Lush forest scenery in Tahiti. Photo / Unsplash
To find the real French Polynesia, ditch the fancy bungalows and stay here instead, writes Erika Ebsworth-Goold.
When one thinks of Tahiti and her islands, pristine beaches, glassy waters teeming with incredible wildlife and a blissful vibe likely come to mind. Indeed, the entire region is a favourite for honeymooners, adventurers and those seeking a sun-soaked respite.
While visiting this paradise has the potential to dig into your travel budget, it turns out Tahiti can also be financially feasible, if you make one simple swap. Here’s everything you need to know about this travel hack that might just give you a richer, more authentic Tahitian experience.
Also known as guesthouses, family stays are the Polynesian version of a bed and breakfast. These small, charming spots are sprinkled across the islands. Some sit beachside, others are tucked into tropical gardens or in village centres. If you’re lucky, you might just find one situated on a private motu, giving off true castaway vibes.
Each family stay is independently run and offers the chance to connect with the people managing daily operations. This allows curious travellers to take a deep dive into Polynesian culture, as most staff are happy to tell you all about island life and supply you with tips to make the most of your holiday time.
I recently checked into two such spots on far-flung atolls in the Tuamotus: Fakarava and Tikehau. Nightly rates started at about $350, compared to options that can run you well into the thousands. While a bit rustic, both felt warm and authentic. Indeed, my first trip to Tahiti was all the more meaningful because of the lovely people who ran these special places.
My family stay experience began near Tahiti’s capital, Papeete, when I opted for an island tour. Our guide Marie-Jeanne Nordhoff-Faatomo took my group well off the beaten path, and we chased waterfalls, visited quieter beaches and noshed on fresh rambutan purchased from a roadside stand. All the while Nordhoff-Faatomo supplied us with a fascinating stream of anecdotes about Tahitian culture, even stopping at a spot where we could view striking blue-eyed eels, sacred animals revered by Polynesians.
But the big surprise came midday, when we pulled up at her parents’ beachside home. They’d prepared a large traditional lunch, and we feasted right on the water. A small adjacent cottage serves as their own family stay, which they rent out. I instantly felt at ease with them, sharing the delicious meal and plenty of island tales.
The warm, fuzzy feeling continued the following day when I landed in Tikehau, a tiny atoll about 320km from Papeete. A member of staff from Tikehau Paradise greeted us at the tiny, thatched hut airport, with sweetly fragrant tiare flower leis, and helped carry our luggage to a waiting pickup truck. After a short drive down a dirt road, we boarded a small water ferry to the small inn. My beachside hut was both comfortable and traditional, with a thatched roof and mosquito-netted double bed, and while there wasn’t air conditioning, ocean breezes and strong fans kept me cool even in the early June heat. A dining room overlooking a shallow lagoon was where we ate hearty French-inspired meals daily and marvelled at the large black-tipped sharks circling just feet away from our tables.
On-site activities and amenities were fairly limited but the pensionne provided the perfect spot to unwind after days on and in the water, including scuba diving, snorkelling and even a traditional motu cookout. The night sky was especially stunning; limited light pollution revealing the Milky Way and a plethora of brilliant shooting stars. Several groups with small children were there during our stay, and it was delightful to see them enjoy the tranquil, simple setting too.
A few blissful days later, it was onto a plane to Fakarava to stay at Teariki Lodge, several small bungalows just off the beach. Like most homestays, it covered the basics for a comfortable stay and what it lacked in fancy furnishings or amenities it more than made up for by the views. Staff were just offsite and easily reached; breakfast was delivered to our large bay windows each morning by a friendly attendant. After meeting the owners, they helped us make transportation plans and introduced us to Hinano Hellberg, a local pearl farmer living right across the atoll’s only paved road. I pinched myself as I hand-picked several large pearls and watched as they were drilled for me on the spot. Hellberg later graciously allowed us to snorkel in the clear, calm waters just off her farm’s docks; a unique experience one can’t book or buy but can only access through a kind host’s genuine community connections.
Bottom line: both stays did indeed treat me like family. I got an insider’s look at what daily life on these tiny islands is really like, and I was enchanted.
While I found family stays a rewarding, budget-friendly alternative to an expensive resort, consider your own preferences before determining lodging plans. I personally appreciated getting to know the families running each place I stayed, but chatting up strangers might not be an introvert’s favourite way to relax while on holiday. And if you insist on luxe vacation amenities, including a shower with power-washer level pressure, lush toiletries and room service, it may be wise to upgrade your stay.
But if you’re like me – a nosy sort who wants to immerse themselves in a destination’s people and history in a genuine, organic way – this type of accommodation is hard to beat. I received so much more than what I might have lost in creature comforts. And trust me, this is coming from a woman who likes her creature comforts.
If you think a traditional Tahitian guesthouse might be your island go-to, be sure to book early. You can find many options online (search sites like Airbnb or Booking.com), but be aware: locals routinely snap them up during breaks and holidays.
The writer was a guest of Tahiti Tourisme.