There's plenty to do Lake Tekapo apart from staring at the Instagrammable scenery. Photo: Getty Images
There's plenty to do Lake Tekapo apart from staring at the Instagrammable scenery. Photo: Getty Images
Juliet Speedy discovers a change is as good as a rest.
I learned early on, as a mother of three small children, to stop calling our trips away a "holiday".
It seemed far more appropriate to label them a "change of scenery". When you're away with three children under 3,the car trips aren't peaceful, no-one sleeps well and there's usually a vomit bug or dose of chickenpox thrown in for good measure. I always used to love leaving for holiday, but then equally love turning back for home. At least I knew we had Peppa Pig on rotate so I could get dinner cooked.
But the kids are older now. And going away, though still exhausting, is pretty fun. I mean, it's no lying under a palm tree getting through six novels in a week. But it's fun, loud chaos with a different backdrop.
There are ways to do it well. Pack wisely, throw some favourite DVD's in, make a "kids faves" playlist on Spotify, a bottle of strong liquor (for you, not them), box up all the pantry staples. Have you ever been on a week's holiday with three kids and not taken pantry staples? Small-town supermarkets and large grocery shops equal a visa card with a heartbeat.
The latest change of scene the kids and I embarked on was through the rolling hills of South Canterbury down to the Mackenzie Country and on to majestic Lake Tekapo.
Tekapo is the second-largest of three parallel lakes running north-south along the northern edge of the Mackenzie Basin. The lake is an incredible shade of cobalt blue. You'd be mistaken for thinking your child had tipped a giant bottle of food colouring into it while you stopped for petrol.
Actually, the glaciers in the headwaters of Lake Tekapo grind rock into a fine dust on their journey down towards the lake. This rock "flour" is suspended in the water and causes that insane colour. Isn't nature incredible? That's a thought that lives with you permanently when you're in this part of the world.
We had a week there mid-winter. The stunning, commanding mountains, capped in snow, loomed over the forests and lakes. The roads in and out of Tekapo were flanked by wide open spaces with a body of water or magnificent alp around every corner. The place was named the most "Instagrammed location in New Zealand" and I kindly obliged.
I love that a Google search of Tekapo gives the result "People also ask — What is there to do in Lake Tekapo at night?". Because the bottom line is, despite all the glitzy new development it is still a sleepy, small town with restaurants that close early. In fact the weekend we were there, friends tried to go to the Cricket World Cup final (yes, that final) at the local pub and were turned away by the grumpy bartender. "Na, it's not worth us staying open for that." Maybe she knew something they didn't.
Night sky above Tekapo Oservatory. Photo / Maki Yanagimachi
Tekapo might be one of the quietest spots on the planet but it has one of the busiest night skies in the universe. It is an International Dark Sky Reserve, the largest in the world. The sky at night is stunning. There are many tours you can do from the Mt John Observatory and the new Ngai Tahu-backed Dark Sky Project. This offers tours and a lovely cafe on the waterfront (but be warned — this is one of many activities that requires a rather plump wallet).
If you're not a stargazer, tuck up in front of a fire at night and wear yourself out during the day. Frolic in the lupins and other wildflowers if you're there in summer. The days are long, the lake is warm(ish) and there's more chance of mingling with the locals.
Go to the Church of the Good Shepherd. If any building can convert you, it's this one. Stunning, eerie, quaint and peaceful it has a view from the altar rivalled by no other in the world.
When the snow is in town, there are lots of great local ski fields. Round Hill is good for learners. You can back your car on to the slopes and fry sausages on a portable barbecue.
The Church of the Good Shepherd at Lake Tekapo. Photo / Mike Scott
Tekapo Springs was also a big hit with my brood. You may need to re-mortgage your home to frequent it but they have beautiful hot pools, a snow tube park and an outdoor ice skating rink. It's nestled at the bottom of the hill under a watchful forest. It's wholesome alpine living at its finest. Picture yourself in front of the open fire with a local pinot, watching the kids ice skate. There are worse places to be.
We also did a lot of fishing. If you have a vehicle and a rod in the back there are endless spots to throw your line in - canals, lakes, rivers. And the local salmon farm allows you to feed the salmon or catch the salmon - or eat at their cafe where almost everything features salmon.
There are many ways in this pocket of paradise to wear out the kids. It's not a cheap holiday if you want to indulge in all the activities on offer but you don't have to. There's walking, picnicking and board games against a mountainous backdrop for a free day of good living.
They say, when you have children, you need to pick your arguments wisely. I say you need to pick your "change of scenery" wisely, too. And if you get it right, you just might get a nice holiday to boot.
