Ride high in the Rockies

The Ski Train travels through spectacular scenery.

Trains might not be your first choice when travelling in America, particularly for a ski holiday. But for something different, try the Rio Grande Ski Train from Denver to Winter Park ski resort in Colorado.

It's a two-hour journey through some of the most spectacular scenery the Rockies can offer, and climbing to 2750m, it's the highest railway line in the US.

The 1960s former Canadian Pacific Railway trains - complete with bubble window observation cars - are a heap of fun. What's more, the train delivers you at 9 in the morning within metres of the Winter Park's ski lifts.

The Ski Train leaves Union Station in downtown Denver at 7.15am, so it requires an early start. You don't need breakfast first because food is available on the train, which has two cafe-coach cars and three club cars among the 17 carriages.

If you buy the club fare for US$74 ($114) - coach class is US$49 - a continental breakfast is included on the way up and apres-ski snacks on the return trip. Coach class passengers can buy food in the two cafe cars.

For those who like to do things in grand style, three private luxury carriages accommodating 70 can be hired for US$12,500.

Someone had done that on the day I was travelling and, after hearing I was a New Zealander on a familiarisation tour, he invited me to join his guests.

The luxury section customers are treated like the rail barons of old. Waiters dish up huge a la carte breakfasts at large tables complete with white linen, and the bar is open even at that early hour.

Best of all was the open observation platform at the back - the kind where presidents of yore could be seen waving from during whistle-stop tours of the country.

Although not providing quite the panoramic view available from the observation car, it is an exciting way to experience the journey, especially as the train threads around curves and plunges into one of the 28 tunnels along the way.

Staff are extremely helpful, whether lifting your gear on board or telling you about the sights. Also on board are volunteers who, in exchange for a ski lift pass, help passengers.

The train sets off after a couple of blasts on the whistle, a deep, mournful bellow reminiscent of trains in old movies. There's plenty for train lovers. The three diesel engines are venerable classics, and the carriages feature lots of wood panelling and brass.

Food and drinks are available shortly after pulling out of the station, and you can sit back in the big comfy seats and enjoy the views with your coffee or Bloody Mary, and waffles with maple syrup.

Denver is known as the mile high city (1600m) and the Ski Train climbs another 1200m. After 20 minutes across the Denver plains, the train begins its stunning ascent. The scenery is classic Rockies - snow-covered mountains and ravines covered with fir, spruce and aspen forests.

The train is long and snakes up in big arching curves that allow those in the back carriages to see the engine far ahead.

At Plainview, the sweeping vistas of the Denver plains unfold, while to the north, jagged escarpments known as the Flatirons rise behind the city of Boulder. Even more spectacular is the South Boulder Canyon.

Just before entering the 10km Moffat Tunnel, our train stopped for 20 minutes in a siding. The Ski Train shares the line with the much larger Union Pacific Railroad and warns there may be delays to allow other trains through.

The Moffat Tunnel under America's Continental Divide is a good opportunity to don your warm weather gear - each car has a dressing room and toilet. You can also buy discounted ski lift tickets on the train.

The train back to Denver leaves at 4.15pm. You can hear the whistle blowing regularly from 3pm, warning travellers to ski down.

The Ski Train operates Friday, Saturday and Sunday from late December to late March. Travellers are advised to book. For more information see the website link below.