NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

South Africa: Tracing my grandfather's incarceration

Herald online
1 Nov, 2011 12:30 AM5 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

The former Breakwater Prison in Cape Town, South Africa, now houses a luxury hotel and a tertiary institution. Photo / Creative Commons image by Flickr user Pandrcutts

The former Breakwater Prison in Cape Town, South Africa, now houses a luxury hotel and a tertiary institution. Photo / Creative Commons image by Flickr user Pandrcutts

Opinion by

Prison tours are not an uncommon form of holiday diversion - Alcatraz in San Francisco, Port Arthur in Tasmania, Robben Island off the coast of South Africa. All attract thousands of visitors a year.

But the former Breakwater Prison in Cape Town, just a few minutes' walk from the rejuvenated Victoria and Alfred* Waterfront, isn't high up on the list of must-see prisons.

It's no mouldering ruin, however, but has been transformed into a luxury hotel and a tertiary institution; which is why the receptionist was a little surprised when I arrived recently, not to book in, but to see where my grandfather had been incarcerated.

I need to point out, as I did promptly to the receptionist, that my grandfather was not of the murdering, molesting or generally malevolent kind of criminal.

He was a Kiwi who'd volunteered to fight in the Boer War, setting sail from Lyttelton along with his horse. He had also lied about his age, so got to celebrate his 18th birthday in Cape Town.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Already a busy port enlivened by traffic to and from the gold and diamond mines inland, the influx of troops from Britain and its colonies would have ensured the city had all the essentials for a riotously good celebration.

No-one seem to know exactly what grandfather did to get arrested for disorderly conduct but whatever it was meant at least a one-night stay in the Breakwater Prison, which at the time was designated for white male prisoners who had committed relatively minor misdemeanours.

The walls and round towers of Breakwater are still forbidding today although their fresh paint of off-white makes the building a less depressing sight than would have confronted my hungover grandfather.

But inside, there's no hiding this hotel's origins.

There are the long inner courtyards overlooked by walls several storeys high, off which are doors into rooms that are unmistakably cell-like.

Discover more

Travel

South Africa: A walk on the wild side

21 Jul 04:00 PM
Travel

South Africa: When night falls, lions are kings

24 Jul 04:00 PM
Travel

South Africa: Cheers, big ears

14 Jul 05:30 PM
Travel

Up close and caged with killer crocs

30 Aug 05:30 PM

Today, the central courtyard has a fountain, trees and flowers - no doubt it looked less like a welcoming oasis more than a century ago.

The receptionist-turned-guide took us out of the main prison precinct to show us something my grandfather would not have been subjected to. Before the prison was segregated for only white prisoners, black convicts had also been housed here.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Recalcitrant prisoners were forced to spend eight hours a day on the treadmill, a cruel punishment device that has been retained at the end of what was a row of isolation cells.

It looks rather like a water wheel but instead of water powering its revolutions, prisoners were forced to spend their days treading its steps. If they slacked off, the next step would lacerate their ankles. They were given only five minutes' rest an hour.

The treadmill was constructed in 1890 but fell into disuse after the prison was gradually converted to white-only convicts. This followed an explosion in white offenders, most of whom were guilty of IDB (illegal diamond buying).

A wall beside the treadmill and the isolation cells is inscribed with the names of some of the prisoners. There was no sign of my grandfather's name - maybe he wasn't incarcerated long enough to do so.

I have no idea where he did his carousing but it could well have been around the Victoria and Alfred basins, which form part of the V and A Waterfront, now one of Cape Town's most popular destinations for visitors and locals.

If he could see it now he'd be stunned by the transformation from what was a typical working port to a precinct of upmarket restaurants, cafes and boutiques.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Some guide books are a bit sniffy about the V and A (presumably for the same reason that some critics turn their noses up at any film or book that proves particularly popular), however I enjoyed it, not least because it is still an active harbour. Sure, much of the water traffic is cruise vessels but there are also fishing boats and tugs chugging in and out.

One of the best places to watch harbour life is beside the 1883 Clock Tower, where a pedestrian bridge swings across the water on request as ships pass back and forth.

When there are no vessels on the move, watch out for the local colony of seals who sunbathe on rocks and tyres nearby, or float on their backs in the shipping basins, lazily flapping their flippers.

Near the Clock Tower is the ferry terminal for trips to Robben Island, where former president Nelson Mandela was imprisoned for 27 years.

Keep in mind if you plan to make this journey it is one of the most popular activities in Cape Town so is often fully booked and is also subject to sea conditions. All sailings were cancelled the day we'd planned to go and there were no tickets left on our back-up day.

Although the V and A now attracts more overseas visitors than any other location in South Africa it is clearly also popular with the locals - of all hues and ethnicities. There are buskers, too, including gospel choirs and traditional African musicians.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

If you visit, allow enough time to both take time to watch the world go by in the cafes and bars and to listen to the music. There are also some great shops selling African crafts and art work - if this is your only stop in Africa you'll find almost everything you could want here - from delicate bead bracelets to two-metre-tall wooden giraffes.

There's also a novel twist to experiencing African wildlife, if you're not squeamish or vegetarian.

One restaurant specialises in southern African cuisine- and that means not only great beef but also ostrich, impala and springbok.

The latter, for a passionate All Blacks supporter pre-the World Cup, was apparently especially delicious.

* It really is Alfred - it is named after Queen Victoria's second son.

Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Herald NOW

Winter travel trends to escape the cold weather

New Zealand

'Read our travel advice': MFAT urges travellers to regularly check news for updates

23 Jun 06:42 AM
Premium
Opinion

Disneyland Aotearoa: Is it a dream worth considering?

23 Jun 03:00 AM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Winter travel trends to escape the cold weather

Winter travel trends to escape the cold weather

Herald Travel writer, Sarah Pollok talks to Ryan Bridge about the latest winter travel trends.

'Read our travel advice': MFAT urges travellers to regularly check news for updates

'Read our travel advice': MFAT urges travellers to regularly check news for updates

23 Jun 06:42 AM
Premium
Disneyland Aotearoa: Is it a dream worth considering?

Disneyland Aotearoa: Is it a dream worth considering?

23 Jun 03:00 AM
Kiwi chef reveals most surprising foodie region in Aotearoa

Kiwi chef reveals most surprising foodie region in Aotearoa

21 Jun 06:00 PM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP