With historic sights, vibrant food and flamenco flair, Seville is a city worth visiting again and again. Photo / Unsplash
Eager for a hit of Spanish culture? There are more than a few reasons Louise Slyth has visited Seville 10 times and would return in a heartbeat.
Seville is often called “the frying pan of Spain” because of its almost constant sunshine and soaring summer temperatures. The capital of Andalusia is Spain’s fourth largest city, so perhaps not as obvious a destination as Madrid or Barcelona, but it shouldn’t be overlooked.
I’ve been there 10 times, and I never tire of it. It’s impossible not to be enchanted as you wander through the Moorish-inspired architecture and cobbled streets lined by fragrant orange trees. Seville has a truly unique blend of old-world charm and vibrant modern culture.
The city’s old town is only 4sq km, making it easy to navigate on foot. Seville is the perfect location for a city break, whether you’re looking for romance, relaxation or recreation. Here’s what you should know before you go.
Seville has plenty to keep visitors occupied. It boasts three Unesco heritage sites as well as myriad museums, parks and stately homes.
The Catedral de Santa María de la Sede is the third-largest church in the world. Its iconic bell tower, known as the Giralda, can be seen from almost everywhere in the city. Buy your ticket online to avoid long queues. Alternatively, purchase a joint ticket from the Church of the Divine Saviour (Iglesia del Divino Salvador) that includes both locations, and stroll straight in.
Seville’s Royal Alcázar is a stunning palace still used by the Spanish royal family. Its lush gardens are patrolled by peacocks, and the palace itself is a breathtaking fusion of Islamic, Gothic, Mudejar and Renaissance architectural styles.
Set in the Parque de María Luisa, the Plaza de España was built for the 1929 Expo. It features a series of colourful tiled alcoves with scenes from each Spanish province. With its fountains and Italian-style bridges, it’s a spectacular site that has been used as a backdrop for movies like Star Wars Episode II.
For something more contemporary, visit the giant Metropol Parasol, which looms over the Plaza de la Encarnación. It’s referred to as “Las Setas” by Sevillanos because its wooden structure looks like a cluster of mushrooms. Inside, you’ll find several restaurants, a market and a museum. Get tickets to the wooden catwalk for one of the best views of the city.
Across the Isabel II bridge, the colourful neighbourhood of Triana is choc-full of ceramic shops and tapas bars. Try the local specialty, Cazón en adobo; dogfish marinated in paprika, oregano, salt, garlic, and vinegar and then fried. Don’t let the name put you off, it’s delicious!
Seville’s main shopping streets are Calles Sierpes and Tetuan. They run parallel to each other in the heart of the old town. Here you’ll find everything from European brands like Mango, to traditional stores selling mantones (Spanish shawls).
El Corte Inglés occupies an entire block of Plaza del Duque de la Victoria. The leading Spanish department store is a veritable cornucopia of fashion and food, with everything from concessions like Carolina Herrerra and Purification Garcia, to a gourmet experience and rooftop bar. There’s even a supermarket in the basement, where you can purchase local jamon and empanadas.
The Seville dining scene is vibrant, diverse and constantly evolving. From Michelin-starred restaurants to cheap tapas bars, and everything in between, you’ll never be short of options. To dine like a local, book dinner between 9pm and 10.30pm (when it’s generally cooler). Eating later also allows you to watch the sunset with a pre-dinner drink in one of the city’s many rooftop bars.
Not sure whether you want a bocadillo (sandwich) or a burger? Head to the Mercado Lonja del Barranco. With an array of food offerings from around the world, as well as indoor and outdoor seating, this food market is the ideal place to go when you want to hedge your bets.
Tucked into Hotel Villapanés, an 18th-century palace, you’ll find Los Rincones del Marqués. The restaurant delivers authentic Andalusian dishes cooked with flair and confidence. Choose between the restaurant or outdoor seating in the charming, enclosed courtyard. The tiramisu made to order at your table is not to be missed!
La Cochera del Abuelo roughly translates to “grandpa’s garage”. It’s an apt moniker for this restaurant set slightly off the beaten track in an old carriage house. The dining room is elegant yet cosy, and you’ll be met with impeccable service and food that you’ll be thinking about long after your visit.
For a refreshing change of scene, head to Caza Ozama in the leafy Porvenir district. The modernist early 20th-century villa boasts several different eating and drinking spaces, for all tastes and moods. Secure a reservation under a canopy of fairy lights in the stylish pergola to enjoy contemporary fare or tapas like papas aliñas (a traditional Andalusian potato dish).
No trip to Seville would be complete without some tapas. For cheap and cheerful options in the old town, try Marabunda, Lobo López or Abaceria del Postigo. Maravilla Social Club is a little further from the centre, but their patatas bravas are worth the walk.
Seville offers the perfect fusion of glamorous rooftop bars and old-fashioned Cervecerias, so you can always find the perfect venue for your mood.
You’ll hear Plaza Del Salvador before you see it. Here, fashionistas mingle with students outside bars like La Antigua Bodeguita to drink cheap beers in the shade of the coral-coloured Iglesia Del Divino Salvador.
For something a little different, try Bar Garlochí. You’ll either love or loathe this unique bar decorated with religious memorabilia, red velvet and candles. Try the signature cocktail Sangue de Cristo (blood of Christ) if you dare…
When the temperatures go up, so do the people in the know. Insiders head to Seville’s rooftop bars for soothing cool breezes and chilled vibes.
Ático Sevilla is a verdant urban oasis where you can sip signature cocktails as you enjoy fantastic views of the Guadalquivir River, the neighbourhood of Triana and the cathedral.
In a prime spot in the Plaza de la Encarnación, the rooftop terrace at Casa de Indias boasts unobstructed views of the Metropol Parasol. On the opposite side of the plaza, the stylish terrace at abba The Roof Giralda has great cityscape views and a varied cocktail menu.
Or try El Mirador de Querencia, where the cathedral views and the buzz are amazing, but the service can sometimes be slow.
Seville’s heart beats to the rhythm of flamenco. More an art form than a dance, it’s worth attending a flamenco show while you’re there. There are several tablaos (flamenco venues) offering theatre-style performances, or lively bars where you can catch a show for the price of a drink.
Tucked under Las Setas, Tablao Flamenco Las Setas can accommodate around 100 people in the theatre-style venue. It’s big enough to feel buzzy, but intimate enough that you can see and feel the rhythm and passion of the performers up close.
For something more informal, try a flamenco bar like La Carboneria in the old town or Lola de Los Reyes in the Triana neighbourhood.
However you spend your sojourn in Seville, you’re almost guaranteed to leave wanting more. Whether you fall in love with the culture, weather, gastronomy or friendly people, it’s a city that’s sure to get under your skin.