Fremantle Prison is WA's only Unesco World Heritage-listed building. Photo / THIS IS FREMANTLE
Western Australia’s capital has often been touted as the country’s “quirky cousin”, but as Mitchell Hageman discovers, the rapidly growing city of Perth (Boorloo) is a dining, entertainment and cultural powerhouse.
Standing on the docks of Perth’s architecturally marvellous Elizabeth Quay, it’s hard to fathom that just 15 years ago, I would’ve been trudging through a mix of mangroves and dry grass.
In fact, 15 years of development have turned the once-sleepy coastal metropolis and former penal colony into, I think, the most exciting and visitable Australian capital out there right now. Once empty heritage buildings are full to the brim with world-class dining, the white sand beaches minutes away still have that ‘untouched feel’, and there’s no shortage of places to get a live entertainment fix or a moving cultural experience.
Heck, even getting locked up is one of the best experiences you’ll have – but I’ll get to that later.
Much of Perth sits on the banks of the Swan River (Derbal Yerrigan), which, from the great view from the Hilton DoubleTree Perth Waterfront‘s infinity pool, also looks like a massive brownstone-coloured snake. The cobbled stones and spacious footpaths surrounding it are clean and make for an extremely walkable city, but make sure you slip, slop, slap and hydrate for mid-30C summer temperatures.
Kings Park (Kaarta Koomba), perched on the rocky, grass-lined cliffs overlooking the city, was for years a maternity centre and birthing place for women of the Whadjuk people. It’s also teeming with wildlife and plants that you could live off, as our local guide Steven, of In Culture Tours, tells us. A walk with Steven feels like chatting with a long-lost friend, and his honest, personal stories and genuine love for his culture are infectious. He also taught me how to throw a “Kylie”, most commonly known as a boomerang, which was a very enjoyable and unique experience one doesn’t typically get during a tour.
Public transport in the immediate city area is free on CAT buses and trains, and amazingly, legendary rockers AC/DC happened to be playing at the same time I was around, so I also couldn’t give up the opportunity to spend a night in the 70,000 capacity Optus Stadium. While my eardrums were shot afterwards due to the band’s explosive performance (featuring a barrage of fire, pyrotechnics and Angus Young duckwalking), it was a seamless experience that cemented Perth as a go-to gig destination.
Two days into the trip, I was locked in solitary confinement with no light and no bed. I hadn’t done anything wrong, but my Fremantle Prison guide had asked me if I wanted to see what it was like.
The Unesco World Heritage Site, which unbelievably still functioned as a prison until 1991, is one of the best historical attractions I’ve ever visited, even better than the infamous Alcatraz in San Francisco. There are options for convict history tours, prison history tours and even ones of the extensive underground tunnel system. Our private tour had us relive stories of daring escapes and brutal conditions (there was no plumbing in cells), as well as those of hope and change. Seeing the gallows chamber was a haunting and eye-opening experience, as the trapdoor and mechanism still remain from the days when criminals were executed.
Just down the road from the prison grounds was our actual lodging for the night, the luxurious Garde Hotel. Recently opened, the chic architecture keeps with the sandstone style of Fremantle’s historic district, mixed with eclectic modern art. Rooms come complete with a free minibar and access to a continental breakfast and wine hour at the restaurant downstairs, ideal for a couple’s getaway or business outing.
If you’re looking for a great local haunt, lock yourself in Vin Populi just metres down the road for the best handmade pasta. There’s no paper menu here, just a chalkboard with today’s offerings that are packed with fresh seafood and local produce.
On your way to Fremantle, you’d be amiss not to roll along the beach-lined Marine Parade to check out the suburb of Cottesloe, with its iconic tea rooms and crystal-clear waters.
And with the amount of food I consumed at the recently opened Gibney in Cottesloe, I just about needed to be rolled out myself. European-inspired fare with a modern-Australian twist, the restaurant served up ridiculously fresh local scallops and lamb cooked to perfection on a special Argentinian woodfire grill. The tableside-made Caesar salad and drinks cart were also a classy touch, adding to the upscale fitout.
Those wanting to stay closer to the city can also roll through art-lined streets, coffee shops and buildings with the infectiously enthusiastic Adie of Oh Hey! WA walking tours. She’ll take you through some of the best sculpture installations, painted laneways and foodie hotspots in the city, complete with a stop at Telegram Coffee, which was the best brew I’ve ever had on my travels to Australia.
Just a 30-minute ferry ride from Fremantle’s Ferry Terminal is Rottnest Island (Wadjemup), a place one could easily mistake for a tropical oasis. Once you get there, make sure to grab an e-bike and snorkel so you can roll along the coast (you can’t bring your car) and visit Little Salmon Bay, where you might catch a glimpse of some beautiful tropical fish.
The rolling hills of grassland and white sand dunes are also great for a hike, something Kate from The Hike Collective can easily arrange. She’ll make you feel like the only person on the island as you walk past picturesque vistas and serene settings – the perfect way to get in touch with nature and destress without the hustle and bustle.
You can head back to the mainland before dark, but why not spend the night? That’s when you’ll have the best chance to see families of quokka (sometimes described as the world’s happiest animal) and get that iconic selfie made popular by visiting celebrities.
The Lodge Wadjemup is a great place to rest your head after a day full of adventure, with the brand-new poolside rooms and on-site restaurant suitable for both families and couples wanting to make the most of their summer days.
From cultural experiences and coastal escapades to fine dining with fabulous views or top-tier shows, it’s clear this ‘quirky cousin’ has matured into a powerhouse city.
For Kiwis seeking a refreshing change from familiar favourites like Sydney and Melbourne, a holiday in Perth had me grinning like a quokka, and I’m sure you will too.
PERTH, WESTERN AUSTRALIA
GETTING THERE
Fly from Auckland to Perth direct with Qantas.
PLAY
STAY
DINE
The journalist travelled courtesy of Tourism WA and Qantas.