NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

The Ghan: A journey to Australia's heart

By Stephanie Flack
AAP·
12 Jun, 2012 02:00 AM4 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

The Ghan runs a service between Darwin and Adelaide and hosts an annual Anzac-themed tribute tour. Photo / AAP Photo / AAP

The Ghan runs a service between Darwin and Adelaide and hosts an annual Anzac-themed tribute tour. Photo / AAP Photo / AAP

Stephanie Flack joins a special Anzac tribute rail journey from Darwin to Adelaide.

The 750-metre 31-carriage-long train has stopped, temporarily, on a level crossing in Adelaide River giving the locals a taste of city style peak hour traffic.

We were in Adelaide River - a tiny town 113 kilometres south of Darwin on board the legendary Australian train, The Ghan.

We were there to visit the Adelaide River War Cemetery, the final resting place for 434 men and women who died when war came to the Territory, and Darwin, 70 years ago.

For those riding The Ghan on this trip, it was our first opportunity to pay our respects as part of a four-day Anzac themed tribute tour, making our way from Darwin to Adelaide.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

As dusk settled we boarded the train to head to our next destination, Katherine.

The small glow of a bonfire in a park near the rail line was the sign of one last activity for the day as we rolled into Katherine. A group of young Aboriginal men were eagerly waiting and happily danced right up to our cameras, holding poses, as embers from the fire flickered in the background.

I'm not a morning person so I knew I had absolutely no reason to complain when my carriage host Brendan delivered a coffee to my cabin door at 5am on Anzac Day.

Nearly 300 people had gathered in a small park around a cenotaph on a cool autumnal morning for the commemoration. A small choir sang Lest We Forget, and as the Last Post was played, the silence was punctuated by the roar and bellow of the passing trucks and road trains.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Next stop was the Nitmiluk National Park, the site of Katherine Gorge, in the land of the Jawoyn people. Nitmi is the Jawoyn word for "cicada" and the Jawoyn say Nabilil, a major dreaming figure, gave the gorge the name of Nitmiluk because he could hear the "Nit Nit Nit" song of the cicada when he travelled through the country.

Our young Aboriginal guide told us that they believe Bolung, the Rainbow Serpent, still inhabits the deep pools of the second Gorge at Nitmiluk and care must be taken not to disturb him.

As we took a boat ride along one of the gorges, rain gently patterned the calm waters and the occasional crocodile periscoped to the surface to watch our slow progress between the high sandstone walls.

Back on the Ghan, in the vintage-style dining car of the Queen Adelaide Restaurant, we engaged in lively conversations as our cutlery jingled and plates clinked, while carefully managing the soup on a slightly bumpy ride.

Discover more

Travel

Australia: White linen service in the red centre

04 Aug 04:00 PM
Travel

Adelaide to Melbourne: A cross-country winner

01 Jun 05:30 PM
Travel

Flinders Ranges: Luxury under the stars

10 Apr 05:30 PM
Travel

Darwin: Kicking back in the Northern Territory

02 May 03:30 AM

From a tiny kitchen on board, chefs produced fresh three-course meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

As night fell, the gliding motion of the train across the undulating tracks rocked us to sleep.

A change of pace came on the third day of our trip when we reached Alice Springs and took a trail ride through the White Gums Station. The trail gave us everything we could have wanted from the experience - wallaby spotting, an ochre clay track, some greenery here and there, a clear blue sky and - in the distance - the Macdonnell Ranges provided the backdrop. Despite the ongoing attempts by flies to photo-bomb my shots, my camera happily produced those iconic outback snaps that I'd been hoping for.

We had only a few hours in Alice Spring before we were due back on board to resume the journey to our next stop, Port Augusta.

Once there, we had one final excursion - a journey back to the 1930s on a railway known as the Pichi Richi. The timber-bodied carriages are pulled by a steam locomotive on a narrow gauge track and passed through white salt plains and the Flinders Ranges on our way to Quorn.

On board the Pichi Richi I spoke with some of the veterans.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"For the sad that goes on with how we came to have Anzac Day, there's a nice side to go with it, the camaraderie," said Jackie, a veteran who served in Bougainville with the Navy.

The veterans I spoke with all agreed that their time on The Ghan Anzac tribute journey renewed their sense of unity.

It was a time to reflect on the unique bonds that are built between service veterans, however different their experiences.


Getting There
Fly there with Air New Zealand Book now

Find out more at Australia.com

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Travel news

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM

This suburb is skipped in favour of flashier spots, but shouldn't be discounted.

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

Hate skiing? Try these snow-free winter adventures in NZ instead

19 Jun 06:00 AM
New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

New flight route to turn Auckland into China-South America gateway

18 Jun 11:36 PM
Flight from NZ has windscreen shattered after landing in Brisbane

Flight from NZ has windscreen shattered after landing in Brisbane

18 Jun 10:45 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP