The Western Algarve in Portugal is home to Burros & Artes donkey walks and pottery. Photo / Lachlan Campbell
Slow tourism emphasises the connection between travellers and the local way of life at your destination. If you love nature and animals, the Algarve may be the ideal place to switch off and slow down, writes Alix Campbell.
There’s something soothing about exploring the scrubland of Amoreiras Valley in the Western Algarve - less than a 10-minute drive from the town of Aljezur - with a gentle four-legged companion like Kiko, Emilia, or Kali. You might stop to touch the coarse bark of a cork tree or smell some wild-growing rosemary. Your furry hiking partner, who’s always walking at a leisurely pace, really appreciates being fed apple and carrot snacks along the way.
In 2019, I joined Sofia and some of her staff on a moonlight donkey hike into the surrounding hills topped off by a wine and cheese-fuelled picnic. The full moon hid behind a thick layer of clouds that night. Thankfully, my new best friend Kiko knew his way back home in the dark without a problem.
Arriving at this little sanctuary again in 2023, I know to head to the shelter with the adjacent farmhouse. Sofia, the German half of the female-led Burros & Artes duo, welcomes my husband and me. She’s sitting at a wooden table on the patio finishing a cup of coffee in the company of Steffi, who’s been helping with daily donkey care duties for the last five years.
A few metres away in the grass lies Mocca, one of the 18 rescue donkeys on the farm who has problems walking due to abuse in the past. “He must have known you’re coming today to take photos,” Sofia smiles. “That’s why he picked this spot for his nap.” Mocca’s sponsors will arrive shortly from Stuttgart, Germany, and they will stay for nine weeks to tend to his specific needs. This happens twice a year.
Later, as we’re strolling over to the stables to greet the donkeys, Elsa - the Portuguese half of Burros & Artes - joins us. “Everyone thought we were just two crazy ladies,” she chuckles. “They still do,” Sofia chimes in. Now it’s been 15 years since they embarked on this journey. It’s been even longer since Sofia’s parents, who still live on the farm, acquired the first three donkeys in 2003.
“The donkeys are in the centre of our lives here,” Elsa says. “They allow us to work with our hands and our heart.” André, Elsa’s son, agrees. He traded his job in Aljezur in order to work on the farm. He also followed in his mother’s footsteps and picked up pottery. André's laid-back demeanour mirrors that of the rest of the crew. For mother and son, the preservation of traditional crafts is important. Next to Burros & Artes, Elsa also teaches pottery for adults, children, and families from nearby Aljezur.
Elsa has positioned herself behind the pottery wheel, a simple wooden structure. The original red paint has worn off over the years. A little ladder on the side helps children climb up and sit on the table next to the wheel. “I’m their feet, as they can’t reach that far,” Elsa explains. While she talks, a small red bowl swiftly takes shape in her clay-specked hands, mesmerising everyone in our little group.
“It’s a bit like magic”, Elsa smiles. “I believe that clay has its own energy,” André adds that the vessel you create can depend on your mood of the day. “Whether you feel a bit closed-off or more open-minded, your bowl might just reflect your current state,” he says. In general, visitors enjoy the calm, peaceful surroundings and that life seems to happen at a slower pace around here.
A way to get a taste of everything Burros & Artes has to offer is to book their VIP tour, which consists of a donkey walk followed by a pottery workshop. Groups are limited to a maximum of eight people. A smaller number of guests means that visitors can enjoy more one-on-one time with the donkeys.
Another well-booked experience is the 1.5-hour guided donkey walk, which is perfect if you’re on a busy holiday schedule. Longer donkey day treks can take from four up to eight hours inland or along the coast, and you can choose between guided and self-guided hikes.
A multi-day donkey hike Sofia instantly remembered was in the company of three kind-hearted women from New Zealand in 2017. This experience stayed with her, also due to the thoughtful gifts the guests presented her with: A copy of The Wonky Donkey, by New Zealander Craig Smith, and a photo book of New Zealand.
Elsa and Sofia hope to leave their guests with special memories too. Steffi mentions that the team can often see a transformation taking place, especially in timid children, which is very rewarding. Spending time in nature and seeing how the donkeys respond to them during the walk brings out their potential and strengthens their self-confidence.
Some of the rescue donkeys really impress Sofia with how far they’ve come. Kiko, one of the males, has settled in nicely and is very tender with guests, especially the younger ones. He was found tied up in the woods, left to starve to death. “He’s still afraid of sticks and narrow paths, but he doesn’t let it stop him during hikes,” Sofia adds proudly, giving me the sense that she might just have a particular soft spot for this determined donkey.
When it comes to the future of Burros & Artes, Sofia would like to open a donkey hospital at some point. For now, however, they’ve added shepherding – walk and graze to their list of experiences. Just like the rest of their offers, it highlights simplicity, a love for animals and nature, and tradition. You’ll be able to spend time with donkeys in a meadow, where you can read, paint, meditate or just relax with them as they graze.
“It’s all about slowing down, reconnecting with nature and with yourself,” André says. “You must be present when you walk alongside your four-legged companion, and also when you’re working with clay.”
To find out more about Burros & Artes, see burrosartes.com
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