon Valley about 1792, though it was not settled until 1840 when apple growing, for which it was once famous, became its main industry. Place names retain remnants of the Gallic influence, though any Francophile would shudder at the way Antipodean tongues pronounce them; “Hewin” versus “ooowanh”, “cygnet” versus “seenya”.
Willie Smith’s Apple Shed, Grove
Stop in for a paddle of alcoholic (or non-) apple ciders and a peek at memorabilia from the glory days of appledom. Our favourite cider? The “wild”, funky and complicated after being left to ferment and process naturally at the whims of Mother Nature right there in the fields. Peckish? Grab a gourmet lunch, the rabbit pot pie is divine.
READ MORE: What it’s like on Tasmania’s Freycinet Experience eco walk
The Lost Captain Taphouse, Cygnet
Casual but upmarket, the local grilled fish and gnocchi are standouts. Dine under a covered tented structure or beneath the sprawling branches of the shade-making tree out front; both are close enough to the river that you can hear it burbling.
Cinnamon and Cherry, Franklin
Turkish and Tassie come together at this buzzy cafe where I recommend you look at everything available before committing; the most difficult part will be choosing, so maybe something for the road? The food is as colourful and fresh as it is delicious with fresh in-season produce. The Turkish coffee is life.
Osteria @ Petty Sessions, Franklin
What’s exceptional about this authentic Italian restaurant run by a local husband-and-wife team is the lengths to which they go to source everything locally. The proof, as they say, is in the pudding. And the tomatoes, and the beef, and the flour … Don’t leave without having the caprese salad.
River Run Lodges, Dover
Summer camp turned hipster holiday hotspot, enjoy rustic dinners on the lawn or in the intimate timber restaurant next to the fire. This will take you back to your childhood in the best way.
Kiln, Ranelagh
More than a creative meal, though it certainly is that, the Kiln is a picturesque venue with its own little boutique next door. Seasonally driven menus and the nook-and-cranny seating keep residents coming back to this restored oast (a kiln for drying hops) house.
Take in the Lavender Goat Farm, Petcheys Bay
Ellen, whipsmart ex-lawyer turned Earth Mother cum lavender whisperer, welcomes guests to explore her amethystine crops by appointment, usually in group activities like yoga, or the one we enjoyed — vapour distilling. After snipping fresh blooms, stuff them into a copper still to be turned into organic scented water, ideal for a pillow spray, facial refresher or to keep in your car during traffic; use liberally. And get a goat selfie with Glenda, she’s a pro.
Kayak with Esperance Adventures, Franklin
Get up with the roosters and glide through the tannin-rich waters around South Egg Island. Matt, the owner, knows all there is about this hushed sanctuary and can’t wait to fill you in. Morning tea at the halfway point consists of the best brownie I have ever eaten in my life. Make sure you get one. Or five.
Trek the Tahune Airwalk, Geeveston
Wheelchair accessible and dog friendly, this elevated path sits 30m above the loamy rainforest floor and concludes with a cantilevered viewing deck almost twice that above the Huon River. All in, allow 50 minutes. Don’t miss the cable-controlled hang-glider.
Go subterranean at Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs, Hastings
Newdegate is the largest dolomite cave open to visitors in Australia, with staggering stalactites that still drip after millenniums. Step inside to see a world of topsy-turvy where the ceilings resemble the sea floor, nature repeating herself for effect.
Travel to the End of the Road, Cockle Creek
It’s the farthest south one can go in Australia, accessed through Cockle Creek at Southwest National Park. The walk begins on flat beach before turning more challenging along boulders and lichen-crusted crag. Take a beanie for the wind, then stand and soak it all in.
Sweat it out with Elsewhere Sauna, Mobile
The brainchild of Bellingen-born Selena de Carvalho, an artist with a penchant for wellness, this (typically) beachfront mobile sauna is part relaxation and part mind over matter. Selena leads guests through a holistic practice of sauna, natural scrubs and sea. After spending time inside the 85-degree remodelled trailer (trust me, it’s stunning) and sweating out the toxins, a bracing Tasmanian sea dip is just the thing to get your circulation going and your immune system boosted.
The Old Bank, Cygnet
For a peaceful sleep close to the centre of town, the comfortable Old Bank can’t be beaten. There are only three rooms, and breakfast is included in the cafe downstairs. Easily walk to everything from here.
The Cape House, Dover
Set smack on the peak of the peninsula, the Cape House is a turn-of-the-century renovated farmhouse with three bedrooms, 360-degree views across the D’Entrecasteaux Channel and set on acreage to ensure you see no one else your entire time there (pademelons excepted).
Alto Franklin, Franklin
Like a proud peacock, Alto sits atop Periot’s Rise to command a view of the valley and the waterways beyond. To the north is the peak of Sleeping Beauty, but you may not want to leave the luxe interiors, especially if you get the main. Animal lovers will love the blacknose sheep and the two resident Highland cows.
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Hobart International Airport with one stopover with Air NZ, Jetstar and Qantas.
DETAILS
Viking’s cruise brings Europe to your balcony..