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Home / Travel

Snow zones at their peak

By Claudia Riegler
NZ Herald·
9 Sep, 2009 12:00 AM10 mins to read

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Vail is the largest ski area in the US and there is terrain for all abilities. Photo / Jack Affleck

Vail is the largest ski area in the US and there is terrain for all abilities. Photo / Jack Affleck

The best thing about skiing is that no matter what your level, you never stop exploring. Whether it's the resort itself, different slopes, new terrain, exciting bars and restaurants or simply the magnificent views from the top of the mountain.

I have skied in different resorts all over the world since I was 10. Because I have been so spoilt for choice I am quite critical when it comes to ski resorts.

I always judge resorts, firstly, from a pure skiing point of view that includes the variety of skiable terrain, the possibility of good powder, easy access to the slopes and modern lift facilities.

Second comes the prospect of great restaurants, huts and chalets for a stop to get your energy back. And third is great accommodation, preferably on the slopes, with wellness centres and spas attached.

Choosing the right time of the season to ski is crucial. Personally I like going skiing in spring. Crisp mornings with hard-packed powder on groomed trails plus a big chance of fresh powder are irresistible.

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But the best thing about spring skiing is the nice sunny days. Snow conditions are usually still great and lead to cruisy afternoons in the sun. Having a glass of wine on a nice deck with some friends surrounded by incredible scenery is hard to beat.

It is hard to pick my favourite 10 resorts in the world but maybe my experiences will help you single out your next ski holiday destination.

My favourite resorts in Canada are definitely Whistler and Lake Louise. Taking the Sea-to-the-Sky highway from Vancouver to Whistler is an amazing trip by itself - the name says it all.

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Over the past four or five years a lot of work has been done on the road in preparation for the 2010 Winter Olympics with a resultant 30-minute saving on the drive.

Whistler offers amazing on and off-piste terrain and brilliant powder skiing on either Whistler Mountain or Blackcomb. There is a new gondola that links Blackcomb with Whistler Mountain - spectacular and convenient.

I love Whistler because it has a great vibe to it. You will find great cafes offering a variety of healthy food, great soups, and other yummy stuff. Of course, there are plenty of sophisticated restaurants with gourmet dining as well. One of my favourite restaurants is the Tratt (Trattoria di Umberto), an Italian restaurant which is actually run by an Austrian. Don't be scared, the food and service are divine.

Other great places to eat are the Red Rock cafe, but make sure to book as it's very popular, and for those of you who love sushi and Japanese food, try Sushi Village. The locals love it and they are known for the best strawberry margaritas in town.

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For my favourite US resorts, check out Park City/Deer Valley, and of course Aspen and Vail. I have been in these resorts several times over the past few years, mostly for World Cup competitions and the Olympic Games in 2002. I have great memories of Park City where I finished 1st and 3rd in the World Cup Slalom... and Aspen for the best French toast ever and Thanksgiving dinner at the St Regis.

Vail is the largest ski area in the US so there really is terrain for all abilities from the gentle rolling front slopes to the powder deep bowls and glade runs at Blue Sky Basin. Vail boasts that on an average day there are only two skiers per acre, and on a busy day only four.

As for the nightlife, the apres ski enticements are considerable, as it is a great place to people watch. Perhaps The Club's slogan sums it up, "If you don't come to party, don't (expletive) come."

If you have enough time to combine the three resorts, start with Vail then Aspen and drive on to Park City/Deer Valley. Stop for a night in Moab on the way through. It's a mind-blowing place that is also known for the most spectacular mountain biking in Colorado.

Deer Valley is full of amazing houses with heated driveways, which are fun to see while riding the chairlifts, not to mention all the fantastic skiing around the area.

For talent spotting and apres ski go to the Troll Hatten Lounge at the Stein Eriksen Lodge. It's owned by the 80-something Norwegian Olympic medallist, Stein Eriksen, who is there almost every day in a different Bogner suit. You can spot him by his distinctive white mane and if you keep your eyes open you'll also see other interesting people, including politicians and film stars.

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If you are a powder fanatic don't miss out on Japan.

The biggest snowfall in two days that I have ever experienced was in Shigakogen, Japan. I was there competing at the 1998 Olympic Games and it snowed so much that we were stuck in the hotel. I couldn't even see out of my hotel window.

The next day the powder was unreal. Not the best for racing for an Olympic Slalom - but that's another story. Japan was a great experience and on top of that, I love Japanese food. Keep your hands off the sake though, it really hits home fast making for a long ski day to follow.

I grew up skiing in Austria around the Salzburg region where there are so many ski resorts within an hour's drive from the city.

If you prefer the ski-in and ski-out scenario you'd obviously choose one of the resorts like Gastein. Enjoy a whole day skiing and relax in one of the thermal spa places in the town.

You can also practise some "Kneipp rituals"; first you do roly polys in the snow in your togs and then jump into the hot pools as fast as you can. It's soooo stimulating... and good fun of course.

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An Amadee lift pass gives you a choice of ski resorts all within the area, either connected by lifts or only a short drive away.

If you love classical music I suggest you come to Salzburg at Christmas time when the Christmas markets are really worth having a look at. Even though there are plenty of concerts all year round, the city at Christmas is just magic and a totally different experience from New Zealand.

While you are in Austria, take in Kitzbuhel, just an hour's drive from Salzburg, one of the most famous ski resorts in the world. It hosts the renowned Hahnenkamm World Cup downhill and slalom races at the end of January every year.

The lifts are a bit older compared to other Austrian resorts but its flair is unique, the views are spectacular and with all the first class Austrian style hotels, Kitzbuhel has become the place for many European jetsetters.

From there, drive on to St Anton am Arlberg for lots of great powder skiing and big parties at night. Anneliese Coberger used to spend her Northern Hemisphere winters there.

Make sure you visit the Moosewirt when skiing in St Anton for the best apres skiing in the world. By 4pm on any afternoon there's usually a thousand pairs of skis stuck in the snow outside the Moosewirt, a place notorious for its high octane combination of Fohrenburg beer, ear splitting rock 'n' roll and dancing on the table tops in ski boots. Don't expect a quiet drink at the bar there.

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My favourite spot for breathtaking views and amazing skiing is the Dolomites in Italy. Whether you go to Cortina d'Ampezzo, Val Gardena or Madonna di Campiglio every resort is stunning.

You will experience real European skiing without bumping into too much mass tourism. You could say you get the German organisation with the Italian flair and food, plus endless kilometres of groomed open slopes.

If you go to Alta Badia or Val Gardena you can ski the Sellaronda. It is a circuit around a central mountain going through four ski areas and can take all day, stopping off at one of the many restaurants on the way.

Then there's the Marmolada. Riding this gondola system is an experience on its own. If you don't feel uncomfortable skiing down, it's pretty steep, but well groomed, then you can take the gondola down. If you have a 2009 NZSki, Treble Cone or Cardrona season pass you can get 50 per cent off a lift pass at Val Gardena and access to the whole Sellaronda area.

Madonna di Campiglio on the other hand offers great hotels, excellent shopping, as well as lots of groomed slopes, great dining and amazing views.

One great experience you definitely should not miss out on is to go to Chamonix, in France, sometime in your life. I recommend a good level of skiing if you really want to enjoy your stay there to the max.

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If you like exploring and adventures I would hire a guide for the day and ask to be shown the Vallee Blanch. It's a breathtaking experience from start to finish. The cable cars like the Aiguille du Midi and Brevent are worth a ride. They're simply amazing, but only for the strong-hearted.

You can now buy an Unlimited ski pass that includes not only Chamonix but also Verbier (Switzerland) and Courmayeur (Italy).

For great apres ski and live music go to the Micro brewery or to the Chambre Neuf near the train station.

Chamonix's apres-ski has a metropolitan feel, with English, Swedish and French bars. For a more quiet and relaxed apres ski and dinner go to the Cabane restaurant at the golf course, which has a superb interior and food. You will want to come back for more.

You might think I would have grown tired of skiing after all these years on the World Cup circuit and being on the road all the time. But you can always discover new places and keep improving your skiing no matter what your level is to start with, and you can share your passion for skiing with family and friends.

Basically, skiing is an adults' version of Disneyland with all the things that grownups want to do in one place.

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Enjoy your winter in New Zealand and get ready for an amazing ski holiday abroad and always remember that while apres golf can mean going to see a psychologist, apres skiing is more like dancing your socks off and enjoying the good time.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Ski Traveller is a specialist ski travel agency located at 333 Remuera Road in Auckland. It is staffed by skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts and uses Claudia Riegler as a global snow adviser. Call 0800 11 22 99.

Claudia Riegler spent 10 years on the international World Cup circuit skiing slalom. In that time she represented New Zealand at three Olympic Winter Games, five World Championships, and was ranked second overall in the 1996-97 World Cup Slalom Standings, the highest ranking ever for a Kiwi. Claudia was New Zealand team attache for the Turin 2006 Winter Olympics.

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