In search of secluded beaches, coconut palms and chilled-out island vibes, Sara Bunny takes a blissful break in Samoa.
Circling the edge of one of the most photographed pits in the Pacific, I'm straining my neck to catch the first glimpse of Samoa's Insta-famous swimming hole below. Just as the shadowy walls of the To Sua Ocean Trench are coming into view, something extraordinary happens. Suddenly, the sun pierces between the clouds and the water appears to flash and shiver, before settling into an emerald glow so impossibly vivid it's like it's being lit from within. Audible gasps ripple around the small group of onlookers at the boundary fence, followed by a collective fumbling for cameras. It's the first of many magical moments on my five-day island adventure.
Here, where coconut palms and dense bush blankets the countryside between villages, and bits of coral wash ashore on white sandy beaches, the island is finally back open for business after Covid pulled the handbrake on everyone's fun. Since the first planeload of holidaymakers arrived in early August, tourist numbers have been picking up steam and the once quiet resorts are starting to hum again.
But you won't find flashy set-ups and overly-manicured perfection - that's just not Samoa's vibe. Untamed and real, it's the sort of place where Mother Nature does what she likes, paradise might be at the end of a pot-holed country road, and buses don't run to any timetable. Each day seems to unfold at its own pace, so the best thing to do is relax and go with the flow. And that sounds like a great idea to me.
"There's only one thing a Samoan man's scared of", says the buff, tattooed guy at the Cultural Village in Apia, the island's capital. "His mum!" Following an ava ceremony and an incredible peek inside a hut where traditional ink was being etched into a stoic torso, we're now getting a comical rundown of family roles. It's the blokes' job to prepare and cook the meals in the umu (earth oven), we're told, and anyone not pulling their weight risks a whack from Mum's Jandal.
True to their word, the labour around the smoking pile of volcanic rocks pays off. Soon, we're chomping on delicious plates of palusami, (spinach balls with onion and coconut cream), mopped up with taro and breadfruit still steaming from the underground cooker. It's a dish they must have made a million times for tour groups, but the pride for culture and traditions is palpable. In a country halfway between New Zealand and Hawaii, Samoans consider their land to be the heart of the Pacific, and it's easy to see there's heart in spades.
There are also natural wonders, and the trip to To Sua Ocean Trench is top of my sightseeing list. The sky is turning from ominous concrete-grey to cornflower blue and back again as our group sets off east of Apia on Upolu, one of the country's two main islands. Having studied the weather before arriving, I'm not holding out much hope.
"Someone needs to tell TV1 News that it doesn't constantly rain in Samoa," says Chi-Chi, our affable tour guide. They always make it look way worse than it actually is!"
Every so often, we pass through a village where each section features a traditional fale Samoa (open-sided house) as well as a fale palagi (English-style house), with the headstones of the family burial plot out front. The regular showers rumble through and disappear as fast as they arrive, dripping off the vibrant hibiscus and teuila flowers festooning front gardens and providing a respite from the island heat.
Near the village of Lotofaga, we turn off towards an unassuming signpost marked "To Sua". On this family-owned patch of land lies one of Samoa's biggest tourism drawcards: a sparkling sinkhole up to 30m deep when the tide's right. It can get busy but today, there's only a handful of us descending the wooden ladder towards the jewel-toned waters below.
As tiny electric-blue fish dart beneath us, we each take turns jumping off the platform near the water's surface into the surprisingly warm pool. After a particularly ungraceful belly flop, I stick to floating on my back and gazing up at the cavernous walls draped in delicate green vines, all while pinching myself in case it's a dream. I can attest it looks just like the Insta photos, #nofilterneeded.
Later, on a blissful afternoon of beach-hopping, we stop in at nearby Vavau, which features a sheltered inlet at one end and a row of coconut palms so perfect they're almost cartoonish. Further along the coast, Lalomanu Beach is a long strip of pristine sand with day fales for lounging, and it's a popular spot for snorkelling and sea kayaking.
Whereas some island havens are small enough to circumnavigate on an e-scooter, Samoa's attractions are widespread. It's over an hour's drive back to Apia, where we stop in at the Piula Cave Pool for the last dip of the day. Located on the grounds of the Methodist Theological College, where every Samoan family dreams of their son studying to be a pastor, the spring-fed waters are strikingly clear and the fearless resident fish stop by for a friendly nibble of toes.
Back at our stylish digs at Taumeasina Island Resort, the poolside sun loungers are calling. As luck would have it, we've struck the resort's weekly barbecue night, and the generous feast of meats, seafood and salads is the perfect way to top off a day's exploring.
You can't go far in Apia without spotting a reference to Scottish writer Robert Louis Stevenson. And when it comes to highlights near the capital, the Robert Louis Stevenson Museum is not to be missed. The famed Treasure Island and Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde author spent the latter chunk of his short life here, developed a country mansion with expansive gardens, and completely endeared himself to locals.
Up the winding driveway at the estate, the museum grounds are an impressive oasis of carefully-clipped lawns, towering ancient palms and plumes of tropical colour. Inside are photos and artefacts, first editions in a glass case and replicas of the furniture the Stevensons carted across from Scotland. The museum tour is another must, and includes in-depth anecdotes about the author's life and a moving account of how villagers and estate workers made a human chain to transport Stevenson's body up the mountain behind the house for burial.
In order to beat the heat and the crowds, I'm told early mornings are the best time to take the walk up to the gravesite. Fearing the midday sun, I decide against the hike, but soaking up the history and surrounds from the estate's breezy balcony feels truly special. It's easy to see why Stevenson, named Tusitala or "teller of tales" by the locals, fell in love with the place.
Clouds are rolling over again as we take an early morning ferry across Apolima Strait, bound for Samoa's other main island. Savaii is even more lush and leafy, less populous than Upolu, and dotted with everything from thunderous waterfalls and rainforest valleys, to otherworldly lava fields and ancient rock pools. But it's nature's high-speed water jets, aka the Alofaaga Taga blowholes, that steal the limelight.
About an hour's drive from the wharf, down a farm road undulating with craters, this craggy corner of coast is known for its frequent displays of 30m-high water spouts. Throwing coconut husks into the holes and watching them soar from the natural fountains is all part of the fun, and it isn't long before we're all carrying on like school kids as the projectiles start flying.
Other island highlights include slipping into the blissful swimming hole at Afu A'au waterfall, and taking in a traditional tapa cloth-making demonstration at a local family's fale while a gentle breeze wafts through the open walls. Here, the slow and steady rhythm of village life is so soothing, even the chooks ambling on the side of the road seem chilled out.
Back in Upolu for my final night, I enjoy an all-too-brief stay at a resort called Return to Paradise, which also happened to be the setting for a 1953 movie of the same name. With its pristine private beach lined with loungers, spectacular sunsets and palm-lined pathways, it's paradise indeed. And I'm already dreaming of my return.
Carry tala
While credit cards are accepted in the larger hotels, elsewhere, cash is king. Whether you're stocking up on snacks at a local superette or paying entry fees at attractions, you need to have some tala (local currency) handy. Hotels often treat guests to cultural shows, and it's customary to put a note or two in the basket to tip the performers.
Island eats
When it comes to places to grab a bite, top picks on Upolu include Saletoga Sands Resort restaurant, Pickled Lam Scalini's, and Nourish Cafe in Apia for huge plates of vegetarian fare and healthy smoothies. On Savaii, try Harbourside Cafe by the wharf, and Amoa Resort restaurant for hearty salads and seafood dishes.
Hire your own wheels
With many of the natural attractions located on privately-owned land across rural corners of the islands, hiring a car is the easiest way to see the sights. Samoans drive on the left and traffic is light to moderate.
Pack seasickness pills
If you're a queasy type and you're headed across to Savaii on the ferry, best come prepared. The ride is less than an hour-and-a half long, but the stretch of water between the two main islands can get choppy, even in mild weather.
Ask the locals
Whether you want to book a tour, organise ferry crossings, hire a car or suss out ideas for your next adventure, your best port of call is the Samoa Tourism Authority Visitor Information Fale. It's well-resourced and located just along from the Government Building on Beach Rd, central Apia. While you're there, pop into the excellent Cultural Village next door.
Getting there and visitor requirements
Air New Zealand flies direct from Auckland to Apia. All travellers to Samoa must present proof of Covid-19 vaccination, as well as a negative Covid-19 test (either a supervised RAT taken within 24 hours of departure or a PCR test taken within 48-hours of departure.) Travellers are also required to take a supervised RAT within the first three days of arrival in Samoa.
For more, see samoa.travel
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