Today, Singapore is home to 5.4 million people and, thanks to a thriving economy, there's a real sense of prosperity. Tourists pass through on their way to more far-flung destinations, but with a host of architectural wonders, historical treasures, nature reserves and a Grand Prix circuit, there's plenty to keep them here. There's also the excellent restaurant and shopping scene ... Here, enjoying yourself is a national pastime.
But those planning on sightseeing should take note: by day, a folding fan, umbrella and a pair of rubber flats are a girl's best friend. One degree north of the equator, the constant heat (31C is average), intense humidity and short, sharp, tropical showers are minor irritants when moving around the island.
Fortunately, most attractions are within easy reach of my base, the Ritz-Carlton Millenia in the downtown Colonial District.
I'm a short taxi ride from the designer stores that line Orchard Road and the narrow streets of Chinatown, Little India and Kampong Glam.
As I enter the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple in Chinatown, I'm greeted by the strong smell of incense. Inspired by the architecture of the Tang Dynasty, this building houses a sacred tooth among its treasures and was completed and gilded in 2007.
Beyond the shopping districts lies the Singapore Flyer, one of the world's largest observation wheels, and the Helix Bridge, which spirals across the bay and lights up like a Christmas tree at night.
Light, air, mirrors and moving water are some of the feng shui elements reflected in the 32-storey Ritz-Carlton, which is framed by a 2.8ha garden oasis.
The hotel's Greenhouse restaurant serves one of the best Sunday brunches I've ever indulged in. Locals book weeks in advance and put on their designer Sunday best to enjoy a constant flow of Louis Roederer vintage 2007 rosé and brut Champagne, while feasting on tiger prawns, oysters, sushi, sashimi, lobster, charcuterie, foie gras, traditional roasts, pasta, a choice of more than 50 cheeses and a pantry of fine pastries and desserts.
Eating out is an adventure in Singapore, and some of the best experiences can be enjoyed in the cheapest places on the street. I sample all sorts of weird and wonderful dishes at Makansutra Gluttons Bay, a waterfront hawker centre filled with street vendors.
Sitting on wooden benches, we eat chilli crab, spicy fried noodles and satay, all washed down with cold beer, as rollerbladers whizz along the quay.
Afterwards we head up 63 floors to 1-Altitude, the world's highest al fresco bar where the air is refreshingly cool and the vibe relaxed.
Another great night-time illumination can be found at the Gardens By The Bay. Vertical plant displays known as Supertrees pave the way to a giant Flower Dome and Cloud Forest. We visit during the day, exploring two air-conditioned conservatories where you can learn about the wonders of the plant world, marvel at exotic orchid displays and enjoy all-day dining at nine different venues.
But to truly experience Singapore's glamorous and colonial heritage, I make the pilgrimage to Raffles Singapore for a Singapore Sling in the Long Bar.
It's a good way to toast Singapore and its irrepressible sense of fun.
IF YOU GO
Getting there with Qantas: Travel via Australia to Singapore from Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch. Enjoy food, wine, entertainment and a generous checked luggage allowance plus you could also earn Qantas Points.
