There is one thought stuck in my mind as I stare at slick fins rippling through the dark ocean: this is utterly insane. Before I know it, our guide jumps in and urges me to follow. Despite my best instincts, I jump in and am soon face to face with
The week I swam with giants and walked with dragons
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Aqu Blue sailing around Komodo National Park. Photo / Aqua Expeditions
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Joined by roughly 30 Indonesian crew and a former British national cruise director, we set sail from Flores to Bali and spend most of our time cruising around Komodo National Park. Considering its breathtaking beauty and vibrant marine life, it’s no surprise.
Made up of three large islands (Komodo, Padar and Rinca) and 26 smaller ones, the national park covers 1733sq km and was founded in 1980 to protect the famous Komodo dragon, the world’s largest lizard.
However, the most exciting parts are underwater, with amazing reef ecosystems and breathtaking coral.
Almost every day on Aqua Blu includes snorkelling, and every time it feels like entering another world. Indonesia hosts unparalleled biodiversity in its waters, with nearly 600 different types of corals and over 2000 species of reef fish. Every 60-minute snorkel, I enter a meditative state unlike anything I’ve experienced, captivated by the vivid colours and huge variety of fish and coral. Each time, there is a new experience, from finding Nemo and Dory to cruising around with turtles and watching a three-metre moray eel – with apprehension.
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Trips on to land vary drastically, and it’s near impossible to pick a favourite, although Pink Beach is a highlight, with rose-coloured shores set against vivid blue ocean. While the spot is understandably popular among tourists, Aqua Blu knew to time our visit for the late afternoon when all other visitors had left and the beach was ours to enjoy alone.
Friendly wild pigs wander the shore, gladly taking any leftovers from our coconut drinks, while the locals sell handcrafted goods. The Aqua Blu team set up our private beach club, topped with food, drinks and an inflatable bull for some fun.
One of the most thrilling days is spent on Rinca Island for a Komodo dragon expedition. Obsessed with these lizards since childhood, I had high expectations and I wasn’t disappointed.
On arrival, we are greeted by a gigantic statue of two Komodo dragons battling on the wharf, marking the entrance to the national park. It isn’t long before we can see multiple dragons strolling around on the dried riverbed. Moments later, park rangers separate us into small groups and, armed with a forked stick, guide us deeper into the wilderness for a closer look. At one point, we encounter a huge dragon lounging across the path, practically posing for photos. A short summit track leads us to the top of the island, and we’re treated to a panoramic view of the rugged jungle and bay beyond; a perfect end to this Jurassic adventure.
Days later, we find ourselves on the remote Moyo Island. Hopping in a 4WD, we go off the beaten track (literally) to reach a hidden waterfall tucked away in the jungle. It was a sight to behold, and we were lucky enough to enjoy a swim, the cool clear water a relief from the heat.
However, it wasn’t just the scenery that made Moyo special; it was the people. Coming down from the waterfall, we were greeted by the village with freshly cut coconuts and invited to watch traditional dances and martial arts demonstrations by the village children and elders.
Despite the packed itinerary, there is still plenty of time to rest and recharge, whether you want to soak in the hot tub, get a masssage, grab a drink from the bar or simply lie on a sunbed enjoying the view. Thanks to the small group, we bond quickly, sharing stories recounting the day and playing board games. Each night, we assemble at the top of the ship for drinks, nibbles and a glorious sunset.
Speaking of nibbles, aside from the sights and experiences, the other star feature of the trip is the food. The menu is designed by Australian chef Benjamin Cross and takes inspiration from Indonesia’s fabled spice trade route, featuring tasty dishes ranging from beautiful fresh snapper ceviche to a Tomato Garamasala Hotpot, to my personal favourite, the Beef Rendang.
From day one, the service never falters. Every crew member is attentive and clearly passionate about their homeland, whether they are running an educational seminar during the sailing about Indonesian culture, or simply offering information during an excursion. While education isn’t always a feature of leisure travel, it’s something that undeniably enriches your understanding and respect for a destination.
After a whirlwind week, I find it difficult to step off Aqua Blu. Leaving the barefoot, seafaring lifestyle behind is tough, but it introduced me to experiences and people that I won’t forget anytime soon.
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Checklist
Indonesia
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Labuan Bajo with one stopover in Denpasar.
DETAILS
Bali to Komodo Luxury Cruises | Aqua Expeditions
New Zealand Herald Travel sailed as a guest courtesy of Aqua Expeditions.
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