On track in the Outback

The Birdsville Races are the biggest in the Outback, and one of the oldest. This year they celebrate 125 years of meetings.

But before we get ahead of ourselves, where the bloody hell is Birdsville? Most people in Australia probably couldn't even tell you - apart from it being miles from anywhere - so New Zealanders have little chance of answering.

Let me set the scene: Birdsville is a small town, huddled on the windswept floodplain of the Diamantina River in southwestern Queensland, wedged firmly between the drifting sand hills of the Simpson Desert, and the desolate gibber plains of Sturts Stony Desert.

At the end of the infamous 500km unsealed Birdsville Track, the tiny town is 1600km west of Brisbane, and 1200km north of Adelaide. With a population a smidgen over 100 it's a pretty isolated place - so the back of beyond is a pretty apt description.

But come September all that changes when Birdsville is inundated with up to 6000 punters who fly, ride or drive there to be a part of this annual event.

The small airstrip out the back of the pub becomes one of the busiest in Australia for a couple of days as hundreds of planes fly in for the weekend.

Rather than fight it out with the masses camping around town, those who fly in usually just roll out their swags under the wings and set up camp right on the airstrip, ready for an early exit come Sunday morning.

The Birdsville Races is the first of three race meetings held in southwest Queensland's Channel Country as a part of the Simpson Desert Racing Carnival, which moves from Birdsville on the first weekend of September, to Bedourie the next weekend, before bringing the uninhabited ghost town of Betoota to life the third weekend.

There is $1 million in prize money up for grabs and the only place to bet is on the track. Regulars reckon the only way to win is to get down there early, work your way around the betting circle, keep your eyes on the bookies ... then dive in and pick a winner.

The 13-race programme at this year's Birdsville Races, includes the coveted VB Open, and the world famous XXXX Gold Birdsville Cup, so you'll have plenty of opportunities to celebrate in style (or else drown your sorrows) at the iconic Birdsville Hotel.

The Queensland Variety Bash starts the fun this year, when 500 madcap adventurers in lovingly restored jalopies will roll into town after their annual pilgrimage across the country.

This year's tour, leaving Cairns on August 21, has been christened the Reef to Races (or from the Wide Blue to the Wild West).

It heads north to Cooktown, then winds its way down through such Outback icons as Julia Creek, Longreach and Boulia before arriving in Birdsville in time for the festivities.

Another drawcard for the race week is Fred Brophy and his travelling boxing troupe, who cannot be missed.

Fred starts the night standing on stage and banging his big drum: "Roll up, roll up!"

As the crowd slowly builds, a volatile combination of alcohol, pride and a large dose of peer pressure means punters take the opportunity to test their mettle over three rounds against the pros in Fred's troupe.

There'll be plenty of live music and entertainment at the local hall, fire-twirling and bongos at the Big Red Cafe, and DJ music at the Birdsville Hotel playing well into the early hours. Heaps of markets and food stalls operate through the week.

Unofficial entertainment is provided from Sunday onwards as everyone gathers at Big Red, the first of the many spectacular sand dunes of the Simpson Desert, to cheer on the 4WD vehicles continuing their Outback adventure or heading home via the desert route.

This year, corporate tents have also been introduced to the races. Each tent will give 40 race-goers a prime viewing position and precious shade.

Every year Birdsville also celebrates the finest in racing style with the Akubra Fashions in the Field. To help to mark the 125th anniversary, this year's fashion theme is vintage.

Judges will look for period costumes that reflect the history of racing in the Outback, so if you're thinking of heading over, pack bonnets and bowler hats, pocket watches and pinafores.

Or, failing that, brush up on your boxing and enjoy the pleasure of giving an Aussie a smack.

* For further information see links below.