The Paris end of Melbourne. Photo / Visit Victoria
For those wanting a city break with French flair, without the long-haul flight, the Paris end of Melbourne might just be simply irresistible, writes Dani Wright.
Romantically dubbed the “Paris end of Melbourne” thanks to its elegant architecture, leafy streets and high-end shops and dining, the eastern end of Collins Street is where you’ll find couples promenading rather than rushing, and a decidedly slower, more considered pace.
However, discovering the area’s most luxurious, discerning spots, often (tucked down little laneways or inside heritage-listed buildings), can require a little insider help.
On a tip-off from personal stylist Meagan Harding, who can be booked for private shopping trips, I seek out Christine on Collins, a high-end boutique owned by Christine Barro, credited with introducing European fashion to Melbourne.
In the second floor “Welcome Room”, with her signature red tartan rugs dotted around the floor, Christine takes me carefully around her collections, as if they are exhibitions in an art gallery, sharing intimate stories about the designers, fine materials and master techniques.
Accessories include micro gold dot jewellery by Sia Taylor, who created her fine, hand-crafted jewellery from her Somerset farm after being inspired by the delicate beauty of the tiny seeds she saw while volunteering in Botswana, and Elle Top’s La Dame du Lac jewellery, which has a surprise day and night version in each piece. There are also structural pieces by First Nations designer Grace Lillian Lee, who recently showed her first couture collection in Paris, and the latest collection of Martin Grant, a Melbourne boy turned Parisian fashion star, as well as musician Nick Cave’s wife Susie’s end-of-line The Vampire’s Wife dresses.
And although this end of Melbourne is full to the brim of big-name designer brands, it’s also home to smaller, boutique stores. At 80 Collins, down the private Benson Walk, you’ll find luxury French leather goods from Faure le Plage, and Above the Clouds, a two-storey boutique with curated local and international brands, including some Australian-exclusives.
Of course, to be Parisienne is to enjoy great food, and the area certainly has an impressive selection of fine-dining restaurants. Standouts include former Chef of the Year Andrew McConnell’s 1920s-inspired Gimlet dining room, set in the grand Cavendish House. Try the seasonal menu, including Southern rock lobster and Blackmore 9+ wagyu sirloin, or opt for the Giaveri Beluga caviar service with cocktails.
If you’re in the mood for French food, try Phillippe Restaurant run by Philippe Mouchel, a strong contender for Melbourne’s favourite French chef and protege of the late Paul Bocuse, the only chef in France to have been awarded three Michelin stars for more than 40 consecutive years. If you call ahead, you can order Le canard a la Rouennaise a la presse, a dish only offered in a handful of exclusive restaurants around the world, and only on offer at Philippe in a very limited number. Other classics, when in season, include Lobster Thermidor, and barramundi “en croute”, Mouchel’s homage to Bocuse. Unsurprisingly, these spots are in high demand, so book a table ahead of time to avoid disappointment.
Bars to visit in the area include Circl Wine House, offering an extensive by-the-glass list of 150+ bottles, including rarely seen access to limited-edition and hard-to-get bottles usually shared with only a few behind closed doors, or the 40-seat Backspace Bar, bringing an intimate neighbourhood feel to the Paris End and offering Japanese-inspired highballs and retro cocktails.
If you’re staying the night, it’s a short stroll from Backspace Bar to the five-star Grand Hyatt, which is set in a prime location on Collins St. Its entrance is marked by two prominent sculptured eagles, honouring the Indigenous creator deity Bunjil and its rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows to take in the cityscapes, tree-lined streets and heritage churches below. The rooftop tennis court, basketball and golf-driving range, as well as 24/7 health club, offer the perfect antidote to wining and dining, or walk to the nearby Fitzroy Gardens to stretch your legs. It’s one of Melbourne’s most historic and beautiful gardens with magnificent elm trees and architecturally significant cottages, rotunda, band pavilion and Spanish mission-style conservatory.
Those embracing a ‘French’ getaway could also stay at the five-star French-owned Sofitel Melbourne on Collins, where you’ll be greeted with ‘bonjour’ and enjoy elegant interiors with guest rooms showcasing the photographic works of Jon Rendell and Claire Ropartz, their black and white photography highlighting both Melbourne and Paris sights. Try the Weekend High Tea at No35 Restaurant with its pretty views across the city and a combination of local and French cuisine.
Before you leave, stock up on macarons from La Belle Miette, which have been ranked as among the best in the world and “better than [from] Paris”, by international media outlets, or line up for the cult-status Lune croissants, beloved for their unparalleled precision and quality, created by former aerospace engineer Kate Reid and described by The New York Times as “the finest you will find anywhere in the world”.
Strolling around the Paris End of Melbourne, peeling back its layers, you’ll realise that it’s not trying to be a replica of Paris, but, instead, it’s here that it reveals its more refined and elegant side, like a hidden city within the city.
The writer stayed in Melbourne courtesy of the Grand Hyatt Melbourne.