Prestonfield House and The Witchery are two sides of the same coin, tranquil luxury in a rural setting and gothic decadence in the heart of the city. Photo / Supplied
Nikki Birrell reviews two Edinburgh properties side by side: country lodgings by Arthur’s Seat and a gothic wonder in the heart of the Scottish city.
James Thomson is Scotland’s best-known restaurateur and hotelier and was awarded an OBE for services to hospitality and Scottish tourism. His two sister properties, The Witchery and Prestonfield House, offer an unparalleled taste of Edinburgh’s historic luxury, from quite different perspectives: one in the heart of the medieval old town, the other in a tranquil rural setting a short car ride away.
Location: The Witchery (TW): A few steps away from Edinburgh Castle on the Royal Mile, right at the top of the medieval old town.
Prestonfield House (PH): A country estate at the foot of Arthur’s Seat, a short car ride from the city centre, surrounded by acres of gardens and parkland.
Style: TW: Is Hogwarts a style? There’s certainly an enchanting quality to the overtly gothic and theatrical stylings of the suites and dining rooms, split across historical buildings that date back to the late 1500s. Even the courtyard entrance, a traditional “close”, feels like some sort of magical realm with its stone pavers and lush greenery. Utterly bewitching.
PH: Built in 1687 for the Provost of Edinburgh as his private residence, Prestonfield was turned into a hotel in 2003 and lovingly restored. It’s a visual feast, with opulent interiors that nod to its 17th-century origins. Think rich jewel tones, decadent drapes, ornate wood panelling and antique furnishings. But the charm is far from stuffy; there’s a sense of playful eccentricity in the decor that makes you feel like a guest in a particularly fabulous country manor.
Perfect for: TW: Romantics, history buffs and anyone with a penchant for the dramatic and theatrical. Double glazing means a peaceful night’s sleep, but during the day you can still make out the stirring sound of bagpipes on the streets below.
PH: A tranquil escape for those who want a luxurious countryside retreat without leaving the city limits.
First impressions: TW: How exclusive our stay felt when we used the key to open the gate to Sempill Close where our room was (across the street from the main reception), ushering away “tourists” who’d stopped in front to take pictures of how gorgeous the entranceway is. We were asked, “Oh my God, do you live here?” I really wanted to say yes.
PH: The approach to Prestonfield, via its grand driveway flanked by manicured gardens and grazing Highland cattle, is an experience in itself. The staff here really stood out for us – warm and friendly, professional but in no way stuffy. We required a quiet space to conduct an online meeting before our room was ready and were led to a gorgeous wee nook looking over the grounds that had us both audibly sighing with contentment.
The room: TW: Filled with antiques and richly coloured textiles, The Library suite overlooks the Royal Mile and is in the former private home of the Sempill family. Unique features include Gothic oak bookcases, walls upholstered in Paisley fabrics, rich, red, antique velvet drapes, oak and tile floors and an opulently draped bed. A TV appears at the foot of the bed at the press of a button – super-discreet.
PH: Our suite, the Benjamin Franklin, was named after the famed founding father of the United States because he stayed at Prestonfield in the 18th century. The silver leaf sleigh king bed had little step stools on either side, such is the bed’s height. We were particularly taken with the antique chaise longue overlooking the tranquil parkland. As well as an en-suite, there’s also a sitting room (both rooms have a media cabinet) and a guest bathroom. If you book directly, you can expect a complimentary bottle of Champagne in your room on arrival and lots of lovely little treats to enjoy. Full Sky TV package, Netflix and Roberts Bluetooth radio are also included.
Bathroom: TW: The Library room has a dramatic book-filled bathroom entered via its secret door from the gothic bedroom, with a roll-top bath, gilded mirrors and luxurious toiletries. The atmospheric lighting adds to the sense of indulgence.
PH: Loved the Penhaligon toiletries in the bathrooms and you’ll definitely want to luxuriate on the chaise longue in the provided bathrobes and slippers after taking a decadent soak.
Facilities: TW: The Witchery is more about intimacy than sprawling facilities. While there’s no gym or spa, the on-site restaurant is an attraction in itself, offering a decadent menu in a setting that’s pure theatre.
PH: There are several public rooms at Prestonfield, including the theatrical Baroque Tapestry Room with its sofas, board games, books and log fire; the Leather Room with its lavish panels of 17th-century leather; the Yellow Room with golden velvet walls; and the Whisky Room, which has antler furniture to settle into as you drink a rare single malt by the fire. But wait, there’s much more ... two terraces with pots of olive trees and topiary and stone balustrades, and a Gothic Tea House set in the heart of the rose gardens.
Food and drink: TW: Dining at The Witchery is an unforgettable experience. The opulent dining room, with its candlelit tables and gothic decor, sets the stage for a menu that champions Scottish produce, complemented by an award-winning wine list. The romantic setting has made it a popular choice for proposals.
PH: At Prestonfield’s Rhubarb restaurant, so named because it was the first estate in Scotland to grow rhubarb, you could be feasting on the likes of goose breast, sea trout, brown crab or Angus beef, all accompanied by flavour-packed produce, some of which is grown on the grounds, along with decadent sauces. Don’t skip dessert.
In the neighbourhood: TW: Situated on Edinburgh’s famed Royal Mile, The Witchery is perfect for exploring the city’s historic old town, from the castle to the charming cobbled streets and boutique shops.
PH: While Prestonfield feels wonderfully secluded, it’s just a short distance from Arthur’s Seat for those who fancy a hike. The city centre is a quick car ride away, offering all the attractions of Edinburgh without the hustle.
Sustainability: Both The Witchery and Prestonfield House have implemented measures to reduce energy consumption, including the use of LED lighting throughout the properties. They also support local suppliers for their menus and have a recycling programme in place. Prestonfield takes pride in managing its extensive grounds sustainably, including planting native flora and maintaining wildlife-friendly habitats.
Accessibility: TW: Due to its historic nature, accessibility is limited. There are steps and narrow hallways, which may be challenging for those with mobility issues.
PH: Prestonfield is more accommodating, with ground-floor rooms and facilities designed to cater to guests with mobility challenges. However, some of the period features may still pose minor accessibility issues.
Price: TW: Room rates start from £575 (about $1254) a room a night and include breakfast.
PH: Room rates start from £375 ($818) a room a night and include breakfast.
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