Ouvea Beach in New Caledonia. Photo / Escape Your Life
Let’s play word association. I say Pacific Island holiday and you say ... well, we all know what you say. When it comes to an easy beach getaway, New Caledonia might not be front of mind. But it should be, writes Anna Sarjeant
In New Caledonia, you can say hello to the world’s largest lagoon and with it, a plethora of stunning tropical coral, white-sand beaches and endless aquatic fun. As a French overseas territory, you can also add the largest amount of “ohhh la la” this side of Cannes.
New Caledonia is a French territory, with the locals mostly speaking French and much of the island’s wine and culinary produce imported directly from France. On the main island of Grand Terre, darling boutiques, patisseries and cheese shops tumble into the street, much like a bustling Parisien thoroughfare, but unlike Paris, New Caledonia sits in the heart of the Pacific, allowing for a tropical flop-and-drop holiday with platinum-white beaches. Simply put, if you want France without the 36-hour flight, and you want an easy island holiday with fresh croissants on repeat, look to New Caledonia.
Noumea, on the main island of Grand Terre is a 2.5 hour flight from Auckland, 3.5 hours from Wellington, and 3 hours, 40 minutes from Christchurch.
New Caledonia is one hour behind New Zealand so think of it like visiting France without the jet lag. But more frangipani.
You’ll fly into La Tontouta International Airport, a 45-minute drive from New Caledonia’s capital city, Noumea.
Don’t expect a concrete jungle, Noumea is flanked by a picturesque lagoon, flirts with several golden beaches and has every pastry-filled boulangerie your taste buds have ever dreamt of. Overwater villas and French restaurants are all the rage here, and visitors tend to spend their days bathing at Anse Vata beach, visiting markets such as Port Moselle Market (open daily from 8am-11am, except Mondays), snorkelling off Ile aux Canards – an easy 10-minute water taxi ride away - and wandering through the city’s quaint streets and historic Latin Quarter.
The French would never put their name against an island with bad food so you can guarantee a holiday in New Caledonia is a taste sensation. Better yet, South Pacific flavours also shine through.
While the seafood at Le Roof is sublime, this Noumea-based restaurant boasts one of the best locations in the city: an overwater bungalow straddling teal-blue sea. Terrace seating next to the ocean means your meal will likely come with a sideshow. Notably, a pod of dolphins showing off.
When you’re hankering for traditional French cuisine that’s as rich as it is generously portioned, there’s Le Relais de la Vallée. The menu is bursting with authentic French flavours like goats cheese and foie gras, while the restaurant is small and homely, much like a welcoming auberge.
Of course, there are many, MANY more dining venues to discover. Our best advice? Dig in during a week-long holiday.
Kiwis love a good road trip and while it might not be the first place that springs to mind when you book a Pacific island holiday, it is the surprising forte of New Caledonia.
The main island of Grand Terre is about 400km long, lending itself to (roughly) eight hours of driving end-to-end, which you can divide over as many days as you wish. In between, you’ll find dozens of beautiful and diverse areas of the island that are rarely touched by other tourists.
Pick up a rental car from the airport and head out to explore Blue River Provincial Park, the largest park in New Caledonia and a mecca for hikers, cyclists and kayakers. Amble into Baie des Tortues (Turtle Bay) for its long curve of pristine beach and discover New Caledonia’s most beautiful waterfall, Tao.
For experiences that tap into local customs and traditions, spend a night at a farm stay in La Foa at Pocquereux Randonnée, sleeping under the stars if you so wish, and get to know the locals in the small village of Voh.
You don’t have to venture off Grand Terre to find achingly beautiful beaches. Easily the backdrop for a thousand desktop wallpapers, Poe Beach offers 10km of platinum-white sand and sparkling water. A two-hour drive north of Noumea, it’s worth a daytrip for the lagoon alone. Clear, calm and shallow, the teal-hued water is flush with coral and marine life.
White sands and inviting water are just the beginning at Amedee Island. It’s the marine reserve that makes this islet so enticing, specifically, the jaw-dropping marine flora and fauna. Forgetting your snorkel would be traumatic, so remember to pack it for the 30-40-minute ferry from Noumea (operating five times a week: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday).
Easier still, Baie des Citron (Lemon Bay) is located just 10 minutes from central Noumea and is connected via a bus route. There is a distinct resort feel here, with a lively prom and jostling strip, ideal for quick swims and a sundowner.
Would it really be a dream holiday without a sprinkling of Utopian outer islands? There are five droplets of perfection bordering New Caledonia’s main island: Ouvéa, the Isle of Pines, Lifou, Tiga and Maré.
Ouvéa: A Unesco World Heritage Site spanning little more than 35km by 40km, Ouvéa is mostly beach, reef and greenery. Irresistibly so. Mouli beach is particularly sigh-inducing and the diving is said to be the best in New Caledonia. A 40-minute flight from Noumea.
The Isle of Pines: The Bays of Kanumera and Kuto provide all the ice-white beach goodness your eyes can dine on. There are also nature-made swimming pools and excursions to Upi Bay led by local tour operators and the isle’s inhabitants, the Kuniés. Fly from Noumea in 30 minutes or catch a 2.5-hour catamaran.
Lifou: More white sandy beaches and crystalline water, 100km east of the main island. The snorkelling is profound, and the rocky landscape and dense interior rainforest lends itself to hiking. Don’t leave without visiting a vanilla plantation. The ferry from Noumea is just shy of si hours, flight time is 40 minutes.
Tiga: Come for the peace, stay for the traditional way of life, one which is full of simple pleasures, governed by the island’s single tribe. There are no hotels or restaurants and only one tarmac road. The flight from Noumea to Tiga takes one hour.
Maré: The wildest of the outer islands, expect a labyrinth of cliffs, tangled forest and sandy coves. Avocados are a big deal here, so much so there’s an annual Avocado Festival in May. The ferry from Noumea takes four hours, and the flight is 55 minutes.
Mongolian yurt
We know New Caledonia is a little slice of France in the South Pacific, and now you can experience a dash of Mongolia, too. In the form of Les Yourtes aux Fruits. Located in the countryside near La Foa, stay in a traditional Mongolian yurt in the Pocquereux Valley. There’s no beach lapping at your front door, but there’s ample opportunity to reconnect with nature and switch off from everything (or everyone) else.
Overnight catamaran cruise
There’s no denying the azure ocean is a major Pacific Island drawcard, so hop aboard Abaca Cruises and spread yourself across three spacious cabins, each with a private bathroom. There’s a rampoline and sun deck to utilise in between swims, while your catamaran glides towards the Isle of Pines and the Loyalty Islands.
Bubble tents
Stay in the middle of a beautiful New Caledonian forest with Bulles de Farino. These bubble tents and dome lodgings are perfect for couples, offering complete privacy and an outdoor Jacuzzi – the perfect place to admire an unblemished starlit sky. Parc des Grandes Fougères (Giant Fern Park) is on the doorstep for hiking and forest bathing.
For more things to see and do in New Caledonia, visit nz.newcaledonia.travel
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