At the camp we were greeted by Geoff, given a quick introduction over a brew, and shown to our rooms. Technically, these were tents, but not your usual 2x2m pop-up job from the Kathmandu sale. These were huge canvas houses enclosing two bedrooms, a bathroom, toilet, deck and solar electricity. So long as I remembered to pump the water five times to flush the loo and 20 times for a shower, I was in bliss. A four-poster bed graced the master bedroom, with lavish linen and animal hides on the floor.
From the comfort and safety of my tent I could enjoy the wildlife without worrying about anything slipping under my duvet at night.
Sarah's luxurious tent at the Gawler Ranges Wilderness Safaris camp. Photo / Sarah Ivey
After touring the camp we boarded our 4WD and headed off into the late-afternoon sunshine.
This is the time when animals come out to play. Driving along the dirt track, it didn't matter which direction we looked; families of kangaroos hopped wild; large packs of emus scattered, their bottoms bouncing up and down as they shook their tail feathers and headed into the distance.
This is also bushfire country: charred stumps are a constant reminder of the grim, life-threatening reality of a hot, dry climate.
Jade pulled on the handbrake and ordered us out of the truck. We'd arrived at an organ pipe formation, a simply stunning scene, with the unpolluted sounds of nature interrupted only by the towering red rocks that glowed brighter as the sun set.
Local wines filled our palates, as well as creamy French cheeses and condiments. We laughed and joked as the group got to know each other, chatting and telling yarns of previous travels. We agreed on one thing - none of us had seen a landscape quite like this.
On the drive back to camp the kangaroos were well into their evening routine and indulging in familiar creature comforts, some even sleeping on the gravel road.
Photos: Outback South Australia
Kangaroos in the Outback. Photo / Sarah Ivey
Next morning, our truck crested the brow of a hill to a take in a landscape of spectacular white expanse. The salt water Lake Gairdner stretched as far as the eye could see to the right, captured by burned red hills to the left.
Land speed events are sometimes held here but today there was nobody else to be seen or heard, for miles. And more miles.
We jumped around on the lake and took perspective shots of tiny people in the distance, seemingly standing in someone's hand, in an attempt to nail the next Facebook profile pic.
I watched as one industrious bloke scratched around in the salt: perhaps he was looking for an explanation as to how such a vast expanse of snow-white salt ended up in the middle of the Outback.
The author at Lake Gairdner. Photo / Sarah Ivey
Eating lunch proved a challenge as flies swarmed around. Jade came to the rescue with a special cream to wipe on our skin, the rescue remedy of the Outback.
Back at camp that evening, Geoff built a bonfire. His meals were culinary delights and after yet another was served up, the entertainment turned out to be us, after far too many bottles of wine ... We sat around the fire, telling stories and learning of both good and bad times that others had endured. We bonded as a group of people from all over the globe, and over a shared love for adventure.
Sunset at Gawler Ranges Wilderness Safaris. Photo / Sarah Ivey
The next morning offered the promise of another glorious day as we gathered in the open-sided dining room. I was halfway through my eggs when three emu heads appeared.
We stayed quiet and still as, one by one, they came closer, moving slowly towards a water trough Geoff had installed a few years ago. They drank for what seemed an eternity as we watched in amazement, cameras snapping frantically. After they left, Geoff told us the emus come into the camp looking for water when their natural sources dry up.
Back in the truck again, we ventured off on another day trip, stopping at historical homesteads, rock formations and wombat holes. The indigenous people apparently lure wombats out to kill them for food by peeing at the entrance to their burrows.
Emus stop for a drink from the water trough at the camp. Photo / Sarah Ivey
We walked up rock faces, watching for snakes, and soaked in the Outback sun, thankful it was the mild season and not the searing January sun.
Sunset drinks at Sturt's Lake, a smaller salt lake just five minutes from camp, were the perfect way to top off the trip.
I sipped my shiraz, wondering at my luck in visiting such a place. A 'roo bounced across the salt flat with the sun setting behind and I smiled to myself.
As I closed my eyes to contemplate the scene, I realised I couldn't possibly have imagined a more cliche ending.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Adelaide 4-7 days a week.
What to do: Gawler Ranges Wilderness Safaris offers a range of Outback experiences.
Further information: See southaustralia.co.nz and australia.com.
Sarah Ivey is a former New Zealand Herald photographer. She travelled as a guest of Air New Zealand, Tourism Australia and South Australia Tourism.
