Russell, in the Bay of Islands. Photo / Getty Images
You don't need your passport for a welcome winter family escape. As Anna King Shahab discovered over the course of a July weekend, the Bay of Islands offers warmth in more ways than one.
On Yer Bikes
The cicadas in Northland haven't got the news that its the middle of July. It's not quite the screeching chorus of summer, but the mix of tall pines and native bush at Wairoa Bay near Waitangi is harbouring a good many of the musically minded insects on a clear, sunny Saturday morning.
We've just set off on our first trail at Waitangi Mountain Bike Park (WMBP) and I realise why co-founder Jonny, who set us up with bikes and helmets at the Trail Hub, reckoned we'd be better off leaving our jackets behind. For once, my 10-year-old daughter's preference for short shorts in winter proves sensible.
Only one of our family of four had done the mountain-biking thing previously (which makes us unusual perhaps, by Kiwi standards), and this is the perfect place for our first hoon.
A mammoth community-built effort in consultation with DoC, Waitangi National Trust and tangata whenua, the park encompasses more than 70km of trails of different grades, as well as a just-opened pump track, to which my 10 year-old has been steadily begging to return since our visit.
The "easy" trails were challenging enough for us, but you can go as gnarly as you like. Shuttles can uplift and drop you to different trails, meaning you can take in the panoramic views from the top of the park without having to pedal up. Or there's another prescription for the hill-averse: e-mountain bikes for hire (adult-size only at this stage) – "You can cover three times the distance you would on a regular mountain bike", explains Jonny. "Plus they're just so fun to ride".
wmpb.nz
Beak Performance
A bit of a hidden gem just out of town in Kerikeri, The Parrot Place is fair warning to anyone with a passionate hobby: in this case, one couple's love of keeping parrots has resulted in their entire, large, subtropical-planted garden being taken up with aviaries and scores of parrots from all over the world on display.
Armed with tubs of nuts and seeds, we spent more than an hour here with the inquisitive birds, some of which are free to perch on whichever part of you they like (in my case on my head and neck, to try and nab shiny earrings). I actually wasn't expecting to enjoy The Parrot Place as much as I did, but these feathered fellas have such endearing personalities. And, let's be honest, there's just something so gratifying about birds saying hello back to you.
theparrotplace.co.nz
It's A Bay!
Did you even visit the Bay of Islands if you didn't get out on the water? The bay has always, and always will, attract those with a shared love of exploring oceans – from pre-European explorers to today's yachties and fishing folk.
We hopped aboard a Fullers catamaran, cruising out to the easternmost point, Cape Brett, and the famous Hole in the Rock and back. Pods of common and bottlenose dolphins are often sighted out here but they managed to elude us – never mind, the company offers a free "second time lucky" trip to be taken any time you like.
dolphincruises.co.nz
Foundation Of A Nation
Spending time at the Treaty Grounds at Waitangi should be on every New Zealander's to-do list. Having not been there since I was the same age as my kids are now, I was wowed by the quality of the museum (opened 2017), the guided tour we had with Mukai, cultural performance in Te Whare Rūnanga, and the displays in The Treaty House (James Busby's residence). (The delicious seafood chowder at onsite Whare Waka Cafe was another highlight).
We had planned on a few hours here but ended up staying for almost five, with the kids engaged the whole time. Having learned about the Treaty in school, visiting the site lent tangibility. A new museum, dedicated to the history of the Māori Battalion, will open in February and will be another good reason to put Waitangi at the top of your list.
waitangi.org.nz
Bite the Bay
Always one to plan holidays based on the quality of eating to be had, I have to admit I wasn't sure what to expect. Apart from a roadie-trip visit to the very delicious The Old Packhouse Market in Kerikeri a few years ago, it had been more than a decade since I'd sampled the offerings of the Bay of Islands. I was very impressed.
We'd booked dinner in Russell at the Duke of Marlborough on what turned out to be a very busy Friday night – the annual Birdman Festival had just kicked off with the Dagg Dash (women dressed like Fred) and (men in heels with handbags) drag races and the had hordes had gathered within the hour.
All packed in the Duke for after-pints but despite the buzz, dinner was candle-lit, calm and lovely: we sat on the cosy heated veranda, serenaded by a guy and his guitar, and were looked after by super-lovely waitstaff. Orongo Bay oysters and perfectly cooked hāpuku (direct from local boats) were standouts. Also: shoutout to the bar, which serves a proper imperial pint.
Charlotte's Kitchen is the Duke's younger sister restaurant, sitting pretty out over the water on Paihia Wharf. Figuring we were on to a good local thing, we had both the oysters and the hāpuku again. The oysters, from Waikare this time, were plump and sweet and the local fish once again cooked with care.
Believe it when your waiter says the single-size pork hock is in fact enough for two to share – it comes with perfect crackling, German-style braised spiced red cabbage and local potatoes, and staff are quite used to packing up leftovers for customers, like us, who over-order.
For Mexican-inspired breakfasts and really good coffee, head to El Cafe – the staff there are also lovely but that seems to go without saying in this area. Walking from our hotel to the wharf for dinner, we also chanced upon Thirty, a cute spot we'd return to in a heartbeat: think craft beer on tap, a shelf of family-friendly games, a crackling fire, and friendly locals.
And – don't forget this is where some of the best citrus fruit in the country is grown, as well as tip-top avocados and kiwifruit – all at their peak in these cooler months. Look for orchard shops and honesty-box stalls along State Highway I and Kerikeri Rd.
Stay
The Scenic Hotel is a five-minute walk from the wharf and great cafes and bars and the perfect digs for a family. It has huge rooms (we had two interconnecting), an onsite restaurant and a swimming pool. The pool isn't heated but you can bet at least one of my kids tested that out, in the middle of July.
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