Yes, there are quite a few dogs on the island. The foundation has helped control them, but you can't help loving them. As with so much on the island, they are relaxed company, they are easy to be around and well mannered. One took me fishing. She loved it, stalking the crystal-clear water, nose tucked aiming to catch a fish or crab under her two front paws. Another fluffy-tailed fella was always goofing around. He stood both paws on Alan's chest hoping to entice him out of his holiday sunbathe to come and play.
The dog lying in the shade of a coffee table at Charlie's Beach Cafe and Grill enjoys paddle boarding.
He belongs to Charlie's family who have set up a resourceful shipping container-style cafe, shaded by coconut palms; a deck over white sands fringing the Tikioki Beach and marine reserve.
"Best snorkelling on Rarotonga," says Charlie.
The 25-year-old says the dogs are like locals. "They fish, they jump on paddle boards, they lie around on the beach, they chase the girls - just like the locals."
A local dog takes to the waves with a paddleboarding ride on Rarotonga. Photo / Tessa Chrisp
After snorkelling in the marine sanctuary, seeing giant clams and more variety of fish than in Muri Lagoon, we climb on board our scooter, letting our salted, tangled locks dry in the humid wind.
Stopping at a red-and-white umbrella, we are welcomed into Wayne's colourful world - he's a Rarotongan passionate about fruit who makes seriously good ice creams on the spot.
We rest in the shade, delighting in his knowledge and admiring the diversity of a coconut plant.
"Tree of life," he remarks.
Back on the scooter, the jungle whooshes by looking so lush we decide to park and walk inland.
Finding the historic site of Marae Arai Te Tonga, the map shows we are not far from the Ikurangi Summit track and soon a very jolly honey-coloured dog bounces up to us. He repeatedly runs ahead and stops as if to say "hey, come this way". So we redirect our route and follow him.
He guides us up a driveway all the while stopping to check that we are in pursuit; past private homes, pigs, pawpaw plantations and gardens to the track we might otherwise have missed. There we are joined by his mates, who are barking in a fever of excitement to come on the walk with us.
Later, and more quietly, we are escorted back to our scooter by the same happy entourage of dogs farewelling us, thanking us for the walk and quite possibly for coming to their island. Well, that's the feeling I get.
Things to do
Scootering around Rarotonga? Ride this way.
• Check out Charlie's Beach Cafe and Grill - look for the blue containers in Titikaveka - and go snorkelling in the Tikioki Marine Sanctuary right in front of the cafe. Charlie hires out paddle boards, kayaks and snorkelling gear, they even do night tours and night boarding.
• Take a stroll with Pa's Mountain Hike. Pa has the utmost respect for nature and is a delight to be around. On his cross-island trek, you'll learn about local herbal remedies and ancestral knowledge. To book, call 21079 or email: jillian@pasbungalows.com.
• Cool off with an ice cream. On sunny days, look out for the red-and-white umbrella of Cook Island Rarotongan Fruit Ice Cream just past Apartments Kakera toward Muri. Wayne makes delicious real fruit ice creams right in front of you, adding a unique ingredient of soursop fruit. He also sells fresh organic salad mixes.
CHECKLIST
Getting there: Air New Zealand flies direct to Rarotonga from Auckland six times per week.
Accommodation: There are many places to stay. Book early and look for package deals. We rented a private home through holidayhouses.co.nz.
Hiring a car: See Polynesian Rental Cars.
Further information: See cookislands.travel.
