Surfing snowy gems in Otago

Wanaka's ski fields offer freedom from queuing and crowding. Photo / Isaac Davison

"This is New Zealand powder," our French bus driver mocks on the narrow road above Matukituki Valley.

It is midweek at Treble Cone ski resort and he goads us for getting excited about a light overnight dusting of fresh snow. But the 10cm of powder is enough to allow confident boarding and a little recklessness.

We reach the Saddle Basin on the far side of the resort by 9am and have it nearly to ourselves. Falls are cushioned in the marshy surface and my snowboard cuts grooves in the slope instead of shooting across the surface.

I'm told the snow is comparable to Scotland or France - dry and light and it falls on tussock so obtrusive rocks are rare. Welcome news for someone who grew up on the rock minefield at Whakapapa.

It is my first expedition to South Island snowfields and the most immediate difference is the lack of queues and crowding. Four minutes is the most we wait for a chairlift all week.

On the main trail we take a breather to gasp over the view back to Lake Wanaka, a turquoise oval with dark blue fingers slicing between dun-coloured mountains. We are alone for a full five minutes before the silence is interrupted by the rasping scour of a snowboarder.

The basin is made is made up of steep, wide trails and several deeply gouged valleys. In one of these, the Gun Barrel, I experience the closest thing possible to surfing on snow, riding high up a wall, body horizontal, before plunging down the face to ride the opposite wall.

For the first time in my life I board until I can board no more. My toes cramp, knees wobble, and pulling off my boots feels like a surgical operation.

Treble Cone attracts the more serious skiers, with steeper slopes than Cardrona and the longest groomed runs in the country. Its gradient makes you feel that if you overshoot a jump you'll freefall into the valley below.

It also makes for a slightly harrowing drive on an icy afternoon. The goat track of hairpins and sheer sides prove daunting for tourists - many park their cars at the bottom and opt for the free bus.

The next day we have a heart-stopping moment when the chains on our four-wheel drive fail to grip for an icy two seconds. The car turns a quarter circle before coming to a stop. I laugh nervously and continue at 10km/h.

Cardrona ski resort, half an hour from Wanaka, has a more relaxed feel, and is arguably a more smoothly run operation than Treble Cone. A large team of graders make the road more bearable. A woman skier in the cafe tells me the she chooses the resort purely because it provides a creche for her toddler.

Our guide takes us off-piste to take advantage of fresh snowfall, and for thrilling minutes at a time I can see only a red outline of our guide's red jacket.

When I can no longer see the snow I am moving on, we take a break in the noodle house, which provides food tastier than the snowfield cafe food I am used to.

Wanaka's residents are possessive about their skifields. Treble Cone and Cardrona are not Queenstown slopes, I am told firmly and repeatedly.

When Treble Cone raised prices of its lift passes several years ago after a management shake-up, residents went into an uproar. But the resort has now won back the residents' favour, treading a fine line between an elite alpine resort and remaining a community-focused business.

Both mountains are bright gems in Central Otago's crown. As I sit on the chairlift at Cardrona at the end of the week, a 3pm sun filtering through a cloud and my legs creaking with over-use, I think, with a giddy smile, that there can be few greater things to do in this country than spend a day on a South Island slope.

On the rare occasions torrid weather makes skiing impossible, the brick and cream-coloured township is a warm retreat.

Wanaka has no glaring red Warehouses or golden arches of McDonalds. Strict town planning means the town's aesthetic fits snugly into its burnt yellow and dry brown surroundings. The lake stretches along the northern side of the town, lined with poplar trees. A brief drive down the coastline is Rippon Vineyard, a contender for most picturesque vineyard in the country.

Service - so often the Achilles heel of our tourism - is sharp.

Lake Wanaka Tourism chairman Steve Worley says their shops are more likely to be staffed by educated young Britons on a gap year than college dropouts. Hospitality and retail staff are content, often working shorter six-hour shifts, and getting plenty of days on the mountain.

Unlike Queenstown, there are few places to drink into the night. Instead we watch the latest Harry Potter movie in the boutique Cinema Paradiso. With a locally brewed ale, home-made cookies, and couches for the entire audience, there is a palpable buzz in the theatre.

Is there something in the water in Wanaka? Worley says local kids are healthier and fitter. They have snowsports on their doorstep and no major fast food chains. In the summer, he says, a line of children from the high school jump into the lake from the jetty. "It's a wonderful sight - 50 or 60 of them."

Wanaka does not want to be the quieter, quainter little brother of Queenstown. And it isn't. It stands alone as a premium destination.

CHECKLIST

How to get there: Air New Zealand flies daily domestic flights to Queenstown. Wanaka is a 45-minute drive from Queenstown. Alpine Rentals provide vehicles at the airport, including four-wheel drives for getting up the slopes.

Where to stay: Te Wanaka Lodge is a contemporary European-style lodge in the heart of the Wanaka village. It is owned by young outdoor enthusiasts, whose passions include fly-fishing, golf, hiking, biking and enjoying good food and wine.

Where to eat: Missy's Kitchen was a finalist in the Cuisine Restaurant of the Year competition. It offers fine dining and Central Otago wines with lake and mountain views. Mains from $25.

Further information: Discover all about the Wanaka region at lakewanaka.co.nz

Isaac Davison was hosted by Wanaka Winter Marketing Group.