Immerse yourself in Rome’s past by visiting its most elegant and storied hotels. Photo / Palazzo Talìa
Want to experience the magic of Ancient Rome without the queues or pricey tickets? Michelle Tchea shares a little-known trick
“If these walls could talk” – we hear this phrase a lot when it comes to travel. History surrounds many intrepid travellers when they visit
With a great reputation, however, comes great crowds. Rome is popular for a reason. Most landmarks within walking distance of each other and everyone wants a snapshot of the Colosseum where gladiators once battled, I hear you when you say gelato tastes so much better when perched on the Spanish Steps, and no matter how many times you visit the Vatican – it’s true – you are left in awe.
After more than a dozen trips to the Italian capital, I’ve discovered how to enjoy the ancient city without fighting the 35 million tourists who visit each year. The secret? Popping into a hotel and having an espresso.
Rome has seen a boom in new restaurants and hotels in recent years, adding even more reason to visit the capital city of Italy. With this growth, hoteliers and passionate Italian families have redesigned, renovated and retouched many of the original frescos, mosaics and ceilings of properties that once stood where Gladiators roamed the city, proving that history can be found in places outside of a museum.
If you love looking beyond the guidebook and despise queuing, then grab an espresso and a Roman pastry (I recommend a maritozzo) and enjoy the art and history on show in these historic buildings.
Considered one of Ancient Rome’s most important meeting places back in the day, Piazza della Repubblica doesn’t necessarily attract as many tourists as the Colosseum does, but it is well worth the visit. Around the piazza, you will find the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri by Michelangelo Buonarroti and also the Fountain of the Naiads.
While some tourists stand in the middle of the street taking photos, the best view of all these marvels is in the hotel situated right on the piazza. The Anantara Palazzo Naiadi is an icon in itself: the building was designed in 1187 by Gaetano Koch, who imagined the twin neoclassical-style buildings, but what makes the hotel worthy of a pitstop is what lies underneath: the Diocletian Thermal Baths.
Dating back to AD298 to AD 306, the baths were a place for nobility and Romans would retreat to the public baths for some of their daily R and R. Once made of marble and ornate sculptures, only ruins remain now, however they can be seen through the hotel’s glass floors – offering a glimpse into the manpower of building what could be described as a modern-day gym for ancient Emperors spanning over 13ha under Rome.
If you want more art, stay in the hotel lobby for afternoon tea and admire the Murano chandeliers hanging near the reception and pop up to the hotel’s fourth floor which was built in 1705 by architect Carlo Fontana. Once a former granary it is now the hotel’s Clementino Wing and has an impressive line-up of art on the walls of the hallway.
You could easily walk past Palazzo Talia, which is sandwiched between modest Italian restaurants and pizzerias, and not even realise you are walking past an architectural gem oozing with history. The ancient building was once home to Angelo Colucci, a secretary to Pope Leo X in the 16th century and in the 17th century, a school for underprivileged students and soon after, highly respected cardinals of the Vatican.
Considered one of the oldest schools in Rome, the property was transformed into a gorgeous, contemporary hotel designed by famed director Luca Guadagnino a couple of years ago. Nods to the alumni (Christian De Sica and Dario Argento) are still found around the hallways of the hotel, and if you want to see the interior of the hotel, don’t bother splashing out close to €1500 a night, you can visit the hotel restaurant, Traemae or bar.
My tip is to grab a seat at the bar under the grotesque-frescoed ceilings of the Palazzo and have an espresso if you want, or even better: an espresso martini. Before you leave, ask the staff to take you on a mini tour of the garden (which was once the school’s parking lot).
Considered one of the most celebrated luxury hotels in Rome, the St. Regis Rome remains an iconic and emblematic property of the city at the ripe old age of 130 years young. Originally opened in 1894 by legendary Cesar Ritz, the hotel redefined the word “luxury” when it first opened in the 19th century and continues to do so, despite more than 100 years in operation.
It was one of the few hotels with electricity when it first opened and even had a fully-functional elevator powered by hydraulics (which is still in operation today and a marvellous ride if you are a guest of the hotel). The whole hotel became even more stunning after a $40 million renovation a couple of years ago, which breathed more life into the historical, yet opulent hotel, which has seen Emperors, Kings and celebrities like Grace Kelly live as permanent residents.
For the most Roman experience, book yourself into the popular Sunday Lunch and sit under the Murano glass chandeliers, touch the marble columns, sip on the hotel’s signature Bloody Mary and ogle at the hand-painted frescoes that surround you. If you have time, take a peek at the grand ballroom just outside of Lumen Restaurant and admire the hand-painted ceiling by Mario Spinetti which was one of the first in all of Europe.
READ MORE: The world’s best destinations for history lovers: Rome, Italy
Another one of Rome’s historical palazzos turned into a public meeting space, the Palazzo Ripetta sits on the cusp of a very busy shopping strip and one of the oldest streets in Rome, via Ripetta. Dating back to the 1st century BC, you may see glimmers of “old” Rome on this now designer fashion shopping street, but sadly, commercial stores have taken much of the wonder out of the neighbourhood.
Historically speaking, Pope Leo X was the man responsible for adapting it into a commercial street back in the 16th century, and despite its transformation, it does remain a great spot to people watch – and the best spot, in Palazzo Ripetta’s Restaurant and Bar, San Baylon.
Palazzo Ripetta originally opened in 1672 as a house for young orphans, and while only hotel guests can walk around the property looking at its century-old architecture, travellers can (and should) pop into the hotel restaurant for an espresso and something more delicious like homemade agnolotti del plin with roasted ragout. Helped by chef Christian Spalvieri, the restaurant is a destination for foodie,s but just make sure you save room for dessert.
The building was designed by Luigi Moretti, one of the most important Italian architects of the 20th century and in the hotel restaurant, you find ancient frescoes of the 17th-century palazzo and art by famous Italian artists like Sfera by Arnaldo and sculptures by Sinisca.
The Camino del Invierno is the path less travelled.