Something to yodel about in Rotorua

SANDRA PATERSON manages to pamper herself, even with child in tow.

I'd been hesitant about staying in an upmarket lodge with a 4-year-old, especially with no husband along to help keep her from disturbing guests.

But within 30 seconds of arriving at Swiss Lodge, Claudia was given a piece of bread and taken outside to feed the swans. Clearly, I thought, these people are child-friendly and this is going to be good.

By 6.30pm I had upgraded "good" to "great". We were up to our necks in a steaming spa pool less than a metre from the glassy waters of Lake Rotorua. With cabbage trees silhouetted against a dusk sky and the lights of the city twinkling across the lake, it was about as perfect as a spa could be.

Tired from the excitement of it all, Claudia was soon tucked up in bed and I went down to the warm, cosy dining room. The source of the warmth - and a major talking point - was a large, freestanding fireplace made of Finnish soapstone.

Swiss Lodge has several Tulikivi stoves, as they are called. One in the penthouse weighs 2.4 tonnes and has a pizza oven built into the side. The stoves radiate heat for up to 24 hours after burning a fire for just an hour or so.

The only other guests that night were a friendly Australian family. The chef had the night off so the manager, Heiko Kaiser, cooked our three-course meal. "Just wait till morning," said the Australian couple's daughter. "His blueberry pancakes are the best."

It was not surprising to hear that many guests become friends with Kaiser and his wife, Christina. At 10pm we were still sitting at the table laughing at their story about Finnish guests who once ran naked across the lawn from the sauna to the lake.

The Kaisers, who are German, had experience at Puka Park, Hotel de Vin and De Redcliffe Winery, and were considered young but well qualified to run the lodge for its Swiss owners, who live overseas. Now in their early 30s, the Kaisers are fabulous hosts - efficient, laidback and relaxed.

The lodge has four separate buildings, which means couples wanting a quiet, romantic weekend can be accommodated at the same time as families, with no one disturbing anyone else. One of the buildings is a beautifully decorated, self-contained chalet which sleeps six adults.

With Lockwood-style walls and ceilings, brightly coloured duvets and gleaming white en suites, the bedrooms all have lake views, and fairy lights twinkle in the trees. The rimu beds with imported European mattresses are supremely comfortable.

One day I'd love to come sans child and stay in the princess-like, four-poster bed in the penthouse. With a designer kitchen, the aforementioned magnificent Finnish fireplace and a top-storey view to die for, the penthouse would be hard to leave.

There's plenty to drag you outdoors, though. Take a floatplane for a scenic flight, hail a trout-fishing guide or take a boat through to the natural hot pools on the shores of Lake Rotoiti.

Then there's the massage room, complimentary green fees at the nearby golf course, and the veritable smorgasbord of activity that is Rotorua just down the road.

* Sandra Paterson was a guest of Swiss Lodge.

Where to find it:

Swiss Lodge

Heiko and Christina Kaiser

207-209 Kawaha Pt Rd, Rotorua

Ph (07) 348 5868

email stay@swisslodge.co.nz

What it costs:

Tariffs range from $229 a night for a standard room to $329 for the penthouse.

Self-contained chalet $399 to $479. Extra child on cot/stretcher $35.

All prices include continental breakfast buffet. Minimum of two nights for penthouse and chalet. Not every room has TV.

Extras: Finnish sauna $20; laundry $10.

Special deals:

15 per cent discount now till end of September.

Weekend package $279 a person includes two nights, sauna, cooked breakfast, bottle of wine plus four-course dinner Saturday night.

Other packages include adventure activities, massage, golf lessons.

Getting there:

Swiss Lodge is 2.5 hours' drive from Auckland, 20 minutes from Rotorua airport, $10 taxi to city centre.

Kawaha Pt Rd comes off SH5, the main road into Rotorua from Hamilton/Auckland.

Access: Not designed for wheelchair access.

Smoking: No smoking anywhere inside.

What's good?

The lakeside spa pool, the hosts, Heiko Kaiser's blueberry pancakes, and flexibility - a family weekend or romantic getaway.

What's not so good?

With water activities and such an inviting spa pool, more than one towel each would be great.

Food:

Heiko Kaiser was once a chef (and butcher) and turned out an excellent meal on the regular chef's night off. For starters we had smoked salmon and avocado salad with pumpkin-seed oil dressing, followed by roast lamb rack cooked with special spices imported by the Kaisers.

For dessert, Kaiser (who manages to cook and entertain at the same time) whipped up a zabaglione, served in tall glasses over fruit and icecream.

As for breakfast, the young Australian was right - the blueberry pancakes have become the standard by which all pancakes shall be measured. Also available is a substantial fisherman's breakfast and omelettes. Cooked breakfast (includes continental) $23.50, dinner by arrangement $56.