Thrillseekers and art lovers alike can enjoy this hilltop Spanish treasure, writes Annie Bennett.
WHEN TO GO In autumn, the evening sky in Toledo is streaked with the blues, greys and pinks that feature in El Greco's paintings. Warm rather than stifling temperatures make this the most pleasant time of yearto explore the tightly packed hilltop city. Carriers connecting straight to Madrid with one stop from Auckland include Cathay Pacific, Emirates, China Southern, United Airlines, American Airlines and Qatar. Regular trains to Toledo take 33 minutes (renfe.com). See toledo-turismo.com for more information.
STAY HERE The just-opened Boutique Hotel Adolfo has 12 stylish rooms overlooking the Plaza de Zocodover and an excellent restaurant. Doubles from $425 including breakfast and dinner. In a hidden square near the cathedral, the elegant five-star Eugenia de Montijo Autograph Collection is a bargain luxury option, with doubles from $210, including breakfast.
WALK HERE Getting lost in the winding cobbled lanes is an essential experience in Toledo — the streets north of San Ildefonso church around Santa Clara convent are particularly atmospheric — but also go down to the river Tagus to walk around the tranquil river path that links the Alcantara and San Martin bridges.
SEE THIS The magnificent Toledo Cathedral was begun in the 13th century. Its many highlights include El Greco's The Disrobing of Christ in the sacristy. Admission $17.
TRY THIS Thrillseekers can whizz across the river Tagus on a zip wire — 175m in 20 seconds — from the San Martin bridge with Fly Toledo ($17).
SHOP HERE You can buy marzipan and traditional pastries made by nuns at several convents, including Santa Isabel de los Reyes. El Rincon del Arte (Martin Gamero 7) sells artisanal gifts inspired by the work of Spanish artists.
DRINK HERE Take in the view of the surrounding countryside with a beer ($5) or a cocktail ($10) at the Terraza del Miradero (Paseo del Miradero) on the esplanade just below Plaza de Zocodover.
EAT HERE Rest your feet in the secret garden at La Clandestina (Tendillas 3) where a three-course lunch costs $29, including a glass of wine. Book ahead for exquisite Toledan cuisine at Adolfo (Hombre de Palo 7), in a 12th-century building. Go for the 10-course taster menu ($127 without wine).
OFF THE MAP Just outside the city walls, the Hospital de Tavera (Duque de Lerma 2) was built in the 16th century and contains paintings by El Greco, Zurbaran and Luca Giordano ($10).
