Polynesian paradise found

Tahiti's Leeward Islands offer everything from upmarket grandeur to village living. JENNY HAWORTH reports.

The Leeward Islands - Bora Bora, Huahine, Raiatea and Tahaa - invite visitors to relax, to share the unhurried ways of the past and to learn something of the traditional Polynesian culture and its links with New Zealand.

In Huahine and Raiatea, well off the tourist trail, it is possible to discover ancient Polynesia, where men were ruled by warlike gods through their emissaries the arii (priests). Bora Bora has many resorts to cater for an increasing number of visitors.

The mysterious monoliths of Bora Bora capture the imagination, suggesting a world of fantasy. The sense of the primeval is strong. The island's great volcanic plugs and sharp-toothed mountains rise steeply from a girdle of green bush and palms. From the lagoon or a reef motu (small island) it is difficult to pick out the collar of resorts fringing the best beaches.

But Bora Bora's greatest jewel is its large lagoon, an artist's palette of many shades, from the purest turquoise to the deepest emerald. Its colour depends on the time of day - at noon it shimmers like a great necklace of diamonds.

Surrounding the lagoon and lying on top of the reef are numerous motus, ideal spots for picnics and bases for snorkellers and divers. Another popular activity is feeding the relatively harmless reef sharks, which put up a savage display as they tussle for food.

Don't miss an area to the south-east of the island called Coral Garden where a kaleidoscope of brilliantly coloured fish flick through the many-hued coral. Most resorts have a specialist who can explain the teeming variety of fish and coral. Bora Bora is believed to have some 700 varieties of tropical fish.

The road around the island's edge is only 32km and is largely flat. Many resorts have bicycles for hire and these are an excellent way to get around.

Bora Bora was a forgotten paradise until the Americans arrived in 1942 to set up a supply base. Up to 6000 men passed an idyllic war far from any real action. When they arrived, there were no roads, only coral tracks wide enough for bicycles, and streams were crossed by coconut log bridges.

There was no airport nor any running water or electricity. One of their first tasks was to build the airport on Motu Mute and since then Bora Bora has been a holidaymakers' island.

People come here from all over the world. But it is the most expensive of the Leeward Islands. Many of the resorts offer six-star luxury, often with bungalows built over the water.

HUAHINEHuahine offers a different type of holiday. Tourism does not dominate the island and the locals are proud they have retained their Polynesian traditions. Many local artists make their homes here, inspired by the island's lush greenery and rich history.

Coconut trees flourish, as do plantations of vanilla, nono and tropical fruits like watermelon, cantaloupe and paw paw. Flowering shrubs like hibiscus, jasmine and ylang ylang line many of the narrow roads, while the interior is a dense green jungle.

This fertility is reflected in its name. Hua means phallus and is a recognisable rock on Huahine-iti; hine comes from the Polynesian for woman - vahine.

In the hill above the waterfront town of Fare is a statue of an enormous woman who spreads her legs and prepares to give birth to the fecundity of the island.

Huahine is virtually two separate islands, Huahine-nui and Huahine-iti, linked by a narrow sand bar. Both islands were created by volcanoes and the deep bays on either side were formed when the sea eroded their sides and flooded the crater.

But the Polynesians have a more colourful explanation. They believe the great Hiro, god of geological formations, ran into the island with his canoe and split it in half.

A special feature of Huahine is the way the archaeological sites have been preserved. The largest is at Maeva where 10 marae jut out into the lagoon. These extensive stone platforms with ahu (altars) have been restored gradually and in the wind whispering in the coconuts you catch snatches of the great gatherings of the past.

At times, the area must have been crowded by thousands of Polynesians who arrived by canoes from other islands.

Nearby on Lake Fauna Nui, V-shaped fish traps with their great circular holding tanks have been restored. The lake, with its mix of fresh and salt water, is often filled with fish.

The Maohi devised a way of trapping them and keeping them alive as the tide cleansed the pools. The restored traps are again used by the local Polynesians.

The main town of Fare is a relaxed place with a small market on the foreshore. Tahitian food wagons line up under the trees and behind them are various magasins and boutiques.

A tour is essential to explore the archaeological sites, the lush island scenery and numerous plantations.

There are far fewer hotels on Huahine and many visitors stay in local pensions run by the French. They are comfortable but have the disadvantage that everyone appeared to go to bed by 9.30 pm.

The major hotels, Huahine Te Tiare Beach resort and Sofitel Coralia Heiva Huahine, offer far more of a holiday atmosphere.

RAIATEARaiatea is linked by one encircling coral reef with its neighbouring island of Tahaa. It also has limited numbers of tourists, and many drop in by cruise ship or collect a charter yacht to sail to other islands in the Leeward group.

Most stop in or near the main town, Uturoa. Although it is the second-largest town in French Polynesia, it is little more than a large village. Its main attraction is the vibrant market.

For Polynesians, Raiatea is the cradle of its civilisation. It may well have been from here that Polynesians left for the long voyage to New Zealand, and there is some thought that Maori might have returned to Taputapuatea for religious ceremonies.

To reach Taputapuatea you need to join a tour as the marae lies 42km south of Uturoa over unsealed roads. It is really an immense platform of carved blocks of coral. At one end is a raised altar and sited amidst the platform are various upright stones, thought to have been backrests for important chiefs or perhaps inscribed with genealogies.

In its most sacred area, Marae Tauraa, stands the stone of investiture where young chiefs were probably enthroned. Taputapuatea was so sacred that for a while all marae built in Eastern Polynesia had to incorporate a stone from there.

Taputapuatea reached the height of its power in the 18th century when it was dedicated to the God of War, Oro. He became dominant in the pantheon of gods and was not overthrown until the Christian God arrived. Then this marae was deserted

TAHAA

Tahaa is the least touristy of all the islands. Here the Polynesians live in villages, work their gardens or fish in the lagoon. Some have a small income from working the vanilla plantations.

Most visitors arrive by charter yacht and are amazed at the way village life has survived. There are no resorts on Tahaa but there are small hotels and pensions. Most are for those who want a complete escape and to enjoy a variety of water-based activities.

* Jenny Haworth travelled courtesy of Tahiti Tourism and Air Tahiti Nui.

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