Chinese shrimp dumpling dim sum. Photo / Getty
Although predominantly poor, Sham Shui Po is nevertheless one of the most vibrant neighbourhoods in Hong Kong. It has a diverse mix of rural Chinese migrants, working-class families and seniors, with many living in the now-notorious cage homes (which cost NZ$700 a month to rent), subdivided flats and public housing
estates.
After a "cucumberano", a cucumber-flavoured coffee and soda water concoction (go on!) at Cafe Sausalito, $5, head to the meeting point for your Foodie Tour of Sham Shui Po which will keep your belly very happy until dinner. Follow in the footsteps of millions of Hong Kong locals (and Anthony Bourdain) as you savour unbelievably delicious, authentic treats at six blink-and-you'd-miss-it eateries. Your passionate foodie guide will help explain local life and the food you are experiencing and this is a fantastic way to introduce yourself to a neighbourhood that has escaped much of Hong Kong's frantic redevelopment - except that Sham Shui Po used to be on the waterfront. $150
Window shop at Apliu Street Electronics Market for every electronic gadget you can imagine. You can even build your own computer with the parts sold here.
Hidden within an unassuming residential building you'll find Vinyl Hero (known locally as Paul's Boutique). This is not just a record store but a lifelong passion project and musical treasure trove, lovingly curated for more than 50 years by the store's owner – Ah Paul. Like many Sham Shui Po vendors, Paul started selling his wares on the street but with a 50,000 strong record collection he eventually moved indoors. He now operates out of his own home, which is flooded with floor-to-ceiling records to suit all budgets and musical tastes. Nearby you can also find incredible handmade leather goods at Alri Star Leather Factory.
When you're finally ready for dinner head to Tim Ho Wan — now an international franchise but don't let that put you off. This is one of the most affordable Michelin-starred eateries in the world, Tim Ho Wan offers world class dim sum at a number of Hong Kong locations including Sham Shui Po. Sample authentic local delicacies including Kiwi favourites shrimp and pork siu mai, banana leaf-wrapped sticky rice, steamed shrimp dumplings and the much-raved-about barbeque pork buns (char siu) – all made to order. You will eat very well indeed for less than $45.
Total: $200
