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Home / Travel

Spain: The barter of Seville

Anna Leask
By Anna Leask
Senior Journalist - crime and justice·NZ Herald·
11 Nov, 2014 02:00 AM7 mins to read

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A guided tour in Spain tour can help you find the best local food and produce. Photo / Supplied

A guided tour in Spain tour can help you find the best local food and produce. Photo / Supplied

Surround yourself with the sights and smells of a Spanish summer, writes Anna Leask.

The first thing you need to know about Seville is that it gets hot. Not hot like Madrid - where 30C is considered chilly by the locals - really sweaty, skin meltingly, makeup-dripping-off-your-face hot.

The three days I spent in the capital of Spain's Andalusia region, the temperature rocketed to 40C, minimum. It's a heat that is breathtaking, much like the city of Seville itself.

In heat like this, it can be hard for a visitor to stand upright let alone forge conversations with the locals. So if you want to talk to the people of Seville, play it cool. Mixing in bars at night and engaging with the vendors in the shaded calm of the marketplaces, we got to know the people behind a fabulous city that has long sat near the intersection of great cultures.

Founded by the Romans, the city was taken over in AD712 by the Moors, Muslims from West Africa - making for a rich tapestry of history, culture and architecture. There is no end to things to see, do and eat in Seville. It's a city with charm and atmosphere and when you're there it feels like there is a journey through history around every corner.

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When it comes to history, there are two main "must sees" in Seville and all can be found in the city's Old Town. In an area of just 4sq km you can find three Unesco World Heritage Sites, and they all deserve a thorough visit.

One of those, the Alcazar Palace complex, was the first stop for my Trafalgar Tour group, complete with a local expert to lead us through the majestic rooms and gardens. Similar in style to the Alhambra, Granada's grand palace, the Alcazar is a former Moorish fort and still used by the Spanish Royals when they come to Seville.

The regal site was also revealed as one of the filming locations for the 5th season of Game of Thrones, making the visit even more of a highlight for those of us who followed the show.

The rooms are ornately decorated, each ceiling, arch, floor and doorway adorned with painstakingly detailed handiwork that reminds you of the reign of the Moors. The gardens are spectacular and from each window in the high levels of the palace you can see a different view of the meticulously kept greenery and the city of Seville beyond.

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The Alcazar Palace is a Unesco-listed site in Seville. Photo / Supplied

Just when you think your eyes cannot take in any more of this magnificent city, it's off to see the Seville Cathedral, or Catedral de Santa Maria de la Sede to the locals.

It is the largest Gothic cathedral and third largest church in the world and it is a phenomenal site. Originally a mosque, it was consecrated by the Roman Catholics in 1248 - like so many others in Andalusia - and is another example of the marriage of Moor and Spanish design.

Inside the cathedral you can find the tomb of Christopher Columbus, who had a number of resting places before he was interred within the cool, quiet confines of Seville's grandest church.

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We also made plenty of time to explore Maria Luisa Park, the city's principal green area and former palace grounds. The space was donated to the city in 1893 and is now home to many monuments and fountains. Strolling through the gardens, taking in the sights and smells in the Spanish summer is an easy way to lose a good part of they day.

And then you get to the Plaza de Espana, a stunning building on the edge of the park. Built in a half circle, the Plaza has a moat running around it's perimeter. Accessible by many gorgeously painted and tiled bridges and with a large fountain in the centre the site was like nothing I had seen before.

The lower walls of the plaza are separated into alcoves and each is tiled with representations of the different provinces of Spain. Sadly, each alcove is home to a street merchant trying to hock of cheap castanets - most happy to follow you around click-clacking furiously in your ears in the hopes that you will relent and part with a few Euro.

Seville has a well-deserved reputation as a foodies' paradise. Find a cafe serving the traditional Andalucian breakfast mollete, toasted bread topped with olive oil, crushed tomatoes and garlic and then try a late lunch of traditional Spanish tapas. Compulsory during a visit to Southern Spain is gazpacho, a cold and refreshing soup, espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chick peas), a dish with Moorish origins, and slices of jamon - traditionally cured Andalucian ham.

There are also many mercados (markets) around the central city where the more adventurous traveller can buy their own fresh seafood, meat and produce and do tapas DIY style.

The mercado is also the best place to mix with the locals. Have a go at bantering - and bartering - with the salespeople.

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Another absolute must in Seville is a flamenco show. The city is the home of the dance and a trip to Andalusia without experiencing the furious, passionate and loud dance is unthinkable.

We attended an outstanding show at El Patio. Fast-paced, dramatic and lively, the show gives you a great taste of what flamenco is all about.

Jamon on display at a Seville market. Photo / Supplied

Once you're done with sightseeing and dancing, there is one thing left to do in Seville - eat and drink.

I highly recommend a trip to El Rinconcillo, the city's oldest tapas bar housed in a converted convent. The decor takes you back to old Seville and the food makes you never want to leave southern Spain.

As a tour option, most of our group dined on El Rinconcillo's divine tapas, paired with glorious local wine and freshly made sangria.

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Ham, or jamon, is big in Spain and that was our starter. Fried eggplant, salted cod, pork cheeks and flan followed and we were left barely able to get down the stairs we were so stuffed.

The Spanish do food - and the eating of it - very well. It was the Trafalgar guide's job to source the best local food for group dinners and our trip leader Jason made sure we ate well.

For those who like a bit of nightlife, we found a great area in Seville to drink, dance and play the night away. Flanked by two Americans and with Euros to spend we headed to Calle Betis, a street that runs along the river and is home to countless bars, tapas restaurants and usually packed with people.

The night begins late along the river, with most people venturing out from around midnight. But there is plenty to see and do before then - including trying tinto de verrano, or summer wine. A bit like sangria but without the fruit and lemon fizz or Fanta based rather than soda water, this cool drink is just what you need to end a 40C day in Seville.

CHECKLIST

Explore more: Trafalgar's Highlights of Spain and Portugal tour runs for 13 days, starting and finishing in Madrid and taking in the Alhambra Palace, the Hanging Houses of Cuenca, the port of Cadiz and vibrant cities like Valencia and Lisbon. It is priced from $2595 a person twin share with early payment discounts of 10 per cent available for bookings and payments prior to December 18. Departure dates from April next year. Includes sightseeing, local guides, accommodation, many meals, transport, airport transfers and the services of a travel director.

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The writer travelled to Spain and Portugal courtesy of Trafalgar.

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