From tranquil beaches to vibrant Old Town, here’s how to experience the best of Phuket. Photo / 123RF
From tranquil beaches to vibrant Old Town, here’s how to experience the best of Phuket. Photo / 123RF
Phuket is best known for its sun-kissed beaches and lively nightlife, but Thailand’s largest island offers visitors so much more, writes Tiana Templeman.
Whether you love to party or prefer a little peace, Phuket has something for everyone. Nature lovers can watch gibbons swing through the trees up north in Khao Phra Thaew National Park while revellers dance the night away down south in Patong and the fascinating history of Old Phuket comes alive with a side order of excellent drinking and dining options. Add the dramatic coastline and pristine beaches the island is famous for and you’ve got yourself the perfect holiday destination.
Phuket is a big island – around the same size as Singapore, in fact – but it’s easy to get around. All you need is a current driving licence and nerves of steel to hire a car or motorbike, although the well-signed roads and courteous local drivers make navigating easier than you might think. If you don’t want to drive, use the Grab rideshare app or take a taxi or tuk-tuk. If you’re using the latter, negotiate the fare in advance. There’s also the slow but affordable “public bus” known as the sawngthaew (two rows) with bench seats on either side for a leisurely trip alongside the locals.
Phuket is roughly the same size as Singapore but has a much more laid-back vibe. Photo / Trevor Templeman
Where to eat
Phuket’s sensational cuisine is reason enough to visit, with everything from exquisite fine dining to sizzling street stalls available throughout the island. Slip into sophisticated Silk Restaurant at Kamala Beach for a taste of contemporary Thai or visit Rawai pier where fresh seafood is hauled off a fleet of boats each afternoon. Smoky aromas from the grills that spring up along the pier fill the air, making it impossible to resist pulling up a seat beside the locals and feasting on lobster as the sun goes down. If you want to try Phuket’s tasty street food, these seafood grills are a good choice for nervous first-timers. Follow the crowds and be prepared to line up to discover the best spots.
The street food scene in Phuket is world-renowned, with fresh seafood grilled right on the pier. Photo / Trevor Templeman
Things to do
When it comes to excursions, activities range from snorkelling to monkey spotting, flying through the jungle on a zip line or spending a day touring Phuket’s islands. Just like Australia, all Thailand beaches are public so there’s no need to pay to book a deck chair to enjoy the best stretches of sand. If you’re after a great beach offering something extra special, Mai Khao Beach, the longest beach in Phuket, is where nesting turtles come to lay their eggs from November to February. Conveniently, this also happens to be the best time for swimming here.
Further down the coast, you’ll find another beach that is a world away from the peaceful atmosphere of Mai Khao. Hat Patong raises its glass to tourism with a cheerful “ca-ching”, offering beach-goers everything from fruit cocktails to cocktail frocks, all from the comfort of their sun lounger. Right at the bottom of the east coast there’s laid-back Nai Han where, unlike popular Patong, you’ll generally find more Thais than tourists. During winter the calm waters are ideal for swimming although it’s a different story during the monsoon when giant waves reminiscent of those found in Hawaii pound the shore and make for a spectacular sight.
Island hopping stop at Khai Nok. Photo / Trevor Templeman
Away from the beaches, the charming historic area known as Old Phuket in the back streets of the “big smoke”, Phuket City, on the eastern side of the island beckons. It was tin mining that originally lured travellers to Phuket, and the European-style mansions once home to Chinese miners show how lucrative this industry once was, before being overtaken by tourism in the 1970s. Many of the 19th-century buildings are being restored and local artists and entrepreneurs have embraced the area, opening eclectic galleries, coffee shops and restaurants inside many of the old shop houses lining the narrow streets. Late in the evening, soft lights and cool jazz add a touch of romance to this historic area, where the mood changes yet again after the sun goes down.
Soi Romanee street scene in Old Phuket. Photo / Trevor Templeman
However, despite all these fabulous things to see and do, Phuket’s infamous party town remains the best-known destination on the island. Patong is best for open-minded travellers who enjoy hedonistic partying combined with “adult entertainment” and is a bit like that loud, zany guest you seem to find at every party. While they can be a lot of fun and it’s impossible not to laugh at their outrageous antics, one night in their company is usually more than enough for most people.
Despite its party reputation, Phuket has plenty of serene hideaways, from Nai Harn to Pansea Beach. Photo / Trevor Templeman
Where to stay
Phuket has accommodation options to suit every holiday budget, whether you want to party or enjoy a quiet, romantic getaway. Located on the untouched northwest coast near Sirinath National Park, Anantara Mai Khao Phuket Villas come with a plunge pool and outdoor tub sprinkled with orchids and fragrant frangipani. King-size daybeds surround the main pool and peaceful Mai Khao beach is just a few steps away. Pansea Beach looks like something from a picture postcard, with a white sandy crescent bookended by boulder-strewn headlands with water so clear you can see the fish. There are only a couple of resorts here, including the Amanpuri and The Surin which costs a fraction of the price of its exclusive neighbour. If you’re planning on staying at sleepy Nai Harn, book early as accommodation options are somewhat limited and frequently snapped up by local tourists.
Even popular tourist destinations like Kamala have a village-like atmosphere and, aside from a persistent tailor or two, travellers are left alone to enjoy it. Two minutes south along Layi-Nakalay Rd, Andara Phuket is perched above the sweeping curve of Kamala bay. Each morning, a gentle breeze rustling the trees is the only sound as hummingbirds flit around the flowers outside my window. At night the beach is lit by lights from local restaurants and the glow of paper lanterns rising towards the sky. It’s a magical place a world away from the bright lights of Patong.
Many of Phuket’s luxury resorts, like Anantara Mai Khao, blend Thai tradition with modern comfort. Photo / Anantara Mai Khao
Checklist
Phuket, Thailand
GETTING THERE
Air New Zealand and Singapore Airlines fly to Phuket via Singapore, and Malaysia Airlines offers flights via Kuala Lumpur with a flight time of just over 14 hours.
