On a clear day, the approach to New Caledonia is spectacular. The lagoons surrounding the handful of islands that make up the territory span more than 24,000 square kilometres, and its reef system is second only in size to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef - though possibly in better condition.
In 2008 the reefs and lagoons were added to the Unesco World Heritage list because of their ecological value and geographic uniqueness. Arriving by air gives a perfect bird’s eye view of this natural beauty. It’s also a very easy introduction back into the world of international travel - the flight time is just three hours from New Zealand.
As well as the vastness of its reef system, New Caledonia has more than 18,000sq km of wildly differing landscapes to explore. That’s about 17,700 too many for me to tackle on this short break, so instead my trip takes me to the French-flavoured capital, Noumea, and the idyllic Ile des Pins, a tropical gem off the southern coast of Grande Terre (the mainland).
Driving to the capital from the international airport (a trip of 40 minutes or so) is an introduction to the variety of the country: rolling green pastureland reminiscent of New Zealand, and exotic vegetation that places you firmly in the tropics.
And the sense of two worlds meeting is just as strong in Noumea itself, where the indigenous Melanesian Kanak culture has blended with the French colonial influence. Although Captain James Cook is responsible for the island’s current name, it was the French who seized the territory in the 1850s with the aim of establishing a penal colony. The usual unhappy colonial history then unfolded, with the original inhabitants unsurprisingly losing out to the invading power. What is perhaps unusual is that a series of 21st century referenda on independence have resulted in a majority of the population opting to remain a part of France, despite the Kanaks making up 44 per cent of the population.
Noumea today displays both of its dominant cultures proudly, with fine examples of French colonial architecture and modern bars, cafes and restaurants mingling with exciting Pacific fare in its town markets. The main town market is Port Moselle, by the marina, where the sights and smells of local fruits and seafood can be overwhelming. Open from 5am to 11am Tuesday to Sunday, Port Moselle is a great spot to browse stalls selling local handicrafts and souvenirs, as well as feasting on delicious French patisseries. Get there early for the freshest baked treats.
Outside Noumea, to the north and east of Grande Terre, the Kanak influence is stronger, but if, like me, you don’t have the time to travel into the hinterland yet want to experience more of Kanak culture, then a trip to the Tjibaou Cultural Centre is a must.
Only a few kilometres east of Noumea, the Cultural Centre was built in the 1990s to bring together and showcase the Kanak culture and identity. On a peninsula reaching out into the lagoon, 10 imposing structures designed to represent local huts loom over three villages. Local arts, crafts, documents and exhibits are on show, alongside a multitude of cultural performances. If you plan to visit, allow at least half a day to absorb the experiences that have been gathered here from all around the country.
And Noumea has another treat in store for the short-stay traveller: the Aquarium des Lagons in Anse Vata Bay. Anse Vata is Noumea’s prime beachfront - a golden bay lined by the Roger-Laroque promenade, hosting hotels, bars, restaurants and clubs….and a world-class aquarium.
Aquarium des Lagons aims to give you a taste of all the massive reef system’s features, without having to swim for kilometres. Here you’ll find marine creatures living in tanks that mimic their natural environment - from glorious coloured tropical fish to sea turtles and the amazing nautilus. Time your visit for fish and turtle feeding, which takes place at 10.30am and 3pm.
The aquarium is also famous for its corals: it’s home to the oldest cultivated coral in the world (65 years old) and the truly bizarre neon coral that lights up like a street sign (no one’s quite sure why).
Hungry yet? New Caledonia, like many other French Pacific territories, has a bit of a reputation for being expensive - especially when it comes to eating out - but the trick is to do your research (or get tips from the locals). The best food I had in Noumea came from two smaller bistros not found on any typical “Best Restaurants of Noumea” list - they don’t even have their own websites.
Café Del Pap’s, nestled amongst university housing on the Nouville Peninsula, just west of the port, is an ideal spot for lunch to take in the views across the bays and back towards the city centre.
A popular spot with locals, but somehow left off the tourist “it” list is Le 12 Glasser. If there was one souvenir I’d want to bring home with me it would be this cosy little wine and tapas bar, neatly tucked into the back streets somewhere between Anse Vata and Baie des Citrons. The term “tapas” should not be taken literally here - portion sizes are fit for giants.
New Caledonia is an archipelago, with the three Loyalty Islands lying off the east coast of Grande Terre and the jewel-like Ile des Pins lazing in the southern lagoon.
Cook named the island for its stands of New Caledonia or Araucaria Pines, demonstrating a blunt Yorkshireman’s command of the obvious. Still, it’s hard to find fault with the explorer’s imagination - or lack thereof - when the majestic trees dominate the golden bays of the island, giving the modern tourist virtually the same view.
Although Ile des Pins is only a short 20-minute flight from Noumea, its main tourist income in the past has come from the cruise industry, which is still recovering as we emerge from the Covid pandemic. What this means for today’s lucky traveller is that exquisite beaches and bays like Gadji, with its sacred coral islands seemingly floating in the lagoon, are much quieter right now than pre-2020. If you’ve ever yearned to follow in the footsteps of Robinson Crusoe, this is the time and place.
You mustn’t miss the island’s greatest natural treat: a swim in the natural pool at Oro Bay, where you share the crystal water with shoals of reef fish - and for the moment, not so many tourists. From here you can follow a picturesque river inlet for about 15 minutes to Le Meridien Ile des Pins, where I stayed - a simply stunning resort in a picture-perfect location.
A guided tour around the island will get you to most of the breathtakingly beautiful bays - adjacent to one another, are Kuto and Kanumera, the latter hosting a wonderful array of underwater delights. Make sure you take snorkelling gear.
GETTING THERE
Aircalin flies direct from Auckland to Noumea, with connecting flights to Ile des Pins available with Air Caledonie as part of a new codeshare agreement.
DETAILS
For more things to see and do, visit newcaledonia.travel
The chef chats to Herald Travel about unforgettable foodie experiences in Aotearoa.