Queensland: Beyond the reef

Fantasea Reefworld sits among Great Barrier Reef near the Whitsundays. Photo / Supplied

Jellyfish aren't fond of getting out of your way. Not even the little ones. Jacques Cousteau I am not. My sparse to non-existent jellyfish knowledge does not stretch to which species are the deadliest.

So when I look up from the assorted wonders of Great Barrier Reef to find a small, pink-and-orange tentacly fella shimmying towards me, I almost turn myself inside out to get out if its way.

And on it swims, quite untroubled by my flailing, although now my subconscious starts to imagine a tiny, watery snicker aimed in my direction.

In fact, "stinger" season on the reef is November to March, rather than July, which is when I visit, and I later learn the risks come from the nasty box jellyfish or Irukandji.

So now I feel a little foolish.

But that still doesn't stop the staff aboard Fantasea Reefworld recommending all snorkellers don stinger suits as a precaution.

Franky, I think the sight of all these pear-shaped humans thrashing about in what amounts to delightful, flesh-coloured lycra body condoms, is likely to scare any remaining jellyfish right out of the water.

Reefworld is a large pontoon that sits on Great Barrier's Hardy Reef, about 70km, or two-hours' boat ride, from Shute Harbour on the Australian mainland or Hamilton Island in the Whitsundays.

It's the kind of fairly touristy place that most likely makes intrepid Cousteau-wannabe scuba divers roll their eyes, but if you're travelling with kids, have a limited amount of time or aren't especially confident in your snorkelling/diving abilities it's a fantastic way to get a taste for the wonders of the Great Barrier Reef.

The pontoon includes an underwater viewing chamber, a semi-submersible vessel that chugs back and forth along the reef, a groper-viewing station, helicopter rides and, of course, snorkelling and diving equipment.

The best advice is to hit the semi-submersible first. The vessel, which seats about 20 people, has large windows either side and is an excellent way to acquaint yourself with the sea-life before getting in the water yourself.

The onboard guide will give you a run-down on everything you see, some things to look out for and general information on the health and history of the reef.

After that, you really want to get in among it, so it's time to don the dreaded stinger suit and submerge yourself in the warm waters.

The place is teeming with sea life. Everywhere you turn there's a new nook or cranny hiding something fabulous.

And the longer you spend in the water, the more you pick up the personalities of the different types of fish. From the silvery schools that shimmer past without a thought, to the friendly blue chap who swims constantly beside my head, disappearing only when I turn to look at him, like some endlessly amusing marine practical joke.

Rest stations along the stretch of reef are handy for tired kids or for those swimming against the current on the way back - and everybody's under the watchful eye of staff.

Back on the boat, we admire George, the 3m-long groper who meanders past the deck's viewing station, glaring balefully up from under the boat.

Then we head down to the viewing chamber to have another look at the thriving underwater community - the vista interrupted occasionally by wild splashes as kids hit the water from the slide, which drops from the pontoon sun-deck.

The icing on the cake, though, comes with a helicopter ride over the reef. If the place is beautiful underwater, it is something quite surreal from the air.

Our pilot takes us on a quick, 10-minute circuit over the maze of interconnecting reefs and pools - past the famous Heart Reef (the most photographed reef in the world) - and back to the pontoon.

It's a fast but fantastic way to get an idea of the scale of the Great Barrier that you don't get under water.

After four hours at Reefworld you feel like you've seen one of the world's seven natural wonders from all angles. The perfect teaser to make you want to return.

Kerri Jackson flew to Queensland with Pacific Blue.