The Scottish Highlands covers nearly 10,000 square miles. Photo / 123rf
Rugged scenery, one-track roads and small towns - Kiwis will be right at home in the Scottish Highlands, but it never harms to read the complete pre-travel guide, writes Ailsa Sheldon
Towering mountains swirled in cloud, deep cold lochs, perhaps a solitary bagpiper on a craggy castle rampart. Romantic impressions of the Scottish Highlands make it a must-visit for many visitors to the UK, it’s no wonder it was named one of National Geographic’s Best of the World destinations for 2023.
The Scottish Highlands is the vast area to the north and west of the ancient geological Highland Boundary fault. The mountain ranges begin, and towns and villages get smaller and more remote. The Scottish Highlands covers nearly 26,000sq km with a population of only 235,000, making it one of the least populous areas in Europe. With an area this large, planning a trip can seem daunting but it doesn’t need to be. Here’s what you need to know to make the most of your visit, however long you’ve got.
When to travel
There’s no bad time of year to visit and hotels and rural restaurants are increasingly open year-round; a big change from even five years ago. It’s still sensible to call ahead and make sure. Spring and autumn often get the best weather and there are far fewer organised tours to contend with as an independent traveller. In summer you’ll enjoy long light evenings and even warm beach days. However, you may encounter the notorious midges (small biting insects) so pack some repellent and close your windows at dusk.
Weather
You’ll soon discover that in the Highlands the most common weather forecast is, “sunshine and showers”. Year-round the weather in Scotland is changeable, usually changing multiple times a day. Regardless of season, always have a waterproof jacket and sturdy waterproof shoes, but pack your sunglasses too. At the height of summer, it’s light until late at night, and in winter the low sun can catch you out, especially when you’re driving.
Local culture
Scottish people are warm and hospitable, and nowhere is this more evident than in the Highlands. Traditional music forms the heart of the social scene across the generations. Look out for posters advertising a ceilidh - a night of music and dancing for a brilliant night out. Ask in hotels and restaurants about where to find live music locally.
Where to stay
There is no shortage of gorgeous accommodation across the region, from cottages to castles, but booking in advance is a must. The Visit Scotland website has a useful database for finding the right place for you. If you’re on a budget, check out the network of brilliant independent youth hostels. Book a converted railway carriage in Glenfinnan, or enjoy live music at The Ceilidh Place bunkhouse in Ullapool. For hotels, staying at Mingary Castle on the Ardnamurchan peninsula is an unforgettable experience. I also like The Lime Tree Hotel in Fort William and Kilcamb Lodge in Strontian, but ultimately, you’re spoiled for choice.
Getting around
Inverness is the only city in the Highlands (population 46,870) and it’s known as The Gateway to the Highlands. The best way to get here is by the Caledonian Sleeper, an overnight sleeper train from London, though you can also fly or drive. From here, head west to explore more.
In rural Scotland using public transport requires advance planning. While even the smallest villages are usually served by buses, they can be infrequent and don’t allow you to stop when the view demands a photograph. Use the Stagecoach website to find bus timetables, or ScotRail for trains.
Hiring a car allows you to access more remote parts of the Scottish Highlands on your own timetable. You’ll notice that road signs are in both English and Gaelic- the traditional language of this part of Scotland. Keep an eye out for animals too - sheep graze on the roadside, and you don’t want to hit a red deer in the dark - so take it slow.
When planning a driving route, over-estimate the time you will need. Many rural communities are accessible only by a single-track road and these narrow winding roads can’t be driven at speed. To avoid causing frustration on the roads, use passing places both for pulling in to let both oncoming traffic and faster vehicles behind you pass. Never use passing places to park.
Plan your fuel stop so you don’t get caught out miles from a petrol station.
Best for food and drink
With hundreds of kilometres of rugged coastline and white beaches, it’s no surprise that the west coast is a great place to enjoy fresh seafood. In Fort William, book a table at red-roofed Crannog on the town pier and order mussels straight from the loch, or langoustine from nearby Mallaig. In Oban, try Ee-usk, or the green-roofed seafood shack beside the ferry terminal. Tuck into fish and chips in Ullapool from The Seaforth or The Seafood Shack, or for a real treat book a table at The Dipping Lugger on the waterfront.
If you nip over the bridge to the Isle of Skye (from Kyle of Lochalsh) or the ferry from Mallaig, you’ll have many excellent restaurants to choose from. Check out Kinloch Lodge, The Three Chimneys and Edinbane Lodge.
Best for whisky
Whether you are a whisky expert or just whisky curious, a visit to a distillery is a must. It’s also a perfect wet-weather option.
Oban Distillery was established in 1794 and was built before the town itself. With only two pot stills, it’s one of Scotland’s smallest distilleries and a great one to visit to learn about how whisky is made, and of course sample a few drams. The single malt combines the smoke of island whiskies with the sweetness of Highland malts: a great all-rounder.
From here, whisky lovers may want to add a trip to the island of Islay to their itineraries - the island is home to nine working distilleries. Today across The Scottish Highlands there are also distilleries making rum, gin, and even absinthe, and plenty of breweries too. Pubs and restaurants are usually great advocates for other small businesses so make sure to ask what you can sample that’s made locally.
Best for outdoor activities
It’s no surprise that this mountainous region is brilliant for outdoor activities. If this is your focus, base yourself in Fort William, “the Outdoor capital of the UK”. In this small town, you’ll find instructors offering everything from canyoning and paddleboarding to hill walking and winter ice climbing - and the most beautiful outdoor playground to explore. The rugged mountains of Glencoe are easily accessible from here, as is Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK. Around 130,000 people climb Ben Nevis every year. There’s a path so a guide isn’t required, but good weather, proper equipment and paying close attention to the route is essential. For winter mountaineering, a qualified local guide is needed - look at the AMI (Association of Mountaineering Instructors) to find one. Fort William is a great base for lower-level walking too; a wonderful way to see the scenery.
Best for getting away from it all
The Ardnamurchan peninsula is beautiful and under-visited. Many are deterred because access is by a small ferry or a long single-track road. However, those that visit will be rewarded by rugged castles, beautiful empty beaches and miles of windswept coastline all to yourself.
GETTING THERE
Multiple airlines including Air New Zealand fly from Auckland to Edinburgh with two stopovers. Alternatively, fly into London with one stopover and then catch a train, plane or hire a car to Inverness.
DETAILS
From skipping the queues to planning your parade spot, here's all you need to know.