Paying the price to enjoy beauty of the Himalayas

Conversation always came back to the beauty of the Himalayas.

The Maoist rebel appeared out of nowhere. It was 6.30am and I had been up at Poon Hill watching the sun rise over the Himalayas. Keen to head back for some hot banana porridge, I strode ahead of the masses at a hungry pace. Halfway down, about 3000m above sea level, a man in combat gear stood by a huge boulder - a rifle slung over his back, a belt of ammunition hanging around his chest.

At this time in the morning in such cold temperatures, I thought, it could only be a man with a cause: a Maoist, or a "mouse" as my guide would say in his pidgin English.

The fearless looking "mouse" politely asked if I had a receipt.

So far, I'd only heard about these rebels in the media. The New Zealand Government had warned against travelling to Nepal. Not all insurance companies covered this region and worried friends thought I was taking a risk. I almost cancelled my six-week trip.

But seeing this man and how he operated, I realised there is no real threat to tourists. In fact, without foreign trekkers, the rebel movement would be far less prosperous. My "voluntary donation" of 1200 rupees ($24) buys a packet of ammunition. In peak season the Maoists collect up to 1 million rupees ($19,580) each day from tourists.

So I handed over my "voluntary" donation without hesitation knowing too well what happens to those who refuse. Earlier in the season, some Israeli trekkers did not oblige and instead let their fists do the talking. It is believed they were visited during the night and the score evened.

Wanting to know where my money was going, I asked the Maoist. New schools and a new government were among the things he mentioned. But talk to the locals and they laugh. "India and China get your money - they sell the guns."

Ghorepani, a popular trekking village on the Annapurna circuit and Jomsom trail, is a Maoist stronghold. Two years ago the Maoists burnt the police checkposts and captured the district as they have done in many places around the country. Every evening they visit hotels to collect donations from tourists. Even if you are not in the hotel you are certain to meet them as all three paths leading in and out of the village are manned.

Sure enough, I had my second encounter with the rebels as I left Ghorepani. Less than 20 minutes into the walk, two recruits stopped me. One a male and the other a female who was wrapped in a yak's wool shawl and could have passed as any village woman. No guns, no army fatigue, just a receipt book and a pocket full of money. I whipped out my receipt proving that I'd already supported their cause and swiftly moved on.

Talking to Nepalis, it is easy to get a muddled view of the situation. Most fear the Maoists for their brutal killings of Government officials and non-abiding villagers. Some talk of family members who have been coerced into becoming Maoist recruits, often leaving behind their child orphans. Others talk of having to house and feed the Maoists when they visit, yet not having enough rice to feed their own family.

Many however welcome the Maoist rebel movement in their fight to overthrow the Government and fervently believe the rebels will attain freedom and abundance for them and their country.

While the locals talked in whispers for fear of being heard by either party, the political conflict was frequently talked about among trekkers; each with their own take on the situation.

Ultimately though, conversation always came back to the beauty of the Himalayas, the very reason we were all there. From the impressive snowy peaks to the ever humble and peaceful inhabitants, Nepal is triumphant - a true winner. As they say, the world's most natural high.

* The Ministry of Foreign Affairs and and Trade last week repeated its warning that "New Zealanders should defer tourist and non-essential travel given the ongoing security situation in Nepal." The ministry noted that on February 1 "the King of Nepal dismissed the Government, assumed direct control and declared a state of emergency. Currently the international airport is closed and communication networks (telephone and mobile phones) have been shut down. In Kathmandu the streets are being patrolled. Until the situation becomes clearer we advise New Zealanders to exercise particular caution and vigilance."