Matahi Brightwell’s masterpiece, a tribute to Ngātoroirangi, the Te Arawa canoe navigator who guided his people to Taupō, the incredible Māori rock carvings. Photo / Ayla Yeoman
Taupō local Ayla Yeoman returns to her hometown and discovers a city packed with world-class adventures every Kiwi traveller will enjoy.
As we glide across the silky blue water, the glassy lake stretches out to snow-dusted mountains, and I wonder how I ever took this place for granted. For 18 years, Taupō was simply home – a backdrop to everyday life. Now, returning as a visitor, it feels like a treasure anyone would be lucky to witness. Resting around the crater of a supervolcano that cradles the largest lake in the Southern Hemisphere, Taupō remains one of New Zealand’s most underrated gems.
When I moved to Auckland, people asked where Taupō was and what there was to do in “such a small town.” Rookie mistake. Whether you crave adventure, culture, or simply a moment of stillness by the water, Taupō has it all – and more. International tourists flock to Rotorua and Queenstown, but what if I told you Taupō offers the same thrills with a quieter kind of magic?
Our first stop is the Huka Falls to Aratiatia Dam trail with FourB. On electric mountain bikes, we breeze through a 14 km loop past thundering waterfalls, the crystal-clear Waikato River, and steaming geothermal streams. At Huka Falls, nearly 220,000 litres of water surge every second – enough to fill an Olympic pool in 11 seconds. The roar is like thunder as the river squeezes through a volcanic canyon. The trail winds through native bush, offering glimpses of steaming vents before climbing to the Aratiatia Dam. Time it right and you’ll witness the floodgates open every two hours in summer, sending torrents crashing into the gorge below – a spectacle that feels raw and untamed.
Later, we drove out to Kinloch to meet with Venture Beyond NZ skipper Ian Cammell before boarding his water taxi. Sailing along the glassy lake, we soak up the cloudless sky before pulling up beside some hidden waterfalls that tumble into the lake like liquid silver. Mist kisses our faces as we edge closer, and for a moment, it feels like the world has paused. We hike through the bush to find another cascade, its white ribbons spilling down a mossy valley before drifting into the lake below. These Western Bays are Taupō’s secret – accessible only by boat, untouched and unforgettable.
Back in town, we wander past Graffiato murals, splashed across walls – a vibrant showcase of Taupō’s creative pulse. Then, a cruise across the lake takes us to Mine Bay, home to much older but just as creative murals. At 14 metres high, Matahi Brightwell’s famous Māori rock carvings feel spiritual, a tribute to Ngātoroirangi, the Te Arawa canoe navigator who guided his people to Taupō over a thousand years ago. Accessible only by water, the carvings are a modern gift to the lake, carved in the late 1970s after Matahi completed his training with Māori elders. As the catamaran drifts beneath the carvings, the lake mirrors the sky, and I’m struck by how much history and artistry live in these waters.
Food here is an experience in itself. At The Brantry, we dine in a cozy garden setting, savouring dishes that celebrate local flavours—think fresh seafood, slow-cooked lamb, and desserts that feel like art. Later, at L’Arte Cafe, we sip coffee surrounded by mosaics in a whimsical garden, a living gallery where creativity blooms.
For something heartier, Lakeman Brewing Co offers craft beers and a farm-to-table story worth hearing. Founder James Cooper greets us with a grin and a tale of how a local dream became an award-winning brand – Yeti mascot and all. Inside the brewery, the scent of hops hangs in the air as James explains the brewing process with infectious passion. Out on the farm, he points to the cattle that supply Jimmy Coops Lakehouse, where “paddock to patty” isn’t just a slogan. When we finally bite into those burgers – juicy, stacked high, paired with parmesan truffle fries – we know he means it.
And then there’s Two Mile Bay Sailing Club – a local favourite where the vibe is as good as the view. The place hums with energy: wood-fired pizzas fresh from the oven, live music drifting across the deck, and the sun melting into the lake as paddleboarders glide by. It’s the kind of spot where you linger long after the last slice is gone, soaking up the laughter and the golden glow of evening.
When it’s time to unwind, Wairakei Terraces deliver pure bliss. Soaking in mineral-rich geothermal waters beneath billowing steam feels like stepping into another realm. The silica terraces shimmer like frozen waterfalls, echoing the lost Pink and White Terraces of Tarawera. Carved poles tell stories of Ngāti Tūwharetoa ancestors, adding a cultural heartbeat to this geothermal sanctuary.
For an even wilder experience, Orakei Korako awaits – a geothermal wonderland of geysers, bubbling mud pools, and silica terraces that glow in hues of white and gold. A short ferry ride across the Waikato River takes you to the Hidden Valley, where steam curls through native bush and the Ruatapu Cave plunges 36 metres into the earth, ending in a mirror-like pool. It’s otherworldly – a reminder of the raw power beneath our feet.
After a day of adventure, Reef Resort is the perfect retreat. Our lakefront apartment frames views of Mt Ruapehu, Ngāuruhoe and Tongariro, their peaks glowing pink at sunset. We sink into the heated pool and spa, steam rising as the evening chill settles in. From the balcony, the lake stretches endlessly, its surface catching the last light like molten glass. It’s luxury with a laid-back Taupō soul – a place to pause, breathe and watch the world slow down.
Our final night is spent at Treetops, a glamping cabin perched above Acacia Bay. The tiny house opens onto an expansive deck with sweeping views of Lake Taupō and the Kaimanawa Ranges. Fantails flit through the bush as we soak in the outdoor hot tub under a sky full of stars. In the morning, the dawn chorus wakes us gently, and we sip coffee as sunlight spills across the lake. It’s the kind of quiet that stays with you long after you leave
Taupō isn’t just a destination – it’s a reminder to pause, to look closer, and to rediscover the beauty in your own backyard. Whether you’re chasing waterfalls, soaking in hot pools, or simply watching the sunset paint the lake, Taupō invites you to fall in love all over again.
Huka River Trail E-bike Tour | fourb.nz/huka-falls-trail
Māori Rock Carvings Cruise | chrisjolly.co.nz
Wairakei Terraces | wairakeiterraces.co.nz
Venture Beyond | venturebeyond.nz/chasing-waterfalls
Canopy Camping - Treetops | canopycamping.co.nz/treetops
New Zealand Herald Travel travelled courtesy of Love Taupō.