Nine Arch Bridge in Ella. Photo / Unsplash
In Sri Lanka, Caterina Hrysomallis stumbles upon a world-class travel experience that costs mere dollars.
When I was planning a trip to Sri Lanka, a fellow travel writer who had visited gave me some advice. “Don’t bother with the trains. Just hire a private driver to take you around for a few weeks.”
Private drivers certainly can elevate travel, but on this occasion, I’m glad I ignored the suggestion. Tripping around in a car, I would have missed one of the most incredible train journeys I’ve ever taken, from the central city of Kandy southeast, to the wondrous little town of Ella.
Provided you haven’t seen any footage of the train ride, you wouldn’t really be able to guess what kind of ride awaits you starting from Kandy. Yes, Kandy is considered a hilly city. But more hills than imaginable await passengers on the train.
This route winds through Sri Lanka’s heart – lush tea country, also known as the high country. It’s part of the British-commissioned Main Line, which was built in the 19th century to access Sri Lanka’s most prized export: tea.
The ‘Ella Odyssey’ journey is a dedicated tourist train, whose 155km takes roughly seven hours. While that might sound long for the distance, I have a suspicion fellow travellers would be glad in the end. It becomes meditative looking out at what seems endless, rolling tea fields and the maze-like patterns they create. Emerald plantations that stretch as far as the eye can see, villages nestled within them. Rivers, ravines, waterfalls, the rainforest and its palms. It gives the globe’s other train rides a real run for their money.
More broadly, you get to feel how vast Sri Lanka really is.
Back to rebelling against exclusively journeying in a car. Train travel often isn’t about getting from A to B, but reaching places that roads cannot.
Along the way, you’ll spot tea farmers harvesting world-renowned Ceylon tea. They often pop fresh leaves into a basket on their backs. Sometimes, they’re dressed in colourful saris that beautifully contrast with the green.
I’m an avid tea drinker, but admittedly, before visiting Sri Lanka, I knew next to nothing about tea production. That too changed once I arrived in Ella and visited a tea factory.
Did you know black tea and green tea come from the same plant? Well, I didn’t. The potency and colour of green and black tea depend on how the tea leaves are picked and processed.
I was utterly mind-blown that Ceylon Tea, English Breakfast and Earl Grey are all from the same plant. How had I never thought about or learnt this before? I left with a far greater appreciation for tea than I could have ever imagined.
Now, for the logistics of actually booking a train. Sri Lanka’s train system has three classes of service: first, second and third. Which one you go with depends on whether you want to travel in absolute comfort, simply want a seat, or are fine standing.
You can reserve seats for all classes online, up to 30 days in advance, a process that has become much simpler in recent years thanks to Sri Lanka Railways and other travel companies upgrading their systems for English-speakers.
You can also buy tickets at stations, close to or on your travel date. But you run the risk of your desired date and class not being available, particularly in the busier months (December to April).
I travelled from the capital, Colombo, to Kandy on a first-class train. It was spacious, air-conditioned and quiet thanks to fully enclosed cabins with sealed windows.
Second class is popular among travellers as it still offers the comfort of a seat but at a lower price point. Open carriage windows allow for fresh airflow but there is no air conditioning. In third class, there are carriages dedicated to reserved seats and others for unreserved tickets. In these unreserved carriages, it’s a first-come-first-served system when it comes to scoring a seat. If you miss out, you’ll need to stand.
The standing areas of unreserved carriages can sometimes get crowded. If you’re a true no-frills traveller, this could be the option for you.
After travelling on all train classes in Sri Lanka, second class has to be my favourite. However, it’s the most likely to sell out quickly, so it’s best to book seats in advance.
If you’re travelling in third class and haven’t reserved a seat but are eager for one, in the case of the Kandy to Ella route, I’d recommend getting on one or two stops before the train reaches Kandy Railway Station for your best shot.
As for ticket prices, they vary based on the kind of train, date, season and whether it’s express. The ‘Ella Odyssey’ (the dedicated tourist train mentioned earlier) makes very brief, scheduled stops for sightseeing. A first-class ticket will cost approximately Rs 7000 ($40). Second class is about Rs 5000 ($29) and third-class reserved tickets are roughly Rs 4000 ($23).
Feeling peckish on board? These trains typically sell food and drink, from bottled beverages to small local delicacies, such as samosas, fish cakes and roti, as well as fresh fruit, such as mango, guava, and pineapple. However, it’s best to take some water and a few snacks before you hop on, just in case there aren’t many vendors on your train.
There are other, regular local trains that travel between Kandy and Ella which are actually quicker, such as the Podi Menike and Udarata Menike. Fewer tourists go on these and seats are more affordable; Rs 2500 ($14.5) for first class and Rs 1200 ($7) for third-class reserved seats. Whether you choose a tourist train or a local train, both have compelling reasons to hop aboard. It’s really about what you want to prioritise.
Regardless of where you sit, one thing is for sure. You won’t miss out on the views. That goes from a reserved seat to the communal sections between carriages. I found this a fantastic place to stretch my legs (if I had a seat) and meet locals and travellers alike. Be aware that the train doors here are wide open, so caution is needed.
If you’re considering putting the Kandy to Ella train ride on your itinerary, I’m going to leave the rest of the mystery to experience in person. The last thing I’ll say is get ready for an unforgettable ride.
The writer travelled at their own expense.