Riverside rendezvous

By MEGAN SINGLETON

With family spread from Hawkes Bay to Auckland, staying at White Water Lodge on the edge of the Tongariro River in Turangi was just the ticket for a weekend of good food, fine wine and more laughing than is sensible to indulge in.

We assembled in Taupo; three couples from rural Hawkes Bay who had parked eight kids out with various grandparents and neighbours, and two singles from Auckland with a boot-load of wine.

The Terraces Hotel and Resort at de Bretts, built in 1889 and where locals and visitors have flocked for years for a hot swim amid the native bush, has been completely refurbished and is now a beautiful blend of country lodge and stylish, uncluttered design.

Sought after for weddings and private functions, it was the perfect rendezvous for a quick drink before travelling in convoy around the lake.

We stopped for dinner at the Four Fish in Turangi town centre, as recommended by the staff at the Terraces, and while the food was excellent, we were given the farthest table from the roaring fire in the empty restaurant. Deciding that dessert would be best taken at our lodge in front of our own fire, we swung the convoy back on to the road and five minutes later pulled up at White Water Lodge.

Owned by Paul and Vicki Van Dorp of NZ Paradise Holidays, the country-style wooden home is managed by local Deidre Brockett, who made sure we arrived to a first impression of fresh coffee, homemade afghans, a bottle of wine and cheese.

The spa pool was hot and the log-burner ensured our visit to the central North Island was a warm one.

Hurriedly choosing our rooms (it sleeps up to 12 including a bunkroom) we leapt into our togs and managed to squeeze all eight in the spa. With a tangle of legs bobbing under a canopy of stars we all agreed that this was definitely the life.

Being self-catering, we had chosen our meal duties via several excited emails during the previous week so I was up before all the grateful parents - who, sans kids, were taking advantage of the lie-in - and got pancakes and bacon under way.

The forecast was meant to be ominous, but instead the sun came out and though chilly we decided to take a tour of the surrounds. The drive to Kuratau affords stunning views of Lake Taupo, but alas, nowhere to stop for a coffee.

The birthday girl wanted to continue to the Grand Chateau for afternoon tea but sadly for her, no preferential treatment was given and she had to settle for a flat white at the Mustard Seed Cafe in Turangi and a browse of stalls laden with homemade jam, biscuits and hand-knitted socks.

The recent flooding has left a huge mark on the banks of the Tongariro. Apparently trout were even flapping about under people's houses.

The Van Dorps were lucky. The waters came within inches of their front door and only carried the spa pool off down the river. A stop-bank is now nearly completed which, while protecting their home, sadly impedes the view of the river from the ground floor.

The upside is that locals can't remember when fishing has been as good. New pools have been created by the floods but the closest we got to standing chest-deep in the freezing current was talking to the keen wader-clad fishermen from the bank in front of the house as they pulled in their quotas and threw many more back.

That night was the birthday dinner. A banquet of roast pork straight from the farm with all the trimmings washed down with red wine and followed by homemade lemon meringue pie. And as if we weren't lethargic enough after the degustation, a nightcap in the spa listening to the mighty Tongariro topped off a great weekend.

* Megan Singleton was the guest of White Water Lodge.

Case notes


Contact

White Water Lodge, 50 Herekiekie St, Turangi; freephone 0800 104 304; on the web: NZ Paradise

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Cost

$295 (plus GST) per couple. Each additional person $45 (plus GST); to 12 people. Facilities for single-party bookings include one super-king/twin bedroom, queen, twin, single and a bunkroom sleeping five. Cot available. Wood fire, Sky TV, DVD, video, spa pool, rotisserie barbecue, full kitchen with basic supplies, laundry, helipad.

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Where to Eat

The Four Fish in Turangi was short on ambience and design, but great on food. The Mustard Seed Cafe is lovely for brunch/lunch.

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What to Do

Stop at Tourist Information in Turangi town centre and pick up brochures on all sorts of activities including:

Trout fishing - buy a licence for $12.50 a day or $27 a week and hire gear from Sporting Life or Barry Greig's Sporting World in the Mall.

Ruapehu - Whakapapa is just 40 minutes away for skiing, hiking or afternoon tea at the Chateau.

Tongariro Crossing - a strenuous one-day walk between two active volcanoes. Minimum age: 10 years.

White water rafting or raft fishing - freephone 0800 101 024

Kayaking and rafting - freephone 0800 865 226

Hot springs in nearby Tokaanu Village.