Taiwan: Storming port in Kaohsiung

Spring and Autumn Pavilions, Lotus Pond, Kahosiung. Photo / Getty Images

Kaohsiung, in Taiwan's south, has gone from an industrial harbour to a cultural hotspot, writes Kathleen Davidson.

Compared with many parts of Taiwan, the huge southwest port city of Kaohsiung is a relatively new city. The second capital of Taiwan, it has been experiencing a post-industrial renaissance with a burgeoning arts and culture scene, trendy restaurants and cafes and a buzzing nightlife. Here are a few reasons why you should go.

The sights to see

It's worth making a trek uphill to the former British Consulate at Takao, which was built in the late 1800s and now serves as a gallery and museum of British history in the area. The red brick building sits high on a cliff next to the equally impressive Cijan Tianhou Temple; once you get to the top of its big stone staircase you can enjoy views of Xiziwan Bay and Kaohsiung port while grabbing a bite to eat and a cool drink at the onsite cafe.
The city's famous Love River is also a major drawcard thanks to the boardwalk, parks and open-air cafes that line its pretty banks — and don't miss the Fo Guang Shan Buddhist temple complex with its 480 golden Buddha statues, or the multi-coloured glass-domed roof of the Formosa Boulevard MRT Station.

Foodie heaven

Regional specialities include indigenous Hakka cuisine from the small town of Meinong — think pork hock, knuckle, braised streaky pork, and pickled pineapple with soy beans and tomatoes — and Jiaxian taro. Wild pig sausage and roasted turtledove are also popular dishes. The cafe scene is thriving in Kaohsiung with cool spots including the creative meccas of the Arthouse and Ruh cafes and the stylish Apartment Cafe, while you'll find awesome coffee at Caffe Artigiano.

Drink it in

If you want to hit the dance floor, the hotspot of BrickYard is open until breakfast time, but if a couple of cocktails are more your vibe, there are cool spots such as Old. Trick and Mini Enclave. Craft beer, of course, is becoming popular too — seek it out at the Kaohsiung outpost of Zhangmen Brewery.

Best selfie spot

Cijan, or Qijin, Island is a five-minute ferry ride from the harbour at Kaohsiung, and has amazing photo ops from the Rainbow Arch and the Qihou Lighthouse to the Qijin Star bicycle highway and Qijin Windmill Park.

There are terrific night-time shots to be had among the lamps of the Spring and Autumn Pavilions at Lotus Pond.

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Architectural wonders the Instagrammers love include the Guomao Community, an enormous circular military housing complex built in the 1970s; an abandoned building complex called An Le Lou; and the very cool Dragon and Tiger Pagodas near the Lotus Pond whose mouths and bodies you actually walk through. Get ready for some frenetic Instagram action.

Don't leave town without ...

Stopping by the Pier-2 Art Centre, a reimagined historic pier on the waterfront. This open-air creative space features all manner of interesting sculptures and art installations to admire as well as a miniature vintage train, old locomotives, live entertainment and 25 retro warehouses from the 1970s which have been converted into unique boutiques, galleries and eateries. Popular with locals and tourists alike, Pier-2 is great for people-watching and browsing any day of the week.

Plan a trip around ...

Taiwan has great sand sculpture events and the annual Cijin Black Sand Festival held each July and August at Cijin Beach is one of the best.

As well as the giant elaborate sand castles there is a huge dance party, water activities and large kite shows, and it even features a DIY section so you can have a go yourself.

Checklist

GETTING THERE
China Airlines flies from Auckland to Taipei, via Brisbane, with return Economy Class fares from $1229.
DETAILS
eng.taiwan.net.twb