Sightseeing by campervan

By PETER MEECHAM

People call them many things ... campervans, mobile homes, moving roadblocks. When the opportunity came to spend a week in one of these contraptions, we two Southerners decided to tour through the Central North Island where neither of us had spent any length of time.

Even loaded down with fishing gear, mountain bikes and other necessities, the four-berth camper was easy to drive. I had been under the impression that driving a camper would be similar to wrestling with a 4m alligator. As Megan and I travelled down the motorway fellow drivers gave us plenty of room and were courteous - believing that we were either foreign and didn't know where we were, or over the age of 70 and forgetting where we were.

We drove through Paeroa, Mt Maunganui, stopping for the night at Rotorua. In the morning the trails of Whakarewarewa Forest provided hours of fun on mountain bikes, followed by a camper-cooked dinner beside Blue Lake.

We drove around the corner to the Landing at Lake Tarawera where, as Megan read in the comfort of the camper, I put the fly rod to use casting in the darkness in search of the rainbow trout gathering for spawning (always releasing any catch).

Next morning we headed for Kerosene Creek, off a gravel road running off the Rotorua to Taupo Rd. After a short bike ride we immersed ourselves in the warm creek waters. The creek is aptly named, smelling like a vintage tractor show.

That day's itinerary took us through Taupo to Napier, then over the steep terrain to Taihape. It pays not to hurry on this gravel road.

We witnessed a beautiful sunset over the Desert Rd before arriving at Turangi.

When taking a campervan trip you become obsessed with such things as whether campgrounds have dump stations and where you can dispose of your waste water without killing 10 species of native flora and fauna. Turangi Cabins and Holiday Park has both these amenities - as well as a television.

A new day started by exploring the countryside around Mt Ruapehu. Driving up the Whakapapa Ski Area road afforded super views. On the other side of the mountain we stopped at Ohakune and stretched our legs to browse in the shops. Turangi was home for a night.

Being too mean to buy a separate fishing licence for the Taupo district, (Taupo is a DoC managed fishery so requires a different licence from the rest of the country) I had to be content to watch others try their hand on the famous Tongariro river and at the stream mouths around Lake Taupo.

Back in the Rotorua District, we again bashed the mountain-bike trails of the Whakarewarewa Forest.

The camp at Lake Rotoiti was only a short walk up the road to see the Okere Falls and the trout pool only a few minutes' along a bushclad track. The Lakeside Holiday Park is well appointed with friendly hosts who will let you take one of their canoes for a paddle on the lake.

Fishing was on the agenda again that night, this time at the other end of Lake Rotoiti. After a couple of teeth-chattering hours waist-deep in cold water, and only one fish, we moved to the more sheltered landing at Lake Tarawera.

The next morning we visited the Hells Gate thermal area and in the afternoon we drove around many of the lakes.

After waking to a panorama of Lake Rotoma, we began our return trip toward Auckland.

The only real drawback with a campervan is the engine noise. After a couple of hours at 100 km/h, the drone irritates. Or maybe it was the thought of returning to the city to do some work that made my head hurt.

Before embarking on the trip I was cynical about campers, holding a view that drivers either spoke in broken English or were at least octogenarian. Nothing could be further from the truth. Campervans let you stop where you want for how long you want. They have piles of room for luggage and sporting equipment, and you save on petrol and accommodation. With the Kiwi dollar so low, consider holidaying in New Zealand. Get off the beaten track and discover our wonderful country.

* Campervan rentals vary between firms. They are based on number of berths, length of hire, one-way or return and the season. Major firms include: Adventure (0800 844 255), Maui (0800 651 080), R&R (0800 271 131), Britz (0800 831 900).