Our proud local guide is keen to show us more of this fascinating part of Oregon so we head 10 minutes down the road to pretty Newport. Before getting into the town itself, we stop by Bike Newport for some fat-tyre biking on stunning Nye Beach.
Our guides for the day are three guys in their 60s and 70s so I'm pretty embarrassed at how much more competent than me they are. Fortunately they are true American gentlemen and very helpful as we get the hang of riding on the sand. The golden surface is smooth and hard and the beach vast so it doesn't take too long to get in sync. The proportions of the "fat tyres" and style of bike make me feel like a kid on a BMX and the spectacular views of endless sleek shore with rolling waves in the afternoon light makes me feel like nothing bad could be happening anywhere in the world, ever.
It's tiring work riding a good expanse of the beach so we head back to Newport for a beer at Nana's Irish pub. We have a little time before dinner so it would be rude not to poke around the shops in this gorgeous boutiquey seaside town. We try the local specialities of salt-water taffy and caramel corn — classic American seaside treats.
Our walk down to dinner incites a gasp and a sharp intake of breath as we arrive at the wharf outside Local Ocean restaurant. The scene is postcard perfect as the sun sets in brilliant pinks and purples over this fishing town, dozens of crab boats bobbing next to the pier framed by the Yaquina Bay bridge in the background. I linger as the scene is so picturesque and the seals barking in background adds an extra level of joy.
Once we finally tear ourselves away, we realise we can still observe this magnificent vista from our table at the restaurant. Better still, with a glass of wine and Dungeness Crab cakes from crabs caught on the boats outside. Our guide has been raving about them and she's right, they are ridiculously good, as are the steamer clams, oysters and other local delicacies. We do the menu true justice between our group and waddle out back to our accommodation at the Hallmark Resort. Every room looks out on to Nye Beach and I drift off to sleep with the curtains open, fire on, watching the waves roll in.
It's tough leaving this charming part of coastal Oregon the next day but there's so much more of the state to see and Crater Lake, Bend and Smith Rock await. The blow is softened slightly by a visit to Oregon Oyster Farms on the way out where we taste the biggest oysters we've ever clapped eyes on. The owner regales us with tales of how they got to supply the oyster bar in New York's Grand Central Station and we watch some seriously speedy shucking. As a seafood lover, this is my happy place as I eat fried oysters on the pier with a view of the calm water of the oyster farm.
Newport has charm and character in spades and I could totally imagine being here on a family holiday. Slow, relaxed and easy breezy, once again a pocket of Oregon has well and truly stolen my heart - beautiful beaches, gorgeous township, great food and stunning bay views. What more could anyone want?
IF YOU GO
Getting there: United Airlines offers a seasonal service between Auckland and San Francisco, with connections from San Francisco to Portland. Newport is a 2.5-hour drive from Portland airport.
Staying there: Hallmark Resort, Newport. Super friendly service and every room with a beach view.
Eating there: Don't leave without trying the crab cakes from Local Ocean and Mo's Restaurant has a reputation for the best seafood chowder for miles.
Further information:
• discovernewport.com
• traveloregon.com/cities-regions/oregon-coast/newport
