Singapore: Melting pot of life

This city-state has come a long way from its swampy roots as a banana republic. Photo / Supplied

Singapore thrives on its fascinating mix of races and customs, writes Tori Mayo.

As I look up at the towering buildings in Singapore's thriving business district, while trying to breathe through a thick blanket of humidity, there's a tangible buzz in the air.

This thriving island city-state has come a long way from its swampy roots as a banana republic. In 1819 it became a British colony and - thanks to statesman Sir Thomas Raffles - a pivotal trading post between Asia and the West.

Since gaining independence in 1965, Singapore's star has continued to rise.

Mangrove swamps have made way for a concrete jungle of condos, glitzy shopping malls and slick skyscrapers. The 19th-century warehouses lining the Singapore River at Clarke Quay, where junks once moored, now boast a merry mix of modern and traditional bars, clubs and restaurants.

Dempsey Hill, a leafy suburb where the British military were once based, is now an ultra-hip hang-out with army barracks converted into galleries. But Singapore is not just an urban metropolis. Sentosa, a mini island, linked to the main island by a causeway and cable car, is largely covered in secondary rainforest where peacocks and monitor lizards roam free. Attractions include a historic fort, walking trails, golf courses, the Universal Studios Singapore theme park and a popular beach.

Back on the mainland, Singapore's old-world charm is very apparent in the traditional architecture and local way of life. A microcosm of the Far East, the island is home to Chinese, Indian and Malay enclaves.

Walking around Chinatown I come across an area of low red-roofed buildings surrounded by imposing offices. A legacy from the late 18th century, these are shophouses, built to house shopkeepers above their businesses. Their multicoloured elaborate facades add character and charm to the cityscape.

Baba House, on the edge of Chinatown, is a fine re-creation of a 1920s Peranakan shophouse and well worth a visit.

Also fascinating is Little India with its tikka houses, tailors, Hindu temples, markets and arcade stalls. After buying an abundance of Indian bangles and a refreshing mango lassi, I find time for some preening at Queen's Tailoring and Beauty Parlour. For SG$5 ($4.80) my eyebrows are threaded as two tailors fashion garments in the cosy room.

I lunch in Broadcast HQ, a trendy record shop and cafe and tuck into their St-Louis-style ribs in a rum and coke marinade and smoky fries with lime sauce while listening to a podcast mix on wireless headphones.

Eating is a national pastime in Singapore and a visit isn't complete without sampling cuisine from the melting-pot of flavours in a hawker centre. These bustling, canteen-like foodcourts are a more sanitary hybrid of the unregulated market stalls of old.

There are more than 100 on the island, housing a total of 15,000 stalls. For as little as SG$5 diners can choose from Malay, Indonesian, Korean, Thai, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes.

Shopping is another obsession. Residents used to do their shopping in open street markets, where shoe-shiners and sugar cane vendors plied their trade. The first shopping arcade arrived in the 60s and now Orchard Road, Singapore's famous shopping street, is an intimidating maze of malls.

Strangely, British high street staples, Marks & Spencer, H&M and Topshop sell collections here in line with British seasons, irrespective of the Far East climate.

The locals don't seem too worried. As I soon realise, Singapore thrives on embracing variety.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Air NZ, in alliance with Singapore Airlines, flies twice daily to Singapore from Auckland.

Accommodation: Five-star W Singapore Sentosa is on the island of Sentosa.

- AAP