Who owns it? Scenic Hotel Group.
The main entrance to Te Waonui Forest Retreat. Photo / Supplied
What's so good about this place? It's Qualmark five star, with an international staff who know their hospitality - think turn-down service (they even arranged the kids' teddy bears), a luxury beauty spa, a valet who insists on helping pack your car so you don't have to get rained on. Oh, and, holy cow, read on for the food.
And the bad? To be picky, the heat pump was right above my bed. Cue dreams about being trapped in a hair dryer.
What's in the neighbourhood? Franz Josef Glacier, Aoraki, the West Coast Wildlife Centre (where you can see the rowi, the rarest kiwi), Glacier Hot Pools and the kotuku (white heron) colony at Whataroa.
The bed? With an inch-thick wool underlay, it pretty much cuddles you to sleep. There's even a pillow menu.
A room with a view? Rivendell rainforest to the north (filling the view out the sliding glass door); Misty Mountains to the south (out the front door).
The bathroom? Compact and pristine, with a shower.
Te Waonui's beds are supremely comfortable. Photo / Supplied
Toiletries? Earths Botanics. (Luxury doesn't always come with apostrophes.)
Noise? Apparently there's high-tech soundproofing in the rooms, so there was nothing to drown out our kids but the roll and crack of thunder outside. And when it rains (which it usually does in Franz Josef) you hear just the brush of thousands of droplets on fern fronds.
Food and drink? How does this grab you? Fiordland lobster nestled on fennel, kaffir lime leaf, popcorn shoot and snow pea salad, citrus vinaigrette, chorizo and anchovy mayonnaise, cod caviar. That's just the starter for the five-course degustation menu. The buffet breakfast is generous in quality and quantity.
Perfect for? A luxury romantic getaway, a spa retreat or a base to explore Mt Cook and the glaciers.
Would I return? Love to - without the kids.
CHECKLIST
Te Waonui Forest Retreat is on Wallace St, Franz Josef. Phone: (03) 752 0555.
