KEY POINTS:
A few crimson flecks of blood land heavily in the grey sawdust just inches from my feet. Strange, how blood looks so different in reality, somehow darker and more disturbing than in films or on TV.
Som Pong, 15, looks on edge. He is about to get
into the ring and test his mettle with another fighter, and judging by the events that have just taken place, he had better be on his game or he'll be heading home on a stretcher.
The action in the ring has just reached its brutal climax. As one fighter lies twitching on the canvas, the winning corner begins to celebrate while the champion prowls the ring like a lion that's just made a kill.
Inside Chaweng Stadium, the sweat drips from the ceiling. Around me a throng of Thais take part in frenzied betting, thrusting wads of grubby bank notes back and forth while haggling almost hysterically.
On the island of Koh Samui the sacred art of kickboxing, or Muay Thai as it is known locally, is more popular than ever.
Watching the fight with me is an English traveller named Tim, 38, whom I met the previous afternoon at the nearby Reggae Pub, a favourite haunt for backpackers. He has a sinewy build and a manner that suggests he won't suffer fools gladly.
Tim has just returned from a gruelling six-month training session at the Lanna Boxing Camp in the northern province of Chang Mai, so he's no stranger to this sort of violence.
The experience taught him a new level of respect for the Thai warriors, and deepened his understanding of what they must go through to be ready to step into the ring.
"It's really difficult when you first start off; your body is going through some serious changes and you get some really nasty aches and pains," he explains. "It doesn't help that you are training in such boiling temperatures."
After putting his body through hell for all those months, he managed to reach a level where he could take on a local fighter in front of a decent crowd.
"It's the hardest thing I have ever done," he admits. "I remember when the final bell went; I was just staggering around the ring telling people how tough it was.
"Although I won the fight, I couldn't walk for two months afterwards. I got massive swelling on my legs, one shin was two or three times the size of the other one. It was just hideous."
It's clear that most people in Thailand are intensely proud of their ancient martial artform. And because of its long-standing traditions, the relationship between a Thai boxer and his trainer are highly ritualised.
Once entering the ring, they begin a pre-fight dance known as wai kru. This normally starts with the fighter walking around the ring, counter-clockwise. Often this is described as "sealing the ring", demonstrating that the match is purely between these two contestants.
More experienced fighters will wear a headband given to them by their trainer. Once the ritual has been completed, the bell sounds and the fight begins.
A match consists of five rounds of three minutes each. All surfaces of the body are considered fair game, and any part of the body besides the head may be used to strike an opponent. Wrestling, biting, spitting or kicking your opponent while down are, however, frowned on.
The origins of Muay Thai are thought to stretch back to the wars with the Burmese during the 15th century. It developed over the years as a form of self-defence, particularly during the Ayutthaya period between 1350-1767.
Boxers would wrap their fists in thick horsehide, trimmed with cotton, then soak them in glue and broken glass for added impact. Fights would leave only one fighter alive. In some rural parts of Thailand and Burma, it is said these clandestine fights still take place illegally.
The country's first famous boxer was Nai Khanom Tom, said to have single-handedly defeated a dozen Burmese fighters to win his freedom.
Today, big-name fighters such as Khaosai Galaxy, who chalked up 19 World Boxing Association bantamweight championships in a row, enjoy a superstar status that rivals that of Ricky Ponting or Sonny Bill Williams.
Back in the ring, Som is holding his own. He is pitched against a larger opponent, but the look in his eyes suggests he wants this fight badly.
Even if you find combat sports barbaric, it is tough to argue against the sheer courage of the contestants.
Bullfighting in Spain demands courage by the matador, but for the most part it is the bull and the picador horses that feel the pain.
Cock and dog fighting, though banned in most countries, still titillate the sadistic and sexual cravings of men and women in some less well-policed states of the world.
By contrast, while the brutality of Muay Thai boxing sometimes made me wince - for nerve, skill and good old-fashioned bottle, it commanded my respect.
By now the crowd is at fever pitch. Those with money riding on the fight are baying for blood. The riotous tempo of the ringside music only adds to the tension.
Som finally puts an end to the proceedings by bringing his knee into the face of his opponent.
With a sickening crunch, he drops him to the canvas with callous abandonment.
Tim informs me the victor will probably take home about 1000 baht (around $44) for his efforts. Thai workers earn around 6000 baht a month, so it puts the risk of a savage beating in perspective.
As we make our way out of the stadium, the clamour of the crowd leaves a faint ringing in my ears.
The sudden quiet is disturbed only by the sound of insects in the grass, adding an almost surreal quality to the evening's events.
Heading back along the rocky dirt track to my beach hut, I'm in a reflective mood.
I feel certain of only two things. The first is that I won't be getting myself into a bar brawl on this island any time soon.
The second? Jean Claude Van Damme is a wuss.
GETTING THERE
Thai Airways flies regularly to Bangkok from $566 plus taxes. See Flight Centre for more information.
FIGHTS
In Koh Samui you can watch professional Muay Thai (Thai boxing) at the Chaweng Stadium, across from Chaweng Lake, near the Reggae Pub, on Mondays and Fridays at 6pm. Expect to pay from 500 baht to watch a fight. Other fights are staged on different nights during the week, so call the stadium direct for last-minute information on 077-4135045. Nearby Lamai Stadium (in the bar area in the middle of the Beach Rd) holds fights on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
In Bangkok, the main place is Lumpini Stadium, Rama IV Rd (662-252-8765), on Tuesday and Fridays from 6.30pm and on Saturdays at 5pm-8pm and at 8.30pm. Prices range from 500-1500 baht depending on how close you want to sit to the ring.
FURTHER INFORMATION
For general information about visiting Thailand see Tourism Thailand. For further details on Muay Thai see www.muaythai.com.
