KEY POINTS:
While footy fans were yesterday ensconced in Wellington's Westpac Stadium oggling Goldenballs Beckham, those who prefer good coffee, great food and a little shopping could have done worse than ditch the footballers for the next train to Petone.
Some 20 years ago, this quaint heritage suburb, home
to one of the country's oldest European settlements on the northern shores of Wellington Harbour, had fallen on hard times. Much of its staple commerce and industry was long gone and with Wellington city just a short, cheap train ride away, the big-spending developers of the 1980s saw little commercial value in what was fast becoming an urban ghost town.
That economic disinterest was, ironically, the suburb's saving grace. Today the heart of Petone - Jackson St - is a pretty, quirky, well-preserved shopping precinct, lined with wooden, colonial shop fronts which are home to an ever-increasing number of cafes, restaurants and boutique stores. Add the beautiful and still slightly wild foreshore into the mix and Petone becomes an excellent day-trip option for visitors to the capital.
Trains to Petone depart Wellington Railway Station every 15-30 minutes, depending on the time of day. The train ride itself is quite scenic, running down the Hutt Valley line along the hem of Wellington harbour offering beautiful views of the city behind you, Petone Foreshore ahead and Eastbourne across the water. Petone station is conveniently located at the end of Jackson St, so just hop off and start walking.
Once you're passed the big stores such as Pak `N' Save and Mitre 10 you'll hit the true heart of Petone. Jackson St's strip of old colonial shops is refreshingly free of the chain stores found in other suburban centres. Instead there is Kilim for Turkish food and gifts, Screaming Turtle for great breakfasts and Caffiend for coffee, roasted locally, or Lifestyle Organics if you want to buy your food fresh and healthy.
Dotted between the thriving cafes are a number of unique boutiques whether you're after fashion (Goodness), gifts (Banyan Tree or Jewel to name but two) or - just to veer back to food for a minute - Bookfeast, which specialises in food books from all over the world.
Of course, if you're after Italian, then Petone is also home to the divine La Bella Italia. Found off the beaten track of Jackson St and not too far from the foreshore, it's a must-visit. Part Italian food store, part restaurant, delicious meals can be eaten among shelves stocked with the best Italian foods and wine. It's total immersion for Italian foodies.
Once you've had your fill of pasta and red wine, a walk along the foreshore seems an excellent idea. It can, on occasion, be blustery. But then that's how you know you're in Wellington, right? The sandy beach is ideal for family swims, and the mix of easy tracks and boardwalks makes the stroll extremely pleasant - it's also perfectly accessible to those with prams or wheelchairs. There are reserves at either end, including a playground and tennis courts at Hikoikoi or, if you're extra keen, consider taking the Hutt River Trail from the mouth of the river all the way to Upper Hutt.
On the other hand, you could just bring a coffee down from Jackson St, and sit admiring the view - until the next train's due.
- Detours, HoS