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Home / Travel

Not just for the birds

2 Aug, 2004 04:09 AM5 mins to read

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By JIM EAGLES

It's the seafood, the kai moana, which attracts all the visitors to Kaiaua. Seabirds fly as much as 12,000km to feast on the rich tidal flats on the adjacent Firth of Thames. And Jafas in the know drive an hour to feast on some of the country's finest fish and chips at Kaiaua Fisheries - and maybe to enjoy the birds, seascapes, bushclad hills and hot pools while they're about it.

The birds have known about place for aeons - which is why it's called the Seabird Coast - but Jafas are only just starting to discover the attractions of an area on the coast which is less than hour from most of Auckland.

The visiting birds spend most of the day scattered along the tidal flats, pottering along the edge of the water, stepping elegantly across the mud, delicately spearing tasty morsels, filling their beaks with goodies. But at high tide, the cool place for them to hang out is the area of ponds and shellbanks at Miranda. At times there are thousands of birds sitting in neat rows on the shellbanks like so many uniformed soldiers, or swooping in vast flocks over the ponds like a trainee airforce.

Depending on the season, you may see bartailed godwits and red knots all the way from Siberia, aristocratic eastern curlews with their impossibly long beaks, elegant royal spoonbills, wrybills with their amazing sideways beaks, graceful white herons, nippy little New Zealand dotterels and nuggety black-capped caspian terns.

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Call in at the Miranda Shorebird Centre and they'll point you in the right direction and give you an indication what birds are around.

Humans, on the other hand, are most commonly seen on summer afternoons circling and squawking outside Kaiaua Fisheries while they wait for a feed of fish and chips.

But, rather like the birds, they can also be found scattered along the coastline, often swimming, walking, catching fish or just enjoying the views of the sea and the tidal flats framed by the bush-clad hills of the Hunua range and the Coromandel Peninsula.

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Some of their most popular roosting spots are:

* The Bay View Hotel, next-door to the fish and chip shop - a pleasant watering hole with a great beer garden in summer.

* The Dragon's Nest Pottery in Waharau - home of some delightful dragons with sinuous necks and sly smiles.

* Mangatangi Dam, the largest earth dam in the Southern Hemisphere - a beautiful spot for a picnic (although you'll need a permit to fish for its trout).

* Tapapakanga and Waharau Regional Parks - great places for bush walking, swimming, fishing and camping, and the Maori carving at the entrance to Tapapakanga is well worth a special look.

* Miranda Hot Springs - a huge hot pool, with an associated holiday park, which is particularly nice to visit at this time of year.

* The old Country Store in Waitakaruru (I've always liked the feel of Waitakaruru on the tongue: it means stagnant water or, more literally, water into which a morepork fell) - a magnificent collection of Kiwiana where you can easily spend an hour or so checking out everything from vinyl records to rusty saws and from kauri furniture to Staffordshire pottery.

And there are plenty of places besides the fish and chip shop where you can gather seafood.

Pacific oysters grow naturally on much of the coast or you can nip into Clevedon Oysters, just north of Kawakawa Bay, and buy a pot of fat commercially grown oysters.

At the Kaiaua gravel pits, part of a quarry run by Stevensons, you'll often see coarse fishing enthusiasts - it's the fish that are coarse, not necessarily the anglers - lined up in pursuit of koi carp, tench, rudd and quite large perch (though you need a permit if you want to join them).

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Anglers who prefer something edible tend to hang around Matingarahi, where you can launch boats off the shingle, or the Kaiaua Boating Club, which has a ramp and a mini-marina just opposite the hotel.

Most of the migrating humans seem to flock home in the evenings, but for anyone wanting to stay a good choice is the Kaiaua Seaside Lodge run by Fran Joseph and Denis Martinovich.

The lodge is in a beautiful spot running down to the sea and Denis is eager for any excuse to get his lovely old Fergie tractor out and launch his boat off the end of the section to go fishing.

For an evening meal you can't do better than the restaurant attached to the fish and chip shop (the pan-fried lemon pepper snapper is unbelievable).

But the speciality of the lodge is an early-morning fishing trip to catch breakfast.

The bang on the door in pitch darkness is not necessarily welcome, nor is the wait in icy water holding the boat if the tractor proves temperamental. But when the sun comes up over the Coromandel and the snapper start biting, it's a magical world.

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And afterwards, well, bacon and eggs are all very nice, but I can assure you there's nothing better than Fran's snapper, cooked about 15 minutes after it was caught.

* Jim Eagles paid his own way to Kaiaua and liked the place so much he bought a bach there.

Getting there Several routes take you to the Seabird Coast, but my favourite from Auckland is: zip south down the motorway and take the road to Tauranga; follow that until the turnoff to Thames and keep going until you hit Waitakaruru; turn north and take the coast road through Miranda, Kaiaua and Kawakawa Bay to Clevedon; then head for Manurewa or Papakura and you're back on the motorway after a pleasant drive through bush, coast and farmland.

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