NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Steppe country: The heart of darkness

Herald online
29 Aug, 2008 02:30 AM5 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Driving across the Mongolian Steppes. Photo / Matt Kennedy-Good

Driving across the Mongolian Steppes. Photo / Matt Kennedy-Good

I clenched my teeth and took a last look at Oddy, our beloved car and home for the last five weeks. Marta, sitting in the car, sighed. I'd like to think she was crying.

I picked up my pack, and began walking towards the Mongolian border. Alone. For me, the rally was over. It was a bitter end - caused not by an honourable fatal breakdown, but the whim of a government official.

Things had started to go wrong about a week earlier, when we attempted to enter Russia.

Breakdowns, a closed border, impenetrable roads and eventually a seven-hour border crossing had robbed us of four precious days and the double decker bus (we left it stranded at the border, part of its clutch literally embedded four inches in the road).

The calm confidence of a few days before had been replaced by an anxious panic - I only had eight days to get to Ulan Bator to catch a flight home in time for my sister's wedding. This was not a deadline I could miss.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Then came the news that we had been dreading - the northern border from Russia into Mongolia, which we had applied to enter, was still not open for Mongol Rally cars.

The rally organisers had an agreement with the Mongolian Government which should have allowed us to bypass normal vehicle importation rules, on the basis that we donated our cars to charity when we arrived in Ulan Bator.

No one knew why - perhaps because of recent elections and the ensuing turmoil - but the officials at the northern border were no longer honouring the agreement.

That left us with two options: We could drive to the northern border, as planned and abandon Oddy and the ambulance there.

The alternative was trying to enter the western border, which inexplicably was still allowing Mongol Rally cars in.

Discover more

Travel

A meeting with Mongolian nomads

09 Jul 04:30 AM
Travel

Mongolia: A lesson in turning the tables

26 Jul 03:00 AM
Travel

Mongolia: Fab Four found in unlikeliest of places

02 Nov 04:30 PM
Travel

Riding high: Conquering Mongolia on the hoof

03 Mar 11:00 PM

The decision was complicated. The reason we had opted for the northern border initially was that it was only 300 kilometres from Ulan Bator. We could drive right to the doorstep on relatively good Russian roads.

Relatively good in that they existed at all. Entering through the western border meant travelling 1800km across Mongolia "roads" - nothing more than boulder-covered dirt tracks, rivers, and sand dunes.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Or so we had heard. The other problem was that we had no idea what to expect from Mongolia, other than the recommendation only specialist 4x4 vehicles should attempt it.

The ambulance couldn't even drive along sealed roads without breaking down, let alone off-road. Oddy has less ground clearance than a shopping trolley. We had never even considered driving across it. It was lunacy on a grand scale.

"What do we do?" Chris asked, addressing the six of us.

"Go west" almost all of us replied, in unison.

There was never any doubt. Some even tried to mumble the rest of the song by the Village People. The Rally had finally begun!

Four days later, and the mood was not so jovial. What we thought was a 500km drive though Russia to the western border, had turned out to be 1200km (we didn't have a Russian map and the area was covered by a legend on our Kazakstan map).

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Our progress was further hampered by corrupt police wanting bribes. (We were stopped four times in a 24 hour period, but managed never to pay a bribe.)

When we finally did reach the freezing, desolate, end-of-the-world border town, we found out that it was shut until the following morning.

And then our luck became really bad.

Instead of crossing the border from no man's land into Mongolia first, as we should have at the head of the queue, the border officials infuriatingly let everyone move past us.

After an hour we discovered that only that morning, a Mongolian government official had decided that no more rally cars could come through.

Apparently, until that morning, the country had been in the grip of their most successful Olympics campaign ever. Everyone had been in a great mood.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Now it was over, it was back to business, bribes and bureaucracy - as usual.

Oddy was stuck in No Man's Land. Chris and James ran inside the border gates to try and resolve the issue. But it was hopeless. No one cared. Instead they took two-hour lunches and shrugged their shoulders at us.

With only days to get to my flight, I had little choice. I would have to leave Oddy, Chris, Marta and the Spaniards, cross the border and try to hitch to the capital for my flight. But even this seemed impossible.

When I tried to walk through the gates, out of No Man's Land, the border official stopped me, saying something about a car in Russian.

Despondent, I sat on the side of the road, threw stones at the gophers on the barren hillside and ate our provisions.

About half an hour later Chris emerged from the building, his head down. I didn't even get up to talk to him.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"Hey guys" he said.

There was little reply, but he continued anyway.

"Who feels like driving 1800km across Mongolia?"

It was back on. We didn't know why the gods had smiled on us, but it didn't matter. It was after 6pm and light was fading, but into Mongolia we plunged, into the darkness.

Click here for the team's website and to donate to their charities.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

New Zealand's most trusted firms revealed

17 Jun 09:26 PM
Travel

How to visit six European countries in 13 stress-free days

17 Jun 08:00 AM
Herald NOW

Matariki weekend: The top 10 most searched destinations

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

New Zealand's most trusted firms revealed

New Zealand's most trusted firms revealed

17 Jun 09:26 PM

The 2025 Kantar Corporate Reputation Index has been announced.

How to visit six European countries in 13 stress-free days

How to visit six European countries in 13 stress-free days

17 Jun 08:00 AM
Matariki weekend: The top 10 most searched destinations

Matariki weekend: The top 10 most searched destinations

What the inaugural Jetstar flight from Hamilton to Sydney was really like

What the inaugural Jetstar flight from Hamilton to Sydney was really like

16 Jun 08:16 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP