Queensland: Bright lights of Brisbane

City lights bring sparkle to the dining precinct. Photo / Tourism and Events Queensland Jazz club

Eclectic, easy-to-navigate Brisbane is often overlooked in the rush to the Gold Coast, writes Carly Flynn.

I've been here before. I can clearly picture the long, wide river weaving through the designer concrete jungle, ferries and luxury launches cruising by.

On land, people are scattered, laughing in the sun on pockets of green. I can feel the warmth in the wind, hear the familiar Aussie twang nearby and taste the tropical fruit on my tongue. It's one of those places I feel certain I must have visited, given its proximity to New Zealand. We're three-and-a-half hours from Auckland.

But after searching deep in my mind and asking 20 questions of my nearest, I realise I've never actually visited Australia's third-largest city.

Like so many Kiwis, we've "done" the Gold Coast; dropped into the Sunshine Coast and I have that iconic photograph of me cuddling a koala at Australia Zoo.

My preconceptions of Brisbane are not far wrong. This is a happening city with its eclectic mix of old and new architecture, proximity to water, brilliant bridge designs, high-end fashion and culture.

I'm here for all of it, but culture is the first item on my agenda.

South Bank is the city's dedicated lifestyle cultural precinct with 17ha of lush gardens and gorgeous buildings. The museum, performing arts centre, library, convention centre and art gallery are all within walking distance and overlook the magnificent river. Large sculptures dot the grounds and make for interesting conversation and photographs.

I'm here for the opening of Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion at Goma, Queensland's Art Gallery. The exhibition of garments from the Kyoto Costume Institute has been curated by international fashion authority, Akiko Fukai.

It's a well-travelled exhibition, having been on display first in London four years ago, with shows in Tokyo, Munich, Seattle, Salem and Kyoto since. Brisbane is its final stop.

I don't know much about Japanese fashion, but it's soon clear just how groundbreaking and influential it has actually been on the world fashion scene.

I immediately gravitate towards the works of Issy Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto. Their work is indeed very recognisable and identifiable. Akiko has curated a collection of some of the best, most beautiful, bold and, of course, eccentric fashion to come out of Japan in 30 years.

Carly at Goma's Japanese fashion exhibition. Photo / Supplied

The simple, the beautiful, the crazy, the futuristic, all designed to inspire, question, wonder and take your breath away. I feel like I've stepped into the high street fashion houses in the very heart of Japan.

It's a great start to a long girls' weekend in the city, the hip Harajuku girls blow kisses and I leave Goma with their sense of fun, and a burning desire to shop up a storm.

It's lucky then that I discover James St, Brisbane's shopfront to some of Australia's best. The street is lined with fig trees providing welcome shade from the Queensland sun, and the windows pop out at you with the colours of Gorman, the cool of Sass & Bide, and the classic beauty of Scanlan Theodore.

A perfumery here identifies your "perfect scent" for life and you can channel royalty by eating an incredible brownie that the Duchess of Cambridge and Prince William reportedly had couriered to their offshore island getaway.

This is the precinct for shopping and lunching, pubbing and clubbing. Harvey's, in the middle of the street, boasts elegant, healthy and impeccably served food with a casual approach, and is a sublime spot for lunch. The owner PJ McMillan (an ex-Kiwi) has made his mark here with his signature fresh and locally sourced food.

I find the shop assistants overly friendly, helpful and even if you're just there to look, they're interested. And in the city's bustling CBD, in Queen St, it's just the same. It's another shopping and cultural hub, from Tiffany's to Sportsgirl, street performers, juice bars and groovy living walls make for a vibrant CBD any time of day or night.

I'm staying in Queen St, in the new Next Hotel, the country's first smartphone-capable hotel where, if you desired, you can do everything from the touch of your in-room smart phone, or download the app to do it from your own. Including ordering room service or a cocktail from the pool.

It's a classy hotel that reeks of New York, but is a calm oasis in the middle of the Queen St hustle and bustle.

I discover their genius sleep pods just before my flight home - they offer a 20-minute nap capsule complete with meditative music for guests to use at any time.

Carly Flynn shopped up a storm in Brisbane. Photo / Supplied

The thing I'm most impressed about in Brisbane is just how easy it is to get around. There are six bridges here, most of which you can drive, bus, cycle or walk across, making it an accessible and active city.

This is a city that promotes getting out of the car and on to a bike or walkway; no mean feat as we Kiwis know. The CityCat offers wonderful public transport, and gives you a gorgeous glimpse into some of the most luxurious riverside homes as you cruise by.

By night, the river reflects the gorgeous lights that shine bright on many of the buildings, and riverside dining is an absolute must. We eat at Jellyfish, which sources the best seafood this abundant region has to offer. It serves up to 14 species of fish, and the chef personally recommends how best to cook and eat them.

This is a city of the future; it's stylish, warm, friendly and accessible. Brisbane is not just a gateway to the Gold or Sunshine Coasts, but a fantastic destination in its own right.

CHECKLIST

Getting there: Air New Zealand offers four in-flight Economy choices when flying to Brisbane: Seat, Seat + Bag, The Works and Works Deluxe, plus Business class.

Exhibition: Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion is
on at Goma until February.

The writer travelled as a guest of Air New Zealand and Tourism and Events Queensland.