Casey McDonald, head chef at Hawke's Bay's Craggy Range. Photo / Hawke's Bay Tourism
Hawke's Bay celebrates its Summer FAWC festival at the end of this month but the great dining is available year-round, writes Anna King Shahab
A weekend of wining and dining in Hawke's Bay proved all hits and no misses – the folks both front of house and behind the scenes in the region's hospitality scene are polished professionals who don't miss a beat – and they're working with some of the best raw product there is.
An early morning arrival in Napier afforded us the chance to get our first caffeine hit of the day at perennial favourite F.G. Smith. As our flat whites arrived I noticed the famous ham and cheese scrolls starting to fill the cabinet so we nabbed one... we noticed they do disappear quickly thanks to a steady stream of regulars who seem to know the exact time these savoury delights are coming out of the oven (hot tip: 8am). Light, fluffy scone dough oozed with melted cheese and salty ham – at first bite, I melted into the arms of the Bay.
Lunchtime on a Friday at Havelock North's Malo means dozens of locals – tables of friends and colleagues chattering away happily. We went for zesty, robust flavours, which this kitchen aces. Kingfish crudo came with cucumber, orange, and gochujang, chicken flatbread was loaded with punchy fresh herbs and capers, and prawn linguine bore the spicy kick of 'nduja which coats the strands of pasta like a pro. An Icarus mocktail, gently fizzing with layers of tart citrus, and local brewery Brave's Tigermilk IPA were a brilliant match for this food.
Having realised we had friends also staying in Napier's Masonic Hotel at the same time as us, we arranged to meet for cocktail hour at the hotel bar, Emporium. The cocktail list is impressive, with handy notes on style; I couldn't go past the description of "sherbet, nutty, tall" – a take on gin and juice with hemp gin, mandarin leaf, citric solution, mandarin syrup, absinthe, and olive oil.
A wander up the road took us to our dinner booking at Central Fire Station, and we were soon enveloped in the warmly lit, elegant but stylish dining room. Co-owners, couple Sam Clark and Florencia Menehem are head chef and pastry chef respectively. The menu read in quite a straightforward, classic bistro way, with French and Italian touches – but what turned up on the plates was cleverer, with twists in both flavours and textures to keep things exciting. A venison tartare came with harissa mayo and pickled carrot, which lifted the flavours to new heights. Continuing the iron-rich theme, my Te Mana lamb rack and rump, served with almond, 'nduja (it's trending, and I'm here for it), and charred cabbage was quite simply the best dish of lamb I ate all last year – lamb with superb flavour and texture that was cooked perfectly. Scarlet, who served us, was a star – completely across the intricacies of the food menu and aced the wine recommendations.
I get FOMO if travel dates don't allow me to visit the local farmers' market wherever in the country I may be – but particularly here because Hawke's Bay Farmers' Market is one of the country's very best. A visit is the best way to get your head around what's grown, raised, and made in the region by small-scale producers. Wandering around munching on Holly Bacon rolls, we filled a bag to heaving with goodies to take back home: loaves and crackers from OMG, freeze-dried feijoas, vintage cheddar from biodynamic dairy Hōhepa, fig salami and molasses from Te Mata Figs, juicy Telegraph Hill olives, and Blackfoot Paua XO Sauce by Good Chow.
Another local favourite, Black Barn Bistro was completely packed for Sunday lunch, but its confident waitstaff and finely tuned kitchen meant an impeccable experience. Outside, the rows of vibrant green vines glistened, while our table filled up with tasty dishes: crunchy lettuce filled with buttermilk and pangrattato, raw kingfish with pickled kishu mandarin and oyster cream, twice-baked cheese souffle, and gemelli pasta smothered with shaved black truffles. But whatever you do, make sure you nab at least one item from the snack menu to start with – we had a crisp fried potato cake piled with steak tartare and bone marrow, and blanketed in shaved truffle and cured egg yolk.
Hooray for Craggy Range being open seven days a week – a long, leisurely lunch there made a Monday feel really quite magic and was a superb send-off from the region. It's always a treat to see what's being grown in the onsite garden, and staff, like our server, Will, can tell you as much or as little about it as you wish to know.
The beautifully illustrated menu lists what's currently being harvested as well as listing all the local suppliers the kitchen works with; check it out online in advance of a booking and get excited, because head chef Casey McDonald does such stunning things with the bounty. Things kicked off with wonderfully springy potato focaccia, which came with camembert-churned butter, Arataki Honey, and salt from Ocean Beach. There was more cured kingfish (another hot item I'm very much here for) with persimmon, citrus oil, and horseradish, and then pan-fried fish piled with a salad of tender squid and brussels sprouts, doused in the best-ever hollandaise, and resting on a bed of roasted yams that made me forgive that root veg for long having forsaken it. Of course, all the Craggy Range wine matches were stunning.
It was a long weekend of what could only be described as gluttony – but I wouldn't change a thing.
DETAILS
Summer FAWC (Food and Wine Classic) takes place from January 28-February 6, with events at venues across the region. fawc.co.nz
For things to see, do and eat year-round, see hawkesbaynz.com
Check current traffic light settings, vaccine requirements and Ministry of Health advice before travel. covid19.govt.nz
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