There are ways to enjoy a trip to the popular Greek spot. Photo / 123rf
Want to visit Santorini and actually enjoy yourself? Elise Morton has some advice.
Santorini doesn’t have to be hellish. You just have to be willing to step off the Instagram grid, writes Elise Morton.
For most of my life, Santorini represented everything my part-Greek family disdained about modern Greek tourism. Why, my relatives would ask, would anyone pay €25 ($50) for a Greek salad when you could get an authentic one for €7 elsewhere? Why fight through cruise ship crowds and Instagram influencers when the country has so many quieter, cheaper, equally stunning islands (not to mention the mainland)?
I had successfully avoided Santorini for 33 years – despite countless family trips and even 1.5 years living in Thessaloniki – until a friend’s wedding invitation made it unavoidable this year. My first reaction? Dismay. Of all the incredible places in Greece, why there?
But here’s the thing: I didn’t hate it. In fact, I figured out how to explore Santorini in a way that actually feels calm and enjoyable. And if a committed Santorini sceptic can find peaceful delight on the world’s most Instagrammed island, anyone can.
The secret? Stay where Greeks live.
The key to my surprisingly pleasant Santorini experience started with accommodation. Instead of booking in Fira or Oia – the whitewashed villages that dominate every postcard – I chose Karterados, a quiet village a short walk from the capital (Fira).
This decision changed everything. Karterados just felt normal. There was a decent-sized Masoutis supermarket where I’d grab groceries, coffee shops where I could get a takeaway freddo espresso for a couple of euros instead of six, and kids from the local school riding their bikes around the main square. It had all the whitewashed houses and labyrinthine streets we imagine when we think of Santorini, but with actual daily life happening around them.
From Karterados, I could walk into Fira when I wanted to, but I wasn’t trapped in the thick of the tourist chaos. And crucially, a simple guesthouse here cost a fraction of what I’d have paid for a caldera view room, a view I could enjoy for free by taking a stroll.
Other villages worth considering: Pyrgos, the island’s former capital with panoramic views and peaceful atmosphere; Megalochori, known for its bell towers and tavernas; or if you’re visiting in summer when the water’s warm, Kamari or Perissa for beaches and a relaxed vibe.
Yes, Fira and Oia are beautiful. They’re also hellish when packed with cruise passengers. The narrow streets feel suffocating, and watching people jostle for the same sunset photo spot in Oia borders on absurd.
But here’s the thing: the iconic view everyone comes for? It’s free. You don’t need to pay €15 for a cocktail at a cliffside bar. Instead, walk the 10km trail along the caldera rim from Fira to Oia (with a scramble up the iconic Skaros Rock if you’re feeling energetic). It takes three to four hours, requires decent shoes, and offers those dazzling views across the true-blue Aegean without nearly as many crowds. I’m already planning to return in early spring when the landscape blooms with wildflowers.
Or explore Santorini’s surprising depth beyond the postcard views, like its surprisingly unique wine culture. I’ll admit, before this trip, Greek wine meant retsina to me, a pine resin-infused white that not everyone loves. But Santorini is becoming a serious wine destination, with 3500 years of winemaking history and volcanic soils that produce wines unlike anywhere else.
To learn more, I booked an afternoon wine tour to three wineries; an unexpected highlight that revealed a side of the island I knew nothing about. Starting at the beachfront Gaia Winery, we learned about the kouloura (circular vine “baskets” that protect grapes from intense sun and wind) and tasted Assyrtiko (Santorini’s signature grape) while waves lapped at our feet. Then, a stop at Anhydrous (a winery on the site of a former open-air cinema) to sample a citrusy white Aidani and learn about Greece’s wine-making regions, before ending the day at Santo Wines with a sunset over the caldera and a glass of Vin Santo, the island’s traditional sweet wine made from sun-dried grapes.
Staying in smaller towns and skipping expensive cocktails doesn’t just make for a more authentic experience, but a cheaper one in a destination known for astronomical prices. Here are some other ways to enjoy Santorini’s authentic side and save some money.
Pre-book transport. Yes, I paid around €20 for a 10-minute drive to certain places, but that beats the €200 some travellers were quoted for a 15-minute journey from the ferry port, as drivers prey on unsuspecting tourists with luggage.
Eat street food. Ask locals to point you to the nearest souvlaki joint. A pita gyros with salad, chips, and tzatziki should be about €5. Erotokritos bakery in Karterados was my go-to for spanakopita (spinach and feta pie) at €2-4. For sit-down meals, I loved Restaurant To Fagopoti and Meze house Maniemos.
Use public buses. They’re reliable and affordable, even if they require patience.
Visit in shoulder season. I went in late spring after earthquake fears earlier in the year had sent prices tumbling. Fewer crowds, lower costs, still beautiful weather.
Would I rush back to Santorini tomorrow? Probably not. But would I return in early spring to hike among wildflowers and explore more of those volcanic vineyards? Absolutely. The key is approaching it on your own terms: stay in a real village, avoid the peak season crush, eat where Greeks eat, and remember that the best experiences – whether views or wine tastings or beach walks – happen when you step away from the crowds.
The writer travelled at their own expense.