NZ Herald
  • Home
  • Latest news
  • Herald NOW
  • Video
  • New Zealand
  • Sport
  • World
  • Business
  • Entertainment
  • Podcasts
  • Quizzes
  • Opinion
  • Lifestyle
  • Travel
  • Viva
  • Weather

Subscriptions

  • Herald Premium
  • Viva Premium
  • The Listener
  • BusinessDesk

Sections

  • Latest news
  • New Zealand
    • All New Zealand
    • Crime
    • Politics
    • Education
    • Open Justice
    • Scam Update
  • Herald NOW
  • On The Up
  • World
    • All World
    • Australia
    • Asia
    • UK
    • United States
    • Middle East
    • Europe
    • Pacific
  • Business
    • All Business
    • MarketsSharesCurrencyCommoditiesStock TakesCrypto
    • Markets with Madison
    • Media Insider
    • Business analysis
    • Personal financeKiwiSaverInterest ratesTaxInvestment
    • EconomyInflationGDPOfficial cash rateEmployment
    • Small business
    • Business reportsMood of the BoardroomProject AucklandSustainable business and financeCapital markets reportAgribusiness reportInfrastructure reportDynamic business
    • Deloitte Top 200 Awards
    • CompaniesAged CareAgribusinessAirlinesBanking and financeConstructionEnergyFreight and logisticsHealthcareManufacturingMedia and MarketingRetailTelecommunicationsTourism
  • Opinion
    • All Opinion
    • Analysis
    • Editorials
    • Business analysis
    • Premium opinion
    • Letters to the editor
  • Politics
  • Sport
    • All Sport
    • OlympicsParalympics
    • RugbySuper RugbyNPCAll BlacksBlack FernsRugby sevensSchool rugby
    • CricketBlack CapsWhite Ferns
    • Racing
    • NetballSilver Ferns
    • LeagueWarriorsNRL
    • FootballWellington PhoenixAuckland FCAll WhitesFootball FernsEnglish Premier League
    • GolfNZ Open
    • MotorsportFormula 1
    • Boxing
    • UFC
    • BasketballNBABreakersTall BlacksTall Ferns
    • Tennis
    • Cycling
    • Athletics
    • SailingAmerica's CupSailGP
    • Rowing
  • Lifestyle
    • All Lifestyle
    • Viva - Food, fashion & beauty
    • Society Insider
    • Royals
    • Sex & relationships
    • Food & drinkRecipesRecipe collectionsRestaurant reviewsRestaurant bookings
    • Health & wellbeing
    • Fashion & beauty
    • Pets & animals
    • The Selection - Shop the trendsShop fashionShop beautyShop entertainmentShop giftsShop home & living
    • Milford's Investing Place
  • Entertainment
    • All Entertainment
    • TV
    • MoviesMovie reviews
    • MusicMusic reviews
    • BooksBook reviews
    • Culture
    • ReviewsBook reviewsMovie reviewsMusic reviewsRestaurant reviews
  • Travel
    • All Travel
    • News
    • New ZealandNorthlandAucklandWellingtonCanterburyOtago / QueenstownNelson-TasmanBest NZ beaches
    • International travelAustraliaPacific IslandsEuropeUKUSAAfricaAsia
    • Rail holidays
    • Cruise holidays
    • Ski holidays
    • Luxury travel
    • Adventure travel
  • Kāhu Māori news
  • Environment
    • All Environment
    • Our Green Future
  • Talanoa Pacific news
  • Property
    • All Property
    • Property Insider
    • Interest rates tracker
    • Residential property listings
    • Commercial property listings
  • Health
  • Technology
    • All Technology
    • AI
    • Social media
  • Rural
    • All Rural
    • Dairy farming
    • Sheep & beef farming
    • Horticulture
    • Animal health
    • Rural business
    • Rural life
    • Rural technology
    • Opinion
    • Audio & podcasts
  • Weather forecasts
    • All Weather forecasts
    • Kaitaia
    • Whangārei
    • Dargaville
    • Auckland
    • Thames
    • Tauranga
    • Hamilton
    • Whakatāne
    • Rotorua
    • Tokoroa
    • Te Kuiti
    • Taumaranui
    • Taupō
    • Gisborne
    • New Plymouth
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Dannevirke
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Levin
    • Paraparaumu
    • Masterton
    • Wellington
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Blenheim
    • Westport
    • Reefton
    • Kaikōura
    • Greymouth
    • Hokitika
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
    • Wānaka
    • Oamaru
    • Queenstown
    • Dunedin
    • Gore
    • Invercargill
  • Meet the journalists
  • Promotions & competitions
  • OneRoof property listings
  • Driven car news

Puzzles & Quizzes

  • Puzzles
    • All Puzzles
    • Sudoku
    • Code Cracker
    • Crosswords
    • Cryptic crossword
    • Wordsearch
  • Quizzes
    • All Quizzes
    • Morning quiz
    • Afternoon quiz
    • Sports quiz

Regions

  • Northland
    • All Northland
    • Far North
    • Kaitaia
    • Kerikeri
    • Kaikohe
    • Bay of Islands
    • Whangarei
    • Dargaville
    • Kaipara
    • Mangawhai
  • Auckland
  • Waikato
    • All Waikato
    • Hamilton
    • Coromandel & Hauraki
    • Matamata & Piako
    • Cambridge
    • Te Awamutu
    • Tokoroa & South Waikato
    • Taupō & Tūrangi
  • Bay of Plenty
    • All Bay of Plenty
    • Katikati
    • Tauranga
    • Mount Maunganui
    • Pāpāmoa
    • Te Puke
    • Whakatāne
  • Rotorua
  • Hawke's Bay
    • All Hawke's Bay
    • Napier
    • Hastings
    • Havelock North
    • Central Hawke's Bay
    • Wairoa
  • Taranaki
    • All Taranaki
    • Stratford
    • New Plymouth
    • Hāwera
  • Manawatū - Whanganui
    • All Manawatū - Whanganui
    • Whanganui
    • Palmerston North
    • Manawatū
    • Tararua
    • Horowhenua
  • Wellington
    • All Wellington
    • Kapiti
    • Wairarapa
    • Upper Hutt
    • Lower Hutt
  • Nelson & Tasman
    • All Nelson & Tasman
    • Motueka
    • Nelson
    • Tasman
  • Marlborough
  • West Coast
  • Canterbury
    • All Canterbury
    • Kaikōura
    • Christchurch
    • Ashburton
    • Timaru
  • Otago
    • All Otago
    • Oamaru
    • Dunedin
    • Balclutha
    • Alexandra
    • Queenstown
    • Wanaka
  • Southland
    • All Southland
    • Invercargill
    • Gore
    • Stewart Island
  • Gisborne

Media

  • Video
    • All Video
    • NZ news video
    • Herald NOW
    • Business news video
    • Politics news video
    • Sport video
    • World news video
    • Lifestyle video
    • Entertainment video
    • Travel video
    • Markets with Madison
    • Kea Kids news
  • Podcasts
    • All Podcasts
    • The Front Page
    • On the Tiles
    • Ask me Anything
    • The Little Things
  • Cartoons
  • Photo galleries
  • Today's Paper - E-editions
  • Photo sales
  • Classifieds

NZME Network

  • Advertise with NZME
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • BusinessDesk
  • Newstalk ZB
  • Sunlive
  • ZM
  • The Hits
  • Coast
  • Radio Hauraki
  • The Alternative Commentary Collective
  • Gold
  • Flava
  • iHeart Radio
  • Hokonui
  • Radio Wanaka
  • iHeartCountry New Zealand
  • Restaurant Hub
  • NZME Events

SubscribeSign In
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Home / Travel

Russia: Vodka - the feeling of being in Russia

By Kevin Pilley
NZ Herald·
29 Jan, 2013 12:30 AM5 mins to read

Subscribe to listen

Access to Herald Premium articles require a Premium subscription. Subscribe now to listen.
Already a subscriber?  Sign in here

Listening to articles is free for open-access content—explore other articles or learn more about text-to-speech.
‌
Save

    Share this article

Viktor Korheev is the vodka sommelier at Russia's Grand Hotel Europe. Photo / Supplied

Viktor Korheev is the vodka sommelier at Russia's Grand Hotel Europe. Photo / Supplied

Kevin Pilley is punished for arriving late to a private vodka tasting

"Gulp!" said Viktor, without even a "nazdarovya" or a "vashezdarovye" or even a cursory "cheers".

I was late for my private lesson from Russia's only full-time professional vodka sommelier and I had to take my medicine. Impunctual guests in Russia are subject to a penalty shot of vodka. A stiff one.

I gulped back my punishment. My eyes watered. Viktor's shone.

"Good. Can you feel the warmth now in the cheeks and in the throat? That is a warm feeling. That is the feeling of being in Russia. It is the feeling of being Russian."

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

My tutorial took place in the Caviar Bar of St Petersburg's famous 302-room Grand Hotel Europe. Located on the corner of Nevsky Prospekt and Mikhailovskaya Ulitsa, it was Russia's first "first class" hotel.

The red-walled Caviar Bar was formerly the 19th-century Marble Room, and green marble prevails in the form of the floor and columns. The waiters wear imperial costumes and there are crystal Faberge eggs and a 300-year-old mirror. Plus 39 different vodkas.

"Vodka is in our blood. It has always been in our blood. It is always in our blood," said 26-year-old Viktor Korheev, who has been the hotel's "little water" sommelier for three years. His mission was to teach me to share his passion.

"Kaufmann's, from Kaluga near Moscow, is a fine, pure vodka," he said. "My personal favourite." Viktor poured out a small glass of clear liquid and approvingly watched me knock it back neat. In the prescribed Russian way.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"Can you taste the glacial water of Lake Ladoga?" he asked. I made a suitable face.

Austria has its Puriste, Poland its Belvedere, Sweden its Absolut and, curiously, Scotland the world's most expensive vodka, Diva, made by Blackwood's Distillery, filtered through crushed diamonds and other gems. But Russia believes it has the best vodka and the Grand Hotel has the best choice of the best.

"Vodka should be drunk chilled at 50 degrees," said my personal vodka trainer as I threw back another shot, or "shabalike", conscious that I didn't shudder as it went down.

"You notice the purity?" Viktor asked. "This is eight times distilled and quartz crystal filtered. Not all Russian vodka is firewater. The best are made to the most rigorous standards. It is very smooth and velvety and doesn't burn.

Discover more

Travel

Russia: Art fit for the Tsars

13 Aug 05:30 PM
Travel

Russia: Hijacked on the Prospekt

26 Sep 05:30 PM
Lifestyle

Viva's hot list for 2013

29 Jan 09:30 PM
Travel

Russia: Bath takes beating

23 Mar 10:00 PM

"Imperia," he added, "is a great vodka. It is crafted according to the formulaic elements discovered in a dream by the great scientist Dmitri Mendeleev."

I said that I'd better have another to toast the old boy.

"To Comrade Dmitri!" I said, slugging it back in one go.

"If you eat well you will not get drunk. Or a hangover," Viktor assured me. "The water from the Neva - the St Petersburg river - is best for tea. If you understand vodka you understand Russia. It's a crime to come here and not drink our national drink. I don't like gin."

He stared me into an assenting nod.

"You must drink vodka before caviar. An onion also brings out the taste. You must drink vodka. It is a good-time drink. For significant and insignificant occasions. But temperately."

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Earlier I had taken a guided tour of the city's new Vodka Museum with its director, Alexey Khrapov. The museum (on Konnogvardeiski Boulevard) used to be the stable of the Horseguards Regiment.

"Prince Vladimir of Kiev chose Christianity over Islam so he could drink. So we have been drinking from about 987."

Up until the 16th century, fermented drinks like mead and beer were the most popular, Alexey told me. "Genoese traders may have brought in 'aqua vitae' in the Middle Ages. The monks made bread wine - 'khlebnogvina'. Original rural spirits would have been from tapped birch trees."

Those early vodkas would have been just 14 per cent, he said.

"This is a very unusual photograph," he continued, as we neared a photo of Boris Yeltsin holding a pen. "Usually he had a vodka in his hand!"

A gun in a cabinet belonged to a Cossack. "They loved a thing called 'Baltic tea' which was basically vodka with a lot of cocaine in it. You didn't spend too much time around them."

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Today, Russia's vodka industry is worth more than $12 billion a year. But for Viktor the sommelier, it's bigger than money - this is the drink of the nation's spirit.

With one sniff and barely a glance he can identify the arterial waters of the Samara in Kaliningrad. He can detect potato peelings and the sugar beet molasses.

"Every glass I drink makes me think about my country's history," he said. "It's a very relaxing drink. It's an anti-depressant.

"Each glass is a bit of Russia," said Viktor in summary.

I raised my final fruit infusion.

"To our friendship," I toasted.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

"Za na-shoo droo-zhboo," Viktor toasted back rather phonetically.

"To your health," I continued.

"Za tva-jo zda-ro-vye," Viktor translated. "Za vashee zda-r-vye.

"To our meeting," he interpreted.

I got up and left before I began sounding like I was talking in Cyrillic. Or saying "wodka" when I really meant "vodka".

* You can find out about Grand Hotel Europe and its services here.

Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.
Save

    Share this article

Latest from Travel

Travel

Kiwi chef reveals most surprising foodie region in Aotearoa

21 Jun 06:00 PM
Travel

Auckland Airport flights delayed or cancelled due to fog

20 Jun 09:41 PM
Travel

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM

One pass, ten snowy adventures

sponsored
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.

Latest from Travel

Kiwi chef reveals most surprising foodie region in Aotearoa

Kiwi chef reveals most surprising foodie region in Aotearoa

21 Jun 06:00 PM

The chef chats to Herald Travel about unforgettable foodie experiences in Aotearoa.

Auckland Airport flights delayed or cancelled due to fog

Auckland Airport flights delayed or cancelled due to fog

20 Jun 09:41 PM
Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

Stylish, central and affordable? This Waikiki hotel may have it all

19 Jun 10:00 PM
Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

Paris local reveals the underrated neighbourhood you won’t see on Instagram

19 Jun 06:00 AM
Your Fiordland experience, levelled up
sponsored

Your Fiordland experience, levelled up

NZ Herald
  • About NZ Herald
  • Meet the journalists
  • Newsletters
  • Classifieds
  • Help & support
  • Contact us
  • House rules
  • Privacy Policy
  • Terms of use
  • Competition terms & conditions
  • Our use of AI
Subscriber Services
  • NZ Herald e-editions
  • Daily puzzles & quizzes
  • Manage your digital subscription
  • Manage your print subscription
  • Subscribe to the NZ Herald newspaper
  • Subscribe to Herald Premium
  • Gift a subscription
  • Subscriber FAQs
  • Subscription terms & conditions
  • Promotions and subscriber benefits
NZME Network
  • The New Zealand Herald
  • The Northland Age
  • The Northern Advocate
  • Waikato Herald
  • Bay of Plenty Times
  • Rotorua Daily Post
  • Hawke's Bay Today
  • Whanganui Chronicle
  • Viva
  • NZ Listener
  • Newstalk ZB
  • BusinessDesk
  • OneRoof
  • Driven Car Guide
  • iHeart Radio
  • Restaurant Hub
NZME
  • About NZME
  • NZME careers
  • Advertise with NZME
  • Digital self-service advertising
  • Book your classified ad
  • Photo sales
  • NZME Events
  • © Copyright 2025 NZME Publishing Limited
TOP